tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-42533076842938179172024-02-19T17:54:51.763-08:00SDR for Mariners Moved to radioforeveryone.comAkoshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04062652939032964739noreply@blogger.comBlogger17125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4253307684293817917.post-40810014522099129082016-02-19T05:36:00.001-08:002016-02-19T05:45:50.380-08:00Moved to new address: rtlsdr4everyone.blogspot.com<span style="font-size: large;">Blog moved to new address:</span><br />
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<b><span style="font-size: x-large;">rtlsdr4everyone.blogspot.com</span></b><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">All traffic should be automatically redirected in a few seconds.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Individual pages should redirect to new blog address.</span><br />
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<br />Akoshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04062652939032964739noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4253307684293817917.post-65340694400807935832014-03-08T19:32:00.000-08:002016-02-25T13:47:12.075-08:00Coax cable loss<meta content='3;URL=http://rtlsdr4everyone.blogspot.ie/p/coax-cable-loss.html ' http-equiv='refresh'/>
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Antennas receive the signal, receiver makes it understandable. Between these two</b> coax cable carries said signal, which gets more and more tired the further it travels (coax length) and the bumpier the road (coax quality). </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Being tired means you lose energy, so poor signal cannot tell you all the information.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Less info is called signal loss</b>, how much depends on coax cable quality and length, </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;"><b>To improve a signal you can:</b></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">1) Decrease the length of coax cable - less travel, more signal</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">2) Improve coax cable quality</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">3) Add a preamplifier - this is like an energy drink to signal</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">How to calculate signal loss</span></h3>
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Coax cable loss increases with frequency.</b> Online resources give this loss in decibels, which is logarithmic, so 3 dB is half the power - transmitting or receiving makes no difference. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Decibels and logarithmic stuff is complicated,</b> so measure the </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://www.net-comber.com/cable-loss.html" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;" target="_blank"><img alt="Coax cable loss, attenuation, RTL-SDR, RTL, SDR, AIS, Marine, sdrformariners, SDRSharp, improve reception, VHF, marine, yacht, sailing" border="0" height="196" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzSYsqJuVm-869ZogRIwKZq0fSqMV-JSkeix3LjinWvbdb2GI_b7uch4t3EbAXT9fWLPQhlGM5J6y8E9LwkS95J80VsCVDFc4mxlDBORwhf2QGhhJnMXmym352oyNLTHDOq9E_PxT0hmc/s1600/Attenuation+per+length.jpg" title="Attenuation per metre" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-size: large;">length of coax cable, note the writing on it and google this plus "attenuation". Attenuation means weakening of signal in radio speak. So if writing says RG 6, google "RG 6 attenuation". </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Get a <a href="http://www.net-comber.com/cable-loss.html" target="_blank">decibel figure with this online calculator</a>. Enter values on top - results in feet will be on the left, meters on the right, you get a figure in decibels.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">To understand decibels in a "this is how much percent of info reaches my receiver ", <a href="http://www.sengpielaudio.com/calculator-db.htm" target="_blank">use this online calculator</a>. It simply converts decibel to understandable percentages, with 1 being 100 % of signal received at the antenna.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTasiuCaOHZMft_S6BBtwLuSjYJfSVm7VfS9meMhR8SuCsDLJwaGryBj8AX69892UHOOvSJ4tGRpphbsCO154D8C3GAjWVUMDGg4PHo0YiVslaAVuv1C1Eju3pyJ7CuaefcGKfArI1EDE/s1600/Calculate+decibels.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Coax cable loss, attenuation, RTL-SDR, RTL, SDR, AIS, Marine, sdrformariners, SDRSharp, improve reception, VHF, marine, yacht, sailing" border="0" height="125" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTasiuCaOHZMft_S6BBtwLuSjYJfSVm7VfS9meMhR8SuCsDLJwaGryBj8AX69892UHOOvSJ4tGRpphbsCO154D8C3GAjWVUMDGg4PHo0YiVslaAVuv1C1Eju3pyJ7CuaefcGKfArI1EDE/s1600/Calculate+decibels.jpg" title="Decibel calculator " width="320" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-size: large;">Enter number to the left of dB with a minus sign, select energy size on the right, then press calculate. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">For example, common RG 58</span><span style="font-size: large;"> used at sea in 20 metres 4.4 dB is lost: only 36 percent of signal reaches the receiver.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Decrease the length of coax cable</span></h3>
<b style="font-size: x-large;"><br /></b><b style="font-size: x-large;">More length = more loss.</b><br />
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<b style="font-size: x-large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih-USUkrCRGlxiIZWiLFhvbFvf17yeS_Ad8NfB1PGD2CudWxMG6q1JfzavtYIhnpSB36el5FrU8LQi1pCMLW_SEOPNhw1VKwul2lUhQEEE7WQjGy8Ms40Mwgjec8Vo72fqYZgQ-6S8NsQ/s1600/Coax+lengths+comparison.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Coax cable loss, attenuation, RTL-SDR, RTL, SDR, AIS, Marine, sdrformariners, SDRSharp, improve reception, VHF, marine, yacht, sailing" border="0" height="297" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih-USUkrCRGlxiIZWiLFhvbFvf17yeS_Ad8NfB1PGD2CudWxMG6q1JfzavtYIhnpSB36el5FrU8LQi1pCMLW_SEOPNhw1VKwul2lUhQEEE7WQjGy8Ms40Mwgjec8Vo72fqYZgQ-6S8NsQ/s1600/Coax+lengths+comparison.jpg" title="Different lengths" width="320" /></a></b></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Use the minimum length</b> of coax required between antenna and receiver; excess lengths will not only lose more signal but will also pick up electrical noise.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Finding an antenna location is a compromise</b>, in an urban setting getting away from household electricity, gadget interference and TV radiation can be challenging. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>In the illustration</b> the difference between signal strengths might be small on screen, but that -2 dB means 37 percent of the signal is lost. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">2) Improve coax cable quality<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikoJplJemzj9Rz8XvL4O34Bsef-u0GyVRg1LQOw-DKZ1qOxntfPVehyphenhyphenim2MK4ZqIaXRm192A-_uwzZZvKl1n0O3phnYIVoE_5g_jz4CiQ4IGMcut9FnQLG6UEEmxWhK4yaoeg2lZGHT8c/s1600/coax+attenuation.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Coax cable loss, attenuation, RTL-SDR, RTL, SDR, AIS, Marine, sdrformariners, SDRSharp, improve reception, VHF, marine, yacht, sailing" border="0" height="236" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikoJplJemzj9Rz8XvL4O34Bsef-u0GyVRg1LQOw-DKZ1qOxntfPVehyphenhyphenim2MK4ZqIaXRm192A-_uwzZZvKl1n0O3phnYIVoE_5g_jz4CiQ4IGMcut9FnQLG6UEEmxWhK4yaoeg2lZGHT8c/s1600/coax+attenuation.jpg" title="RG 58 vs LMR 400" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Better coax will lose less signal.</b> Four times less loss is four times the cost, so selecting a cable is entirely up to your budget.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>LMR-400 is commonly used,</b> which is the upper limit in terms of cost and flexibility for mortal souls. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Performance improvents</b> will be only realized with long cable runs, and / or high frequency applications, or if the antenna is used for mission-critical applications e.g. transmission line for life-saving equipment such as mounted VHF on yachts. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Check the table</b> to see the LMR-400 has much lower dB loss figures - but performance comes at a price. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Use a preamp<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSo_HfbzTfVUSEuJNMycajLYgmzl91LdUKZQGQlTR4Dqw8F5UAJ1oTMRMBkx4CuuRcm10O-0IUEQG4l5OAUIePo974gkWuWa87x_BTUYWkQKu8vWfoqI-9t0S-REke_Gm_RfKqUiG50Jc/s1600/LNA+Board+original.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Coax cable loss, attenuation, RTL-SDR, RTL, SDR, AIS, Marine, sdrformariners, SDRSharp, improve reception, VHF, marine, yacht, sailing" border="0" height="217" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSo_HfbzTfVUSEuJNMycajLYgmzl91LdUKZQGQlTR4Dqw8F5UAJ1oTMRMBkx4CuuRcm10O-0IUEQG4l5OAUIePo974gkWuWa87x_BTUYWkQKu8vWfoqI-9t0S-REke_Gm_RfKqUiG50Jc/s1600/LNA+Board+original.JPG" title="LNA4ALL" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;"><b>For receive - only applications</b> mount a preamp at the antenna to overcome long lengths of coax cable signal loss. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Punters seeking signals</b> above 800 MHZ - such as monitoring trunked emergency comms in the States - or ADSB enthusiasts hunting 1090 MHz will need a preamp with cable runs over 30 feet / 10 metres. Most of these require line of sight / unobstructed view of surrounding terrain hence necessitate long cables to mount antenna on top of the house.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Sailing vessels</b> with antenna on top of the mast are better off using a<a href="http://sdrformariners.blogspot.ie/p/summary-buy-one-works-as-advertised.html" target="_blank"> LNA4ALL</a> powered by nav lights as with tall masts and corresponding excessive cable runs signal loss will be horrendous.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Significance in marine applications<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYA3xAxao7N3JQjLExVLfl7_yuxV9_qzOkOSgy6LpXMwmIb_DaXt1rJUBVXVbzyEg1M4DLxUrawCsBhO9xOGs24Gj7Xpujpne9ZsE60sGiy6lp6KAtM6ef1ym3FiVO6soWo_MgvyVdpH0/s1600/bavaria+distances.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Coax cable loss, attenuation, RTL-SDR, RTL, SDR, AIS, Marine, sdrformariners, SDRSharp, improve reception, VHF, marine, yacht, sailing" border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYA3xAxao7N3JQjLExVLfl7_yuxV9_qzOkOSgy6LpXMwmIb_DaXt1rJUBVXVbzyEg1M4DLxUrawCsBhO9xOGs24Gj7Xpujpne9ZsE60sGiy6lp6KAtM6ef1ym3FiVO6soWo_MgvyVdpH0/s1600/bavaria+distances.jpg" title="Coax cable runs Mast vs Aft cockpit" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Highest point on a vessel, usually mast top </b>is the traditional home of antennas, antenna is normally a stainless steel whip.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Antenna higher up</b> - better range due to increased <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Line-of-sight_propagation" target="_blank">line of sight</a>. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Mast height increases</b> with length, Bavaria range as an example, mast heights from waterline in metres:</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Cruiser 33</b> - 14.8 m, <b>Cruiser 37</b> - 16.8 m, <b>Cruiser 41</b> - 18.6 m, <b>Cruiser 45</b> - 20.7 m</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;"><b>33 feet / 11 metres</b> is a popular length for a sailing yacht, use that as an example: to top of mast cable run from navigation station is around 18 metres, to aft rail, cable run is 4 metres.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Cockpit rail mounting</b> enables short lengths of coax to be used, so less signal is lost. And climbing the mast is not easy...</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Commercial marine antennas</b> are normally <a href="http://www.chmarine.com/acatalog/V-Tronix_Marine_VHF_Aerials.html" target="_blank">sold with 20m RG 58 coax cable</a>. I phoned chandleries in Ireland and the UK, RG 58 is the most commonly available "radio cable". </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">My deepest respect to the few exceptions, but all sellers I've talked with offering life-saving equipment seem to have no clue about technical aspects of radio. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Notable exception is <a href="http://www.nevadaradio.co.uk/%E2%80%8E" target="_blank">Nevada Radio</a>, a well-known ham dealer also selling marine gear, whom I can recommend for excellent and knowledgeable customer service (no affiliation with them).</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Signal loss also affects transmitters,</b> using the above example of 20 metres of RG 58 coax, your 25 W mounted VHF becomes a 9W transmitter. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Note that it is more than enough to establish communications, but results can be improved by using LMR-400.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;"><b>If you wish to have AIS on board</b>, based on RTL-SDR, use the aft rail to mount the antenna. Less signal loss, less cable required, less hassle and unnecessary to climb the mast - no bruises.</span><br />
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</h3>Akoshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04062652939032964739noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4253307684293817917.post-91768814283031093702014-02-26T08:02:00.000-08:002016-02-25T13:49:06.361-08:00Antenna Performance Comparison<meta content='3;URL=http://rtlsdr4everyone.blogspot.com/p/antenna-performance-comparison.html ' http-equiv='refresh'/>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfvzobBus2RDEx4ClIhTNe6AvrNWqmsqPANxjrxcBbCGSIHLlC00S-UQCTodXmCq2sln0u60wWuPhmXGT0A-CNPwWbuuhUT98ETQY9itDcO-1cUfofDtIwlZIGTF8wngP5wkkmreoQWAA/s1600/37+Monopole+02+half+wave+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfvzobBus2RDEx4ClIhTNe6AvrNWqmsqPANxjrxcBbCGSIHLlC00S-UQCTodXmCq2sln0u60wWuPhmXGT0A-CNPwWbuuhUT98ETQY9itDcO-1cUfofDtIwlZIGTF8wngP5wkkmreoQWAA/s1600/37+Monopole+02+half+wave+copy.jpg" width="248" /></span></a><span style="font-size: large;">Selecting an antenna type is always a trade-off between size and performance - quest is finding the best antenna with the smallest footprint, ease of construction and lowest RFI / electrical noise pickup.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">What you need to know</span></h3>
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;"><b>1. Half-wave monopole is best</b> (wrap conductor around one end and you're there) with good noise characteristics.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>2. Add one (dipole) or two (as radials) elements</b> to braid to decrease noise floor in a high RFI / electrical noise environment.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>3. Materials make no difference</b>, coat hanger wire still reliably receives VHF signals.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>You will get similar results</b> on other frequencies between 100 and 1100 MHz, if you know the frequency you want to hear.</span><br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Use results here to construct an antenna for <u><i>your</i> </u>preferences.</span></b><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Importance of wavelength</span></h3>
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;"><b>A specific frequency </b>has a corresponding radio wavelength. To get the wavelength in metres, divide 300 with the frequency in question. For instance, AIS is 162 MHZ, so the wavelength will be 300 divided by 162 = 1.85 metres. Calculations are the same for other frequencies.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Common marine antennas</b> are 0.9 metres, (half-wave) 1.8 metres (full-wave) or 0.45 metres (1/4th wave). Other variations exist such as huge 5/4th wave antennas measuring 2.4 metres, which are solely the domain of larger vessels such as motor yachts and ships.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Antenna types tested</b> are for VHF and up, from broadcast radio to ADSB signals. Use info here to select an antenna for a quick and easy job, lowest noise (Half-wave with 2 radials) or a compromise for size vs performance (Quarter-wave with 2 radials).</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Strong shortwave signals</b> are possible to receive even with a rubber ducky. Weaker signals need larger antennas, but shortwave is an entirely different cup of tea.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Setup</span></h3>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>No fancy cables,</b> equipment nor noise reduction measures used to simulate a beginner setup.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Indoor location,</b> antennas taped to floor-to-ceiling windows. If you live in a condo, need a college dorm antenna, or cannot erect an outdoor version, select from the following options. Indoor vs outdoor is a separate question, for reference, comparison at the end of this post.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Nooelec RTL stick,</b> cheapest 20 feet / 6 metres RG-59 coax with no shielding, no noise reduction apart from metal removed from end of USB connector.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>SDRSharp 1.0.0.1174</b> with the excellent <a href="http://levelmeter.sub-web.de/" target="_blank">Level Meter Plugin</a>, this allows me to measure peak power easily. Same gain, cables and location for all antennas, only variable is antenna to ascertain comparative performance.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Signal: local airport info system</b>, steady signal with the same recorded voice repeated over and over again. Antennas optimised / cut using the above formulas to get full, half and quarter-wave elements.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Distance to signal</b> 2.7 nautical miles / 5 kilometres, no line of sight, signal path over electrically very noisy environment, called "city" in english.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Materials:</b> best available used, 2.5 mm diameter house grounding wire as antenna material just to be on the safe side, not that it really matters: see material comparison below.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Antenna types tested</span></h3>
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Monopole:</b> receiving element connected to center conductor. Full, Half, Quarter and 1/8th wave tested.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Dipole:</b> two elements connected, one to braid and one to center conductor. Half and Quarter Wave tested.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Two radials:</b> one element to center conductor, two to braid, forming a Peace-sign / Mercedes symbol. Half and Quarter wave tested.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Rubber Duckies:</b> common on handheld transmitters and scanners, Icom (FA-S280C, <a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-ICOM-FA-S270C-Antenna-IC-91AD-IC-E91-IC-P7A-IC-P7-IC-E7-IC-R5-IC-91A-IC-E92D-/300890674692?pt=US_Radio_Comm_Antennas&hash=item460e7b5604" target="_blank">around 20 USD</a>), Uniden (stock, <a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hand-Held-Scanner-Replacement-Antenna-BNC-VHF-UHF-Uniden-Realistic-Radio-/141201622194?pt=US_Radio_Comm_Antennas&hash=item20e045c4b2" target="_blank">around 11 USD</a>) and Baofeng (upgraded stock from UV-5B, <a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Baofeng-DualBand-Original-Antenna-for-UV-5R-UV-5RA-UV-5RB-UV-5RC-UV-5RE-/161068208109?pt=UK_Mobile_Phones_Communication_Radio_Antennas&hash=item258069cfed" target="_blank">around 13 USD</a>). <b>Adaptors</b> required to connect to BNC shown.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs59Aw3LNCh38cxiCDmn9mpGbRXOOhlFFxj1jrna2HyKu3AjxMlU2JKuKyFpnkG9P_jilHrNhR6jGhJBN92iFZ8o5zsInjDxyc1ll-9tAYLQW9TLaLKoi1ZeOjN3iZuH0oYwCV-v5U09Y/s1600/Duckies+and+Adapters.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-size: large;"><img alt="Monopole, Dipole, Radials, AIS, Rubber Ducky, Handheld antenna, performance, comparison, sdrformariners, test, review, evaluation, aerial, marine, beginner" border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs59Aw3LNCh38cxiCDmn9mpGbRXOOhlFFxj1jrna2HyKu3AjxMlU2JKuKyFpnkG9P_jilHrNhR6jGhJBN92iFZ8o5zsInjDxyc1ll-9tAYLQW9TLaLKoi1ZeOjN3iZuH0oYwCV-v5U09Y/s1600/Duckies+and+Adapters.jpg" title="Rubber Duckies and connectors" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Discone: </b>Skyscan V1300 with 12 feet / 4 metres 50 Ohm cable,<a href="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Skyscan-V1300-Full-Size-Discone-Antenna-/201039690353?pt=UK_Mobile_Phones_Communication_Radio_Antennas&hash=item2ecee63a71" target="_blank"> around 60 GBP / 72 EUR / 95 USD</a>.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Evaluating performance</b> by received audio is subjective, printscreens are not. Received signal is on the left under red vertical line, this should be as high as possible. Yellow speckles and small waves are noise, lower or less visible is better.</span><br />
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<h3>
<span style="font-size: large;">The Full Picture</span></h3>
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">If you use SDRSharp already and understand the following images, please draw your own conclusions.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Antennas organised by peak signal, gives you an idea what to expect noise-wise.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0XJaUmvWS7VJQVxX1M3pUIqxQxdq7UDhxtRK72LjVVPxYRn3x5MebPU9TMuWrGslWmwsEbVVhUpn_X666bdjZwgcVNfLKyIMBlu-Bz4ngWtFRbHEFoSCTPSA89MoSm-etSmmv9IB3gUk/s1600/_Comparison+all+typesALL.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-size: large;"><img alt="Monopole, Dipole, Radials, AIS, Rubber Ducky, Handheld antenna, performance, comparison, sdrformariners, test, review, evaluation, aerial, marine, beginner" border="0" height="331" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0XJaUmvWS7VJQVxX1M3pUIqxQxdq7UDhxtRK72LjVVPxYRn3x5MebPU9TMuWrGslWmwsEbVVhUpn_X666bdjZwgcVNfLKyIMBlu-Bz4ngWtFRbHEFoSCTPSA89MoSm-etSmmv9IB3gUk/s1600/_Comparison+all+typesALL.jpg" title="Performance comparison - All Antennas" width="640" /></span></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Quater-wave dipole</b> and half-wave monopole same length, dipole needs twice as much (two) electrical connections. The single greatest cause of electrical problems at sea is connectors, hence the monopole recommendation.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Monopole - stock</b> is the supplied telescopic antenna that comes with the RTL stick.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Ducky</b> refers to rubber duckies, separate comparison against a monopole below.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Full-wavelength antennas</b> in any form will be a challenge to mount, as 1.8 metres for marine band (156-162 MHz), and 2.5 metres total length for airband (118-134 MHz).</span><br />
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<h3>
<span style="font-size: large;">Adding elements to braid</span></h3>
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Adding one or two elements (same length of wire as receiving wire) to braid reduces noise pickup, resulting in better signal-to-noise ratio.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiE8CfxZW614UGtnzRQtKGG2Qe6qvlVR1OeGMYuC2pchoKHgWdTrr1pvPxMTYMJnZ-YKK47xwA-J-5-MRYFps5c-DW2lwsW16OLonNS-9tFHttd1T_d7AU2LoeTYWmPuVHq9fBwmVJwxU/s1600/_Comparison+adding+elements.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-size: large;"><img alt="Monopole, Dipole, Radials, AIS, Rubber Ducky, Handheld antenna, performance, comparison, sdrformariners, test, review, evaluation, aerial, marine, beginner" border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiE8CfxZW614UGtnzRQtKGG2Qe6qvlVR1OeGMYuC2pchoKHgWdTrr1pvPxMTYMJnZ-YKK47xwA-J-5-MRYFps5c-DW2lwsW16OLonNS-9tFHttd1T_d7AU2LoeTYWmPuVHq9fBwmVJwxU/s1600/_Comparison+adding+elements.jpg" title="Adding elements" width="617" /></span></a></div>
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<h3>
<span style="font-size: large;">Rubber Duckies</span></h3>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Common on transceivers,</b> noise pickup is significant in an urban environment. Included here for reference, recent testing confirmed previous findings (See Marine AIS antenna post above) that with antenna at 3-4 metres above sea level e.g. cockpit mounting reliably picks up AIS signals out to around 3-4 nm.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Compared to</b> a simple half-wave antenna the performance difference is striking, the lower noise floor is evident side-by-side.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXZCeCnHp1Zvlp5cttkTLkUDJfMs2dH3F7yG1_GjeTMweoY3NIio6_Bl7zKCklfjBgn7XRfKJoSR0mkCiGESf4aJJFkTp2bMeWH5eqVmirn5wVTdiMXpi_imaPbIDcyaxD-G8z4CTv1os/s1600/_Comparison+monopole+vs+Rubber+duckies.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-size: large;"><img alt="Monopole, Dipole, Radials, AIS, Rubber Ducky, Handheld antenna, performance, comparison, sdrformariners, test, review, evaluation, aerial, marine, beginner" border="0" height="251" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXZCeCnHp1Zvlp5cttkTLkUDJfMs2dH3F7yG1_GjeTMweoY3NIio6_Bl7zKCklfjBgn7XRfKJoSR0mkCiGESf4aJJFkTp2bMeWH5eqVmirn5wVTdiMXpi_imaPbIDcyaxD-G8z4CTv1os/s1600/_Comparison+monopole+vs+Rubber+duckies.jpg" title="Monopole vs Rubber Duckies" width="640" /></span></a></div>
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<h3>
<span style="font-size: large;">Indoor vs Outdoor</span></h3>
<div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>All antennas </b>taped to a window: this 1) simulates common scenario when you can not erect an antenna outside, and 2) heavy rain and gale force winds outdoors.</span><br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Here's a direct comparison with a discone:</span></b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-1R8o5P_1IYluO1l61rePwoiADv7Kw9GwWY5hjHERkjUgJ3r5SScN9heUIM8D0YOX26iVj_YLjPfKi0HlNC2E83fBAP12p22m-lg7oTJeFqwC4ayvdvgELqAalU6eilmzQot7wYL0GxQ/s1600/_+Comparison+Indoor+vs+Outdoor.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-size: large;"><img alt="Monopole, Dipole, Radials, AIS, Rubber Ducky, Handheld antenna, performance, comparison, sdrformariners, test, review, evaluation, aerial, marine, beginner" border="0" height="507" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-1R8o5P_1IYluO1l61rePwoiADv7Kw9GwWY5hjHERkjUgJ3r5SScN9heUIM8D0YOX26iVj_YLjPfKi0HlNC2E83fBAP12p22m-lg7oTJeFqwC4ayvdvgELqAalU6eilmzQot7wYL0GxQ/s1600/_+Comparison+Indoor+vs+Outdoor.jpg" title="Discone Indoor vs Outdoor" width="640" /></span></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;"><b>1. Outdoor means</b> antenna 1 metres from window. 10 dB increase visible means 100 times more signal received.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>2. All antennas, especially discones</b>, should be outdoors. The concept of an indoor discone is a heavy compromise, buying a 100-dollar antenna then placing it in the corner is pointless.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>3. If you cannot have</b> an outdoor antenna, add two radials and tape antenna to window. Lower noise floor than a discone, better signal-to-noise ratio.</span><br />
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<h3>
<span style="font-size: large;">Materials</span></h3>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtsMKMcsUvzbJRfCbjgVenwjwz1hWUMkSdi90M2b5D2wzAzvKBbNgZFQm-AuzPisdMGf4oPNZaTLNlGfAdY3aJ3n4PloyzYEsYwejb5pyBlF-KenKfeBKPPw2z8ia3vm7_DsM8eN9Ufvs/s1600/Materials.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="font-size: large;"><img alt="Monopole, Dipole, Radials, AIS, Rubber Ducky, Handheld antenna, performance, comparison, sdrformariners, test, review, evaluation, aerial, marine, beginner" border="0" height="199" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtsMKMcsUvzbJRfCbjgVenwjwz1hWUMkSdi90M2b5D2wzAzvKBbNgZFQm-AuzPisdMGf4oPNZaTLNlGfAdY3aJ3n4PloyzYEsYwejb5pyBlF-KenKfeBKPPw2z8ia3vm7_DsM8eN9Ufvs/s1600/Materials.jpg" title="Antenna Materials" width="320" /></span></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Same lengths, from top to bottom:</b> Commercial telescopic antenna with BNC connector, stock telescopic, antenna from a radio, 2.5 mm diameter solid copper grounding wire, 1 mm multi-stranded copper wire, 220 V power cable.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Click on the image below to check they aren't the same, no difference whatsoever by ear.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMr6MWsmuUnDF0U-MILgxZfRbVgl0AT__RZJS_l4JY7hTYTNUcBUMFbuJnqyCfeyhAUYj-HXmUVZ2ves1of33JiRPLkKsarFJGMNGalWCzkvzd7RWfOh_74Nm-LZgzHPWyF7TPHQNoP50/s1600/_Comparison+materials.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-size: large;"><img alt="Monopole, Dipole, Radials, AIS, Rubber Ducky, Handheld antenna, performance, comparison, sdrformariners, test, review, evaluation, aerial, marine, beginner" border="0" height="168" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMr6MWsmuUnDF0U-MILgxZfRbVgl0AT__RZJS_l4JY7hTYTNUcBUMFbuJnqyCfeyhAUYj-HXmUVZ2ves1of33JiRPLkKsarFJGMNGalWCzkvzd7RWfOh_74Nm-LZgzHPWyF7TPHQNoP50/s1600/_Comparison+materials.jpg" title="Materials Performance Comparison" width="640" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Doubtful?</b> Repeated test with quarter wave antennas from: Grounding wire, 220 V power cable, and gym locker hanger, all cut to the same size. Center conductor wrapped around wire, as basic as possible.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirLxOeKS4CD6waf8F_rQzTK3BsYcsBe2R0Cgf-i7TW8wuXZK42KpufIqKkqEFtuQu88H9-N3p6dJbiThgfMbpUYiv89lo2PwplNRGuMSYt3YthkRBCIi5P4BgyqFky01mUEbZm-6hj1iY/s1600/_+Materials+KISS.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-size: large;"><img alt="Monopole, Dipole, Radials, AIS, Rubber Ducky, Handheld antenna, performance, comparison, sdrformariners, test, review, evaluation, aerial, marine, beginner" border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirLxOeKS4CD6waf8F_rQzTK3BsYcsBe2R0Cgf-i7TW8wuXZK42KpufIqKkqEFtuQu88H9-N3p6dJbiThgfMbpUYiv89lo2PwplNRGuMSYt3YthkRBCIi5P4BgyqFky01mUEbZm-6hj1iY/s1600/_+Materials+KISS.jpg" title="KISS connections" width="252" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Note that signal height is the same in relation to noise floor, same performance on-screen and by ear.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik2aWisZYTiUu3vjYDwzHlBY-KTNer7JR7mOtF2NRvZaogcec8nKFvmZk3A0ys2zYPT1afYsfl6-b7grZtxoM1gWp5aL5hK6h9qGDKvRVdebjWsGxWvGPuZuJVKXIkTEuz9q9eiElITns/s1600/_+Materials+Half+wave+comparison.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-size: large;"><img alt="1mm multi-stranded copper wire" border="0" height="230" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik2aWisZYTiUu3vjYDwzHlBY-KTNer7JR7mOtF2NRvZaogcec8nKFvmZk3A0ys2zYPT1afYsfl6-b7grZtxoM1gWp5aL5hK6h9qGDKvRVdebjWsGxWvGPuZuJVKXIkTEuz9q9eiElITns/s1600/_+Materials+Half+wave+comparison.jpg" title="" width="640" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>Akoshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04062652939032964739noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4253307684293817917.post-32163365628740600112014-02-06T18:04:00.000-08:002016-02-25T13:50:03.329-08:00Shootout: Shortwave for 50 dollars<meta content='3;URL=http://rtlsdr4everyone.blogspot.com/p/disclaimer-purchased-all-products-in.html ' http-equiv='refresh'/>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXdi66t5sDWZnYIJo8lNqy0FQBci4kwf5RAAuPOdXuSG4WX9YGiDDcQiBQL6jflTbU1WQ1RIsIV2HjWqnrfrOFFLBIjDILNxqyC5gJEufbyRM3v8GdNJJqPfSuH-MsAOc5fxLcNobhmBs/s1600/opening.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><br /><img border="0" height="194" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXdi66t5sDWZnYIJo8lNqy0FQBci4kwf5RAAuPOdXuSG4WX9YGiDDcQiBQL6jflTbU1WQ1RIsIV2HjWqnrfrOFFLBIjDILNxqyC5gJEufbyRM3v8GdNJJqPfSuH-MsAOc5fxLcNobhmBs/s1600/opening.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<b><i>Disclaimer:</i></b> I purchased all products in this review from my own funds, no manufacturer involved.<br />
<b>Shortwave Listening</b> (SWLing for short) is still a popular pastime: a simple 50 dollar receiver and turning a dial results in a cacophony of foreign broadcasts and exotic tunes.<br />
Using a software defined radio makes finding stations easier, as you actually see the signals.<br />
An RTL-SDR and Upconverter combo is around 50-60 dollars, a mid-range portable, such as the Eton G8 can be also had for around 50-60 dollars.<br />
<b>Apples to oranges? Absolutely.</b> The RTL setup has a steeper learning curve, but rewards with more settings available to fine-tune the signal, the portable requires 3 AA batteries and your finger to find a station.<br />
<div>
<b>The real question is:</b> should you get an upconverter or a portable shortwave receiver? How to spend 50 bucks?<b> </b>Usability, portability and personal preferences aside, <u>the bottom line is: listening to shortwave stations. </u></div>
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<h3>
In the standalone corner: Eton / Grunding G8 Traveler II Digital</h3>
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A palm-sized receiver with <a href="http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/8517" target="_blank">mostly positive reviews </a>from the ham community, digital frequency readout with 1kHz tuning steps, alarm, <a href="http://www.etoncorp.com/sites/default/files/G8_Manual_052009.pdf" target="_blank">more details in the user guide</a>.<br />
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<h3>
In the Software Defined Radio corner: Ham-It-Up Upconverter from Nooelec.</h3>
<br />
Probably the most widely used upconverter, as <a href="http://blog.kf7lze.net/2012/09/14/round-up-of-rtlsdr-upconverter-choices/" target="_blank">alternatives</a> are more expensive. Same cost SDR UP 100 is out of production, and as I had good customer service from the manufacturer, I'd recommend this.<br />
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<h3>
Testing setup</h3>
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<b>Test is purely about shortwave reception capabilities, </b>so please no comments on either system's perceived advantage over the other; same money on the table after all, the rest is personal bias.<br />
<div>
<b>"SDR setup" </b>in this text refers to Nooelec RTL 2832 820T stick + Ham It Up; <b>"G8"</b> refers to the Eton / Grunding G8 Traveler II Digital.</div>
<b>Built-in antennas:</b> for indoor testing, the SDR setup has no antenna so I connected a telescopic antenna via adaptors to the ANT IN of the upconverter.<br />
<b>External antennas:</b> two identical longwires thrown outside, lengths 20 feet / 6 m. Longwire directly connected to antenna input for the SDR setup, and wrapped around the G3's telescopic antenna base. No preamp.<br />
<b>Note on antennas:</b> no-frills setup, no antenna isolators nor electrical noise reduction of any kind.<br />
<b>RFI:</b> Both receivers equal distances from laptop (same electrical noise pickup), in front of a window, wire led outside and swinging 10 feet off the ground.<br />
<b>Power:</b> Ham It Up powered by USB cable from laptop. G3 powered by three non-rechargeable AA batteries.<br />
<b>Audio setup:</b> Laptop's built-in speakers and G3's speakers equal distance from listening position. Identical sound level ensured by tuning to broadcast FM station and measuring sound pressure level at the listening location; two free apps installed on two smartphones and a tablet utilized as I have no SPL microphone, the resulting six different readings gave identical SPL levels, so any difference in audio level or quality is due to the actual receiver system.<br />
<b>Gain: </b>Gain, digital noise reduction and filter bandwidth used in SDRSharp to find best compromise between signal to noise ratio and intelligibility; no gain nor DX / local switch available on the G8.<br />
<b>Timeframe: </b>both setups tested for several days, side-by-side, night and day.<br />
<b>Your operating enviroment </b>will be different from mine; <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Radio-Tight-Budget-RTL-SDR-Everyone-ebook/dp/B00HCIPSQY/ref=sr_1_1?s=digital-text&ie=UTF8&qid=1391688288&sr=1-1&keywords=rtl+sdr" target="_blank">I devoted the largest part of my book</a> to electrical noise reduction, as 1) simplest, 2) cheapest and 3) most effective way of improving reception. No noise reduction used in this test, because using 100+ dollar worth of cables, antenna isolators, stubs, or a better antenna system will yield better results.<br />
<b>The question is:</b> should you get an upconverter or a portable shortwave receiver? How to spend 50 bucks?<br />
<b>This test tries to simulate an average user </b>connecting a longwire to either receiver hoping to listen to a station of his/her choice.<br />
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<h3>
Test Results</h3>
<div>
<br /></div>
Sorry, no video this time, I made one but no audible difference with major stations / strong signals, weak signals are noise interspersed with voice, not video material.<br />
If you can clearly see the signal in SDRSharp the G8 can receive it without any problem.<br />
If you have to strain your eyes or play with contrast - G8 will receive it 1kHz below indicated SDRSharp frequency. Faint, but still audible.<br />
<b>Indoors:</b> same performance. No surprise here, placate wife and neighbors, erect an outside antenna.<br />
<b>20 feet / 6m outdoor antenna:</b> Major broadcasters - government propaganda, religious and foreign language programming all booming in. No difference between Ham It Up and portable shortwave for enjoyment factor.<br />
20 m (around 14.2) CW and SSB chat caught on Ham It Up, indistinguishable with the G8. <br />
<b>Ham It Up is very slightly better with lots of software tweaking,</b> gain and digital noise reduction is your friend. The difference is there, but really, really small. More often than not, you end up with voice fading in and out.<br />
<b>Weak signals are a hit-and-miss</b> with either setup, at least with the RTL setup, play with contrast, gain and digital noise reduction and click on the faint waterfall. Many minutes later you might get a voice from the other of the globe. Or not.<br />
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<h3>
Recommendations</h3>
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<b>1. You will be better off </b>with a portable shortwave receiver. Easier to use. Better to listen to.<br />
<b>2. The Ham It Up needs a preamp.</b> Badly. When I got tired of noise I plugged in the LNA4HF.<br />
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<b>The Ham It Up</b> is slightly better in terms of reception capability, added software features make it an enticing proposition. But if you're hunting weak signals (read: love to listen to hissing noise) a proper antenna, noise reduction tricks from the book and a preamp is a must.<br />
The "better to listen to" part is impossible to explain. Live music will be always better than recorded, and to my ears, the portable is better for listening.<br />
<br />
<u><b>For shortwave listening spend your hard-earned money on a portable.</b></u><br />
<br />
<h3>
If you enjoyed this article, or wish to support this blog, </h3>
<br />
<u>... <a href="http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HCIPSQY" target="_blank">go to Amazon and buy my book</a>. </u> Tips and tricks in the book will save time and money, reduce frustration with computer settings and help you build the best antenna system from shortwave to microwave. Detailed and illustrated step-by-step descriptions on easy-to-do antennas, from shortwave to microwave.<br />
Basically all you need to know <u>to enjoy radio.</u><br />
<u><br /></u>
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<br />Akoshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04062652939032964739noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4253307684293817917.post-50591679711589855312014-01-28T21:22:00.000-08:002016-02-25T14:48:31.882-08:00LNA4HF Review<meta content='3;URL=http://rtlsdr4everyone.blogspot.com/p/review-lna4hf.html ' http-equiv='refresh'/>
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<span style="background-color: white; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial;">Affordable, portable and works, this is a must-have for upconverter owners and shortwave listeners.</span><br />
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<h3>
<span style="background-color: white; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial;">What is it? </span></h3>
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<span style="background-color: white; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5V7eiGlPl3Pb7t0Ys40-XAdWkbcNtQZEWaRfxhhgoQZhxYP4_b6V_S1AfWym15WGSxlIOWfOVCjBY6mLsdYY19n4Ab-I6qw2Ej06Kb6_ghXCACDLKXbfCJuR6xdenW_SV2jOXz72yY20/s1600/plain.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="186" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5V7eiGlPl3Pb7t0Ys40-XAdWkbcNtQZEWaRfxhhgoQZhxYP4_b6V_S1AfWym15WGSxlIOWfOVCjBY6mLsdYY19n4Ab-I6qw2Ej06Kb6_ghXCACDLKXbfCJuR6xdenW_SV2jOXz72yY20/s1600/plain.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<span style="background-color: white; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial;">The </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "times new roman" , "new york" , "times" , serif; font-size: 18.399999618530273px;">LNA4HF</span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "times new roman" , "new york" , "times" , serif; font-size: 18.399999618530273px;"> is a</span><span style="background-color: white;"> low-noise amplifier (also called signal booster) for long -, medium -, and shortwave reception, amplifies signals 80 - 100 times between 0.15 MHz and 30 MHz. </span><br />
It will let you hear more signals with your RTL-SDR plus Ham-It-Up setup, and can be also used for standalone receivers.<br />
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<h3>
<span style="background-color: white;">How much?</span></h3>
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<span style="background-color: white; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial;"><b>Costs</b> 27 USD / 20 EUR / 16 GBP including shipping,<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span><a href="http://lna4hf.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">available from Adam, the manufacturer via his webpage</a>. You pay for the item when it arrives, no shipping worries.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial;">Contact the seller, Adam directly via email for orders: adam9a4qvwashington@yahoo.com. Remove the capital of the USA to get his real email: name (4letters) and callsign (5 characters).</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;"><u><b>Disclosure:</b></u> I received my sample for free for testing. <u><i>Thanks.</i></u> This is the second product I receive from the manufacturer for testing, and like before, no instructions nor "please write this". Adam simply answered my emails and updated his product blog with answers to my questions. </span><br />
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<h3>
<span style="background-color: white;">Size and power</span></h3>
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<span style="background-color: white;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTbjF1puyLQYFXCJGy6MzIfGIqvCIbZbBDoC4Crk9f-4rd_tlBsWw3eyPJ_8INcaGo5RWYhMSPbI5uf0oH0G0Fon5jvq3W18htgZqaUeDhvqIvnLX0g_E1kRso8V0xn4Aw9KCo8-C05No/s1600/size.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="179" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTbjF1puyLQYFXCJGy6MzIfGIqvCIbZbBDoC4Crk9f-4rd_tlBsWw3eyPJ_8INcaGo5RWYhMSPbI5uf0oH0G0Fon5jvq3W18htgZqaUeDhvqIvnLX0g_E1kRso8V0xn4Aw9KCo8-C05No/s1600/size.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;"><b>Measures </b>25x25 mm, or one square inch. Small enough to be placed in an electrical box. </span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;"><b>Signal connectors</b> are SMA female. </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><b>Wide range</b> of power options:</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;">1) 6-12 V via supplied red and black cable. </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;">2) 5V supply by soldering a piece of wire onto the board, so power from the the Ham-It-Up can be used. This is great for those who wish to install the LNA in an enclosure, close to the upconverter.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;">3) 13.8 V (car battery), place a 470 Ohm resistor in line on the red (positive) cable. </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><br /></span>Fine tip solder and advanced soldering skills needed for 5V modification (components are the size of an ant's head), 470 Ohm resistor costs around a dollar.<br />
I simply used six AA batteries in a cardboard tube, taped wires to batteries, and ran them to the board power supply.<br />
After providing power to its brother, the <a href="http://sdrformariners.blogspot.ie/2013/08/antenna-amplifier.html" target="_blank">LNA4ALL</a> with screws, seeing chunky red and black wires<br />
in the bubble wrap envelope was a relief.<br />
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<h3>
Low-pass filter</h3>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip01sM6sTaBIzxU_JcgvR0ev0mZesn0Cd160KKrkiqji630bIrNu_VYGtHDuO8ClAWeuxBf0iclPrU_HhwEK5wCbv0kd5VJuQzpA-EI4E-CHer93H1u8sS5GBoqzN26GaOq1eyKQ0xIK8/s1600/FM+noise+pickup.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="222" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip01sM6sTaBIzxU_JcgvR0ev0mZesn0Cd160KKrkiqji630bIrNu_VYGtHDuO8ClAWeuxBf0iclPrU_HhwEK5wCbv0kd5VJuQzpA-EI4E-CHer93H1u8sS5GBoqzN26GaOq1eyKQ0xIK8/s1600/FM+noise+pickup.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<b>Interference</b> from signals above 30 MHz (Broadcast radio etc) are reduced due to a low-pass filter at the antenna input. The bypass switch will be rendered useless on the Ham It Up - no signals above 30 MHz, shortwave only.</div>
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<b>Tested efficiency</b> by tuning to strongest boadcast station, gain up to 42.1 dB, LNA4HF made an audible and visible difference when inserted into the signal chain.<br />
Disable the low pass filter and get a preamp covering 0.15 Mhz - 2000 MHz by cutting the electrical connection <a href="http://lna4hf.blogspot.ie/" target="_blank">as per Adam's instructions</a>, as I already bought a preamp for VHF (and hate to solder) it's not tested.<br />
"Simple modification" is not the first expression I'd use for any modification involving soldering on this board, the 2-euro coin in the image above is slightly larger than a quarter dollar coin - SMA connectors look huge in comparison. The option is provided, which is great, but if you want a preamp for 30 plus MHz buy an LNA4ALL, that works with car batteries out of the box. <br />
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<span style="background-color: white;">Placement</span></h3>
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<span style="background-color: white;"><b>Preamps should be placed </b>right after the antenna for optimum performance, so electrical noise picked up by antenna cable will not be amplified any further. <b>In theory.</b> Daily practice is to place any preamp indoors, where I can easily provide power and won't have to worry about waterproofing. </span><br />
<b>A cheap and cheerful solution</b> is to place the preamp and power supply in an electrical junction box, add a switch for On/Off, place the preamp right at the antenna, and turn on power when you need it. This is a tried and tested solution with a 9V battery for field trips and / or maximum performance.<br />
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<h3>
Performance</h3>
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<b>Works as advertised,</b> signal height is 20 dB higher in SDRSharp. Audible difference.<br />
<b>Tested</b> on four shortwave frequencies with an outdoor discone, same settings in SDRSharp, only removing the LNA4HF for comparison.<br />
<b>Beginner setup,</b> no elaborate noise reduction measures, only a modded USB cable connecting a R820T stick, pigtails between Ham-It-Up and LNA4HF, 10 foot coax to discone. Urban location with significant FM, pager and UHF interference.<br />
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<b>Utilizing the performance potential</b> can be only achieved with an optimized antenna system - a proper shortwave antenna and noise reduction measures will make a huge difference.<br />
Still, even with this VERY basic setup the improvement is clearly there.<br />
<b><br /></b>
<h3>
Using with standalone receivers</h3>
<br />
<br />
<b>Shortwave aficionados </b>will love this preamp - the low pass filter reduces local interference whilst simultaneously amplifies signals.<br />
An Icom IC-R5 (handheld wideband receiver, about 70-80 USD on eBay used) easily received the same stations used for testing the LNA with an upconvrter - why not connect the preamp to the Icom?<br />
Connecting the preamp between the antenna and the receiver resulted in better signal quality - see video below. Same antenna and same volume settings, Band Scan.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dwzUzrkFa4zX2_4yDXjOjgd_JQUaQB-8fUB9NlTdM2Y-TDUi9IMHYsHovhOtvIdXNz51PLHn8kGLQVc-9DGjQ' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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<b>Note 1:</b> the shortwave receiver and antenna above is a far cry from a dedicated shortwave receiver and proper antenna, included here for comparison purposes only.<br />
<b>Note 2:</b> video above with a discone, a longwire plus preamp will possibly overload and damage an Icom IC-R5, this hasn't been tested.<br />
<br />
<h3>
If you enjoyed this article, or wish to support this blog, </h3>
<br />
<u>... <a href="http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HCIPSQY" target="_blank">go to Amazon and buy my book</a>. </u> Tips and tricks in the book will save time and money, reduce frustration with computer settings and help you build the best antenna system from shortwave to microwave. Detailed and illustrated step-by-step descriptions on easy-to-do antennas, from shortwave to microwave.<br />
Basically all you need to know <u>to enjoy radio.</u><br />
<br /></div>Akoshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04062652939032964739noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4253307684293817917.post-36911363907381718922014-01-13T07:07:00.000-08:002016-02-25T14:30:54.034-08:00Review: Baofeng UV-5R<meta content='3;URL=http://rtlsdr4everyone.blogspot.com/p/blog-page_28.html ' http-equiv='refresh'/>
... also known as Baofeng UV-5R Plus Qualette.<br />
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Review primarily for mariners, secondarily for all interested in a cheap, portable and altogether excellent walkie-talkie.<br />
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<h3>
<b>What is it? </b></h3>
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<b>Handheld radio</b> covering 137-174 MHz and 400-520 MHz, costs 55 USD / 40 EUR / 34 GBP including external speaker microphone, USB cable and protective cover, free shipping from Hong Kong took 2 weeks to Ireland.<br />
<b>Transmits and receives</b> on Marine Channels, Personal Mobile Radio, Amateur bands, Family Radio Service, GMRS, practically any analog frequency used by ordinary folks.<br />
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<h3>
Useful features</h3>
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<b>Weight</b> 244 g / 8.62 oz with battery and protective cover, fits in your palm, size equivalent to a digital camera. Icom lists the M87E as "compact and lightweight", this is 36g lighter and about the same size.<br />
<b>Quality feel</b>, first impression is "heavy, well built". Fit and finish is good, pushing buttons and rotating knob feels positive and reassuring.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic6xcjQz9K2-U-18pgV1C44TQo5hItIktwXgq0FsyDcCMEdWUbu4v-S7Zv2EX-Yn4rWOoeb4-wzOCqemT6kE491nwz_tGCE_TRxPg6pDLuSeHFbf2fJLfdnPBUwviWtwMqpGbKcCC-MdM/s1600/size+comparison.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="203" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic6xcjQz9K2-U-18pgV1C44TQo5hItIktwXgq0FsyDcCMEdWUbu4v-S7Zv2EX-Yn4rWOoeb4-wzOCqemT6kE491nwz_tGCE_TRxPg6pDLuSeHFbf2fJLfdnPBUwviWtwMqpGbKcCC-MdM/s320/size+comparison.jpg" width="320" /></a><b>Flashlight:</b> LED on top, dedicated button for continuous light or strobe. Surprisingly strong light and usable torch, one less item to carry on duty.<br />
<b>FM radio:</b> Listen to Broadcast Radio from 65 to 108 MHz. Automatically muted if incoming transmission detected.<br />
<b>Loud:</b> 1000 mW audio output power. Fills a room easily.<br />
<b>Alarm:</b> flashing white light, siren and automatically transmits on last selected frequency.<br />
<b>Display:</b> standby / receive / transmit glows in different colours, user selectable. Alphanumeric display, so instead of 156.800 you can enter CH 16.<br />
<b>Dual watch</b>, monitor two frequencies at the same time.<br />
<b>External speaker microphone:</b> keep the radio in your pocket, speaker mic on shoulder. No armpit rope, no fumbling on your belt.<br />
<b>Power: </b>selectable Low 1W and High 5W, independent reviews confirmed 10% less in real life, still on par with radios costing minimum 2-3 times more.<br />
<b>Computer programmable:</b> via free software.<br />
<b>Long battery life:</b> standby over 2 days, full charge in 4 hours. Half charge in 2 hours.<br />
<b>Cost:</b> radio only 30 dollars. Dropped, overboard, destroyed - 30 dollars gone. You can even buy the old UV-5R for 20 dollars (shipped) which will be 80% identical cosmetically and offers exactly the same performance.<br />
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<h3>
Yachting use</h3>
Any scenario when you need communication with crew members, or as an emergency radio.<br />
<b>Man overboard:</b> Lone helmsman in the drink has at least a chance to call for help and / or direct rescue operations. GPS capable, buoyant Marine VHF e.g. Icom M91D is over 400 dollars.<br />
<b>Crew ashore:</b> lounge on the beach and listen to local tunes, monitor two frequencies at the same time, port captain calls with clearance, crew member surfaces from nightclub, crew finished provisioning in supermarket 2 miles away - you will know that you're ready to go, no need to carry expensive (or yacht property) Marine VHF or second walkie talkie.<br />
<b>Party time:</b> audio ear-shatteringly loud at 1000 mW output power, previously mentioned Icom only offers 700mW. In comparison: your laptop's built-in speakers maxxed out is probably quieter than this radio.<br />
And a lot more, small size, high power output and low cost makes for a versatile radio.<br />
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<h3>
Different versions - which one to buy</h3>
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaC5n7Xhh_4e4He3MU80ciRq3flnNgeiCJq457gkaxd9Dq6ewstVd2qG-sbl-cCJvLV1w66xazDbp2yajxv7bum6hzT6b62N1JU_FqWCySRWG54pl3aUzrtIcMzM8gQF4c9tE_D5f_w2Q/s1600/old+vs+new+antenna.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaC5n7Xhh_4e4He3MU80ciRq3flnNgeiCJq457gkaxd9Dq6ewstVd2qG-sbl-cCJvLV1w66xazDbp2yajxv7bum6hzT6b62N1JU_FqWCySRWG54pl3aUzrtIcMzM8gQF4c9tE_D5f_w2Q/s320/old+vs+new+antenna.jpg" width="273" /></a><b>Recommended:</b> UV-5R Plus Qualette Yellow. Easier to find in the dark and deep cupboards.<br />
The original UV-5R, introduced few years ago revolutionized the handheld ham radio transceiver market due to low cost and usefulness; update added more interior metal, better antenna and firmware updates, most recent incarnation called the UV-5R Plus, subject of this review.<br />
<b>Latest models can be spotted from the antenna:</b> taller with square top, no grooves on the bottom, superior to the original (first version) antenna. <br />
<b>BEWARE:</b> Ebay sellers feature the old antenna, often showing images with the new and old antenna side by side. Confirm antenna type before ordering.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggRlYW8NeZayWttChj1liQTdqxn5WOZ1niFVFsM71lhWbhydgB7EnKF-d4rJNpxzxJVt8zG8W4BtMXcdyJbK7yB2KmkUdU0TvGPs3mz2sw89lb1tVXzu7lmEvsNCrSMgF7IbnXBqoyYC4/s1600/old+vs+new.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="121" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggRlYW8NeZayWttChj1liQTdqxn5WOZ1niFVFsM71lhWbhydgB7EnKF-d4rJNpxzxJVt8zG8W4BtMXcdyJbK7yB2KmkUdU0TvGPs3mz2sw89lb1tVXzu7lmEvsNCrSMgF7IbnXBqoyYC4/s1600/old+vs+new.jpg" width="320" /></a><b>Same brain, different body:</b> UV-5R2 loses Band button, UV-B5 has rotary channel selector instead of flashlight, larger body and worse display. "Qualette" designation means radio comes in yellow, blue, camo and <br />
red colours. UV-5RA looks better, rounded curves, less compatible accessories.<br />
As long as the radio features the new, improved antenna and comes with firmware 297 it is the latest version.<br />
Whilst you're on Ebay order SMA female - SMA female barrel connectors for 1 dollar each, enables industry standard antennas and adapters to be used.<br />
<br />
<h3>
Accessories</h3>
<br />
<b>Radio comes with</b> battery, battery charger, wrist strap, FBI style earpiece, and belt clip. Belt clip screws on, strong enough for all-day use. Charger and adapter takes up little luggage space, important for international travel.<br />
<b>Package prices</b> will be cheaper than purchasing accessories separately, do yourself a favour and buy a USB cable for PC programming.<br />
<b>Digital camera cases </b>or a phone pouch can be used as radio is tiny.<br />
Since the radio is around for a while, large range of accessories available. None of the newer models offer this diversity of accessories.<br />
<b>Speaker Mic:</b> around 10 dollars, comes with clip, functions as a speaker (listen to received audio) and as a microphone (press the button and talk into it). Standard Kenwood-style two pin connector.<br />
<b>USB cable:</b> 6-10 dollars, enables programming with computer, free software available.<br />
<b>Rubber sleeve:</b> 6-8 dollars, protects from scratches and bumps.<br />
<b>Cloning cable:</b> Copy frequencies and settings for 5 dollars in a few seconds between two radios.<br />
<b>High-capacity-battery:</b> standard is 1800 mAh, 3600 mAh for 20 dollars.<br />
<b>Battery case:</b> operate with six AA batteries, 9 dollars for the privilege. As standard battery is 7.4V presumably radio works with rechargeables, I haven't tested this.<br />
<b>Battery eliminator:</b> 12 V (read: standard boat or car) supply, replaces battery pack, 9 dollars. Note that the charger adapter outputs 10V DC, I cut the adapter cord and hooked up to a 13.4V battery - charged the radio fine. If you need tethered operation stay safe and spend 9 bucks, charger might overheat from extra voltage.<br />
<br />
<h3>
Connectors<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
</h3>
<h3>
</h3>
<b>Radio comes with detachable antenna</b>, SMA - Female<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0N8zK1wDPUs9gTF0P1E7baUOcQ2QDIL7wJIfFCuWA49S5Z2DFiv0AtyirAxUnCOc6iVQ4dM85jIU_7eeRsNcR0PdHtzZ7FqvxilsD8GMQCBTl9DIuR9aOgRYcEb3emPKhswv_aD8qrjU/s1600/sma+rp+vs+sma.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="120" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0N8zK1wDPUs9gTF0P1E7baUOcQ2QDIL7wJIfFCuWA49S5Z2DFiv0AtyirAxUnCOc6iVQ4dM85jIU_7eeRsNcR0PdHtzZ7FqvxilsD8GMQCBTl9DIuR9aOgRYcEb3emPKhswv_aD8qrjU/s320/sma+rp+vs+sma.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
connector, looks like regular SMA connector turned inside out, signal pin inside, rest of metal visible = ground.<br />
<a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-SMA-Female-To-Female-Straight-RF-connector-Adapter-/160518460550?pt=US_Radio_Comm_Coaxial_Cables_Connectors&hash=item255fa55486" target="_blank">SMA female barrel adapter</a> required for regular SMA antenna connection, <a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-SMA-male-plug-to-BNC-female-jack-RF-Connetor-Adapter-/160517645389?pt=US_Radio_Comm_Coaxial_Cables_Connectors&hash=item255f98e44d" target="_blank">SMA male - BNC female</a> for antennas featuring BNC connection.<br />
Other adaptors (N-type shown) can be used to connect to mast-mounted antennas, as N-type connector is most often used in professional radio applications.<br />
All antenna cables shall be 50 Ohm aka "radio coax". Ask for RG 58 cable, or LMR 240, LMR 400 for less cable loss or for long cable runs.<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS8CoBfFlWehteurOXkAafaTIt_VDgDS9j08c5hd6CKDCb8BdWYm4h6LPvYdCdLY-iJS2TGOzXLCE_lfsq39muOGiYPiP59Q1836glqg6NSSWJVmUjuCFRuPb9cAgwazWHx1MD1p9_ZrE/s1600/alternatice+connection.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="146" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS8CoBfFlWehteurOXkAafaTIt_VDgDS9j08c5hd6CKDCb8BdWYm4h6LPvYdCdLY-iJS2TGOzXLCE_lfsq39muOGiYPiP59Q1836glqg6NSSWJVmUjuCFRuPb9cAgwazWHx1MD1p9_ZrE/s400/alternatice+connection.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<h3>
Antennas and performance improvements</h3>
For normal operation stock antenna is perfectly fine.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
For maximum range or better performance on VHF (Marine Channels) you must buy a longer antenna. Nagoya 771 or 773 around 10 dollars, Diamond handheld antennas 20-30 dollars. Looks like a horsewhip, 15-20" / 30-50 cm lengths. I have a Nagoya 773 on order as it's collapsible, will report back on performance.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir4Jsz2Ozubit6uavIrZjSyBQYiDj0-DA__Z4lzFy1qD_GwBw577YquX2xbfxyNXVXBkKRe30BAM_nXhyphenhyphenRJ5N3Wn9wSXjkzzYcK0JHqSpf74D-4tx6dWdTfta4TVld0cjzH6S8x6P7HUo/s1600/PIGTAIL+OPTIONS.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir4Jsz2Ozubit6uavIrZjSyBQYiDj0-DA__Z4lzFy1qD_GwBw577YquX2xbfxyNXVXBkKRe30BAM_nXhyphenhyphenRJ5N3Wn9wSXjkzzYcK0JHqSpf74D-4tx6dWdTfta4TVld0cjzH6S8x6P7HUo/s640/PIGTAIL+OPTIONS.jpg" width="137" /></a><b>To improve performance of any handheld antenna use the following:</b><br />
<b>Tiger tail</b>, rat tail, counterpoise, same stuff, piece of wire connected to antenna ground: metal surrounding the center pin around the antenna socket. <br />
Length should be 75 divided by MHz of interest, for maximum efficiency on marine channels use 20" / 50 cm length wire - if no measure available roughly three palm's length, wrist to elbow distance or shorter and longer side of regular A4 paper together. <br />
Above 400 MHz use 7" / 17.5 cm length of wire, palm's length, safe bet.<br />
Connect the wire to metal base, round wire connectors shown are a perfect fit. Plastic surrounding the socket needs to be cut, screw the antenna on and mark at the back of the radio first.<br />
If using non-standard antennas, due to gap tiger tail is not flush and moves around, washers needed for a tight fit.<br />
<b>Tiger tail effectiveness:</b> 50 % to 100 % improvement on both transmit and receive.<br />
<br />
<h3>
Computer programming</h3>
<br />
Definitely order a USB cable to use free software called CHIRP, setting up the radio with Marine and PMR channels takes 10 minutes.<br />
You will need to download <a href="http://www.powerwerx.com/download/USB7VISTA.exe" target="_blank">USB cable driver</a>, <a href="http://chirp.danplanet.com/projects/chirp/wiki/Home" target="_blank">CHIRP</a>, then follow the detailed guide available on the <a href="http://www.miklor.com/COM/UV_Drivers.php#install" target="_blank">miklor site</a>.<br />
<br />
<b>IMPORTANT: </b>Fully plug in the USB connection cable, small plug to small socket and larger plug to larger socket, last few mm makes a difference, repeat: fully plug in connection cable.<br />
With Chirp Installed, Radio connected and turned on, Go to Radio, then Download from Radio (or press ALT+D). Software downloads channel settings from radio.<br />
You may delete or edit channel settings individually, explore Radio - Import From Stock Config options.<br />
<br />
<h3>
Online support and resources</h3>
<br />
Sort of cult following for the UV-5R, lots of info on the web.<br />
User guides on the Miklor website, <a href="http://www.miklor.com/uv5r/UV5R-Manuals.html" target="_blank">please read them first</a>.<br />
Then play with radio and CHIRP, maybe google upcoming questions: probably it has been asked before.<br />
Factory helpline, chat and support does not exist, but any and all of your questions will be answered by subscribing to the <a href="http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/baofeng_uv5r/info" target="_blank">UV-5R Yahoo Group</a> mailing list.<br />
<b>Miklor.com</b>: all your need to know about this and other models, FAQ and user guides are excellent.<br />
<br />
<h3>
Legal Issues</h3>
<br />
Radio might not be legal TO TRANSMIT in certain countries, states, jurisdictions, or on specific frequencies. Using the radio as a radio scanner e.g. listening should be ok.<br />
Please check local laws and regulations before transmitting with this radio.<br />
<br />
<h3>
If you enjoyed this article, or wish to support this blog, </h3>
<br />
<u>... <a href="http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HCIPSQY" target="_blank">go to Amazon and buy my book</a>. </u> Tips and tricks in the book will save time and money, reduce frustration with computer settings and help you build the best antenna system from shortwave to microwave. Detailed and illustrated step-by-step descriptions on easy-to-do antennas, from shortwave to microwave.<br />
Basically all you need to know <u>to enjoy radio.</u><br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>Akoshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04062652939032964739noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4253307684293817917.post-13507350014694395022013-12-16T09:26:00.000-08:002016-02-25T14:44:33.115-08:00Cooling <meta content='3;URL=http://rtlsdr4everyone.blogspot.com/p/cooling.html ' http-equiv='refresh'/>
<b>Why cooling is important</b><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHmB4_qc5xBIdnHjkeXXkOo2FJ9WdYB4B7GkzFblKqOAQ-U5nr6pYngPybL9akwFmxb1gsh-5SwAB_JijV0IqWHqbwlWyJCUxefAbDUZxEl8e623f-VkiM45S0Aj_BuKmrwydK8fmqFaM/s1600/rtl+stick+chip+location.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="167" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHmB4_qc5xBIdnHjkeXXkOo2FJ9WdYB4B7GkzFblKqOAQ-U5nr6pYngPybL9akwFmxb1gsh-5SwAB_JijV0IqWHqbwlWyJCUxefAbDUZxEl8e623f-VkiM45S0Aj_BuKmrwydK8fmqFaM/s320/rtl+stick+chip+location.jpg" width="320" /></a><b></b></div>
<br />
<br />
<b>Electronic chips generate noise and heat </b>during use: your digital camera or smart phone gets progressively hotter the more you use it. Sensitive applications, such as astrophotography MUST eliminate this heat, as heat is noise, black sky will be grainy black sky.<br />
This heat is also present with the RTL stick, appears as frequency drift and internal noise - radio will not stay on a frequency.<br />
Gain applied in Configuration panel increases heat, hunt weak signals and need to increase gain = increases internal noise generated by the stick.<br />
Improve cooling - reduce noise.<br />
Recently introduced temperature-controlled oscillator promises to solve this issue, around 50 dollars. Regular RTL stick sells for 8 USD. Hmm.<br />
<br />
<b>Do you need to worry about it?</b><br />
<br />
<b>No: </b>Leave the stick warm up for 15 minutes - half an hour, let it reach thermal equilibrium, after stick is warmed up set ppm correction. My particular stick drifts 4 ppm from cold to warmed up, then stays on frequency.<br />
<b>Yes: </b>You are a perfectionist, or you want less internal noise with high gain settings.<br />
Performance increase with modifications below will be really, really small, less noise on shortwave, maybe one or two less noisy lines on WXSat images.<br />
<br />
<b>Air cooling</b><br />
<br />
The brain of the stick lives under the plastic cover, open up the stick and drill holes, especially above the black squares, or leave the board bare without its plastic cover.<br />
Stick will run cooler, frequency drift will be reduced somewhat.<br />
<b>Heat-sinks are a possible solution,</b> reliable connection is hard to achieve due to small surface area, edge of the chip can break off.<br />
<b>Additional airlow with PC fans</b>, run on 5V, telephone chargers can be used. Two PC fans installed outside a PC power supply case, with stick in the middle provides a cheap air-cooled solution.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivmPQD71w98HKXYAEIFXSRtSEQ7Dlr_M4npU-NMLei93cqDCUebCrVzNM_69o-DtAG9XF7k2AJWoJ-WoJhJtkibMtUVoeh29BkyXrkSPEVs4pxkyN2YqZ7vIVQ7IwIu_jh3fRXwnCLqSI/s1600/air+cooling+dagram.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="208" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivmPQD71w98HKXYAEIFXSRtSEQ7Dlr_M4npU-NMLei93cqDCUebCrVzNM_69o-DtAG9XF7k2AJWoJ-WoJhJtkibMtUVoeh29BkyXrkSPEVs4pxkyN2YqZ7vIVQ7IwIu_jh3fRXwnCLqSI/s640/air+cooling+dagram.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
Using fans have the following drawbacks: 1) Needs external power source, 2) magnets in close proximity to the stick, 3) the awful sssssssh noise fans generate.<br />
<br />
<b>Water cooling</b><br />
<br />
Electricity plus water equals disaster, insulator (hot glue or epoxy) must be used to seal electrical components from water. Tried several methods back in the Pentium 4 days, messy, expensive, hot glue won't dry evenly, epoxy eats components: water cooling is unsuitable.<br />
<br />
<b>Oil cooling</b><br />
<br />
<b>Place stick into metal can,</b> with antenna and USB cable connected and led through lid of can, position stick middle of can, slightly above bottom.<br />
Pour sunflower or vegetable oil into can with the RTL stick inside, completely fill up can.<br />
<b><i>Repeat:</i> fill up can as much as you can, </b>any interior surface will pick up condensation.<br />
Cover with lid, plug in USB and connect antenna, fire up SDRSharp.<br />
Oil will provide cooling, it is not conductive, see stick blue light on image below.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJYFRyQFECA2PJ1BdH26-7h2xnzTK8zpQL-rSwkNYYW878TXLK7-vRDv670MldF9nyFjfeLdJkTdFDPrwvmogGIzFMs-JZf-nZVDw9qwDH_qbwEP7ZE7k-svqwNm1FhyphenhyphenTzdep7cS5VDWw/s1600/oil+cooling.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="RTL-SDR, Software Defined Radio" border="0" height="387" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJYFRyQFECA2PJ1BdH26-7h2xnzTK8zpQL-rSwkNYYW878TXLK7-vRDv670MldF9nyFjfeLdJkTdFDPrwvmogGIzFMs-JZf-nZVDw9qwDH_qbwEP7ZE7k-svqwNm1FhyphenhyphenTzdep7cS5VDWw/s400/oil+cooling.jpg" title="Oil Cooling RTL-SDR stick" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
Place can in the fridge or freezer: sunflower oil theoretically has a very low freezing point, practically after one night at -20 degrees Celsius can will be very cold to touch.<br />
Active heating is unnecessary, oil volume and metal can surface will be enough to dissipate heat.<br />
<br />
<b>Cherry on the cake: FM Noise Reduction</b><br />
<br />
Metal can also acts as a Faraday cage, FM broadcast pickup will be greatly reduced.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0euACvWqoJT8VQedrfMNF5Q-RI9HYbqP-vMhNBwyzoiKVOfxMUKZ_Ho4BBzgH6BCkTIaVTZAq8YpsryV4b3FLI7BaHrvS8zqQWdr9hm5TULdbmUmLYOIY1lUs5-TTfqk3gni2SxX6A7s/s1600/oil+cooling+results.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="301" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0euACvWqoJT8VQedrfMNF5Q-RI9HYbqP-vMhNBwyzoiKVOfxMUKZ_Ho4BBzgH6BCkTIaVTZAq8YpsryV4b3FLI7BaHrvS8zqQWdr9hm5TULdbmUmLYOIY1lUs5-TTfqk3gni2SxX6A7s/s400/oil+cooling+results.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<b>Traditionalists love to place stick in metal enclosure</b> for the same reason, not realizing that heat buildup will effect performance - a chip running at a very low temperature will have lower internal noise and greater performance.<br />
<br />
<b>Cleaning stick after oil cleaning</b><br />
<br />
Stick should not be connected to computer or any other electricity.<br />
<b>Lukewarm water in sink</b>, spoonful washing powder or cup of liquid detergent, the more the better, dissolve until glassy reflection and feel of glove on hand. Pour liquid detergent on stick/ place stick and USB cable in washing powder, wash off oil and detergent with lots of water.<br />
Repeat steps above 2-3 times, wash hands, clean with towel / toilet paper.<br />
Leave stick to dry for a day. small heat, not close to radiator, never on top of a heater.<br />
Will be good as new.<br />
<br />
<h3>
If you enjoyed this article, or wish to support this blog, </h3>
<br />
<u>... <a href="http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HCIPSQY" target="_blank">go to Amazon and buy my book</a>. </u> Tips and tricks in the book will save time and money, reduce frustration with computer settings and help you build the best antenna system from shortwave to microwave. Detailed and illustrated step-by-step descriptions on easy-to-do antennas, from shortwave to microwave.<br />
Basically all you need to know <u>to enjoy radio.</u>Akoshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04062652939032964739noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4253307684293817917.post-8197948096147290592013-10-04T13:01:00.000-07:002016-02-25T14:33:19.901-08:00Beginner Antennas<meta content='3;URL=http://rtlsdr4everyone.blogspot.com//p/beginner-antennas.html ' http-equiv='refresh'/>
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</html>Akoshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04062652939032964739noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4253307684293817917.post-61756823172524096222013-09-29T16:38:00.000-07:002016-02-25T14:36:18.000-08:00Ham-It-Up vs SDR Up 100<meta content='3;URL=http://rtlsdr4everyone.blogspot.com/p/ham-it-up-vs-sdr-up-100.html ' http-equiv='refresh'/>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgib2D2CaPjeUtN0Fl2MRcHKirfcUIR19tndsaKB2LfVHOQ7vJhFBBvWdGecFg71PHaIRZ1G6b6j33UEr3SRMM34pTWWJfg_POcTOk63hX0qqmlcH_xKHf54e-nIFo2rqD6rBLzfLuW0E/s1600/01+versus+logo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="RTL-SDR, shortwave, comparison, shootout, review, Ham-It-Up, SDR Up 100, adapter, SDRSharp" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgib2D2CaPjeUtN0Fl2MRcHKirfcUIR19tndsaKB2LfVHOQ7vJhFBBvWdGecFg71PHaIRZ1G6b6j33UEr3SRMM34pTWWJfg_POcTOk63hX0qqmlcH_xKHf54e-nIFo2rqD6rBLzfLuW0E/s320/01+versus+logo.jpg" height="304" title="Ham-It-Up vs SDR-Up 100" width="320" /></a>The <b>Ham-It-Up </b>and the <b>Up 100</b> are the two cheapest shortwave adapters available: direct competitors at 50 USD (including shipping).<br />For this review, I purchased the Ham-It-Up and received the Up-100 for free for testing.<br /><br /><h2>Shipping and customer service</h2><br /><b>The Ham-It-Up</b> comes from the States with tracked shipping; you get emails where it is, but when the package leaves the US no more tracking info available. You can buy on <a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ham-It-Up-RF-Upconverter-For-SDRs-RTL2832U-E4000-R820T-MF-HF-Up-Converter-/161068152203?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item258068f58b" target="_blank">Ebay</a>, <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Ham-It-v1-2-Upconverter-Converter/dp/B009LQT3G6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1380494404&sr=8-1&keywords=ham+it+up" target="_blank">Amazon </a>or via the <a href="http://www.nooelec.com/store/ham-it-up-v1-0-rf-upconverter-for-software-defined-radio.html" target="_blank">manufacturer's website</a>.<br /><b>The Up-100</b> ships from Croatia (that's a country in Europe next to Italy) with no tracking. You pay when the item arrives, so no shipping worries. Available by sending an email to Adam: adam9a4qvwashington@yahoo.com, remove the US capital to get his proper email.<br /><b>Nooelec:</b> Local postal service lost my first order, so after some Ebay hassle they sent a replacement one free of charge. Nooelec also included 3 adapters for free, to compensate for the inconvenience.<br /><b>Adam:</b> Upconverter arrived quickly, seller replies almost immediately, will help you with antennas, cables and power options. I requested a power lead to power the SDR-100 and received one free of charge.<br /><br /><h2>Ham-It-Up First Impressions</h2><br />Your 50 dollars from Nooelec arrives in an anti-static bag, protected by two bubble-wrap envelopes. <b>The Ham-It-Up</b> fits in your palm, looks and feels impressive; first thoughts were "This will get the job done, money well spent and just look at that beauty".<br /><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsePhZIF8EKkPsrZzwafrC0MyCFlvf-r7dHKx7vM3ZC-_l2buIaZf60J-L4UGo1FoqulrzZfw9ri-rjaS1XTl8cloULNjzzFO_HoirG8qBK00tqbHtuLWsIehHNUyOkH-sAaDyji-rna4/s1600/oscillators.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="RTL-SDR, shortwave, comparison, shootout, review, Ham-It-Up, SDR Up 100, adapter, SDRSharp" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsePhZIF8EKkPsrZzwafrC0MyCFlvf-r7dHKx7vM3ZC-_l2buIaZf60J-L4UGo1FoqulrzZfw9ri-rjaS1XTl8cloULNjzzFO_HoirG8qBK00tqbHtuLWsIehHNUyOkH-sAaDyji-rna4/s320/oscillators.jpg" height="120" title="Oscillators " width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Brain Game</b>: SDR-Up 100 on left, Ham-It-Up on right</td></tr></tbody></table>You get a piece of electronic component separately, the brain of the thing, which you have to push in; there are no written instructions in the envelope, a YouTube video shows assembly.<br />A chunky switch enables pass through mode, so if you use an outdoor (preferably discone) antenna you can use the same antenna for shortwave with a flick of a switch.<br /><b>In comparison</b>, the Up-100 works out of the box, no fitting or manual assembly required.<br />I want equipment that works when I get it: Adam's upconverter is better here.<br />Both upconverters add 125 MHz to the received frequency, so the only major difference is power options, usability and, ultimately, performance.<br /><br /><h2>Power and size</h2><br /><b>The Ham-It-Up</b> needs power between 4-6 Volts: the square USB-B cable used for printers and some external hard drives powers it.<br />Works with any of the following options:<br /><b>1. Directly from laptop</b>, USB port supplies power. Distance from computer limited by USB cable length.<br /><b>2. Mains USB adapter,</b> then USB cable powering the upconverter. Plug-in USB chargers work fine for this purpose.<br /><b>3. 12V from a car battery </b>or similar supply, 12V to 5V adapter which is widely available (called 12V to USB adapter).<br /><b>4. Four rechargeable</b> or normal batteries supplying between 4.8 V and 6V, then power via USB-B cable.<br /><br />Unless you power the Ham-It-Up from your laptop, a USB-B cable must be cut apart for power.<br />Connect the USB-B square bit into the Ham It UP, Red and Black to battery terminals and you're in business: green light comes on when it has power. This is better than the Up-100 which has no light to show it works.<br /><b>The Up-100 </b>will fit into an electrical junction box, the Ham-It-Up needs a bigger enclosure.<br /><b>For marine use, </b>without testing for performance, choose the Up-100, no power adapter nor special cable needed, smaller enclosure and works with boat or car-standard 12V.<br /><br /><h2>Testing setup<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTcjCPp7oWaC70qb6vhFtk1FBi5lXR7UDDekJXu-b5WxdRf8jXNOijLtg2Y_UiEXI6Z4hXmZc6g7abZw9KsrU35YnzZOw1dqVmC3TmAO7T7cEjRo71FDD7RgIHV_pESSFYPNi7pwpPvyM/s1600/Antenna+Comparisons.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="RTL-SDR, shortwave, comparison, shootout, review, Ham-It-Up, SDR Up 100, adapter, SDRSharp" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTcjCPp7oWaC70qb6vhFtk1FBi5lXR7UDDekJXu-b5WxdRf8jXNOijLtg2Y_UiEXI6Z4hXmZc6g7abZw9KsrU35YnzZOw1dqVmC3TmAO7T7cEjRo71FDD7RgIHV_pESSFYPNi7pwpPvyM/s320/Antenna+Comparisons.jpg" height="198" title="Antenna comparisons" width="320" /></a></div></h2><br /><b>You need as much wire outdoors as possible</b> for the frequency you're interested in; the lower the frequency the more wire you need.<br /><b>If you have a discone antenna</b> you're better off with a short wire than your discone, see results on your right. Higher peaks = better signal, more fun.<br />City centre location, 20 foot wire as antenna for testing, coax with ferrites to upconverters.<br />Laptop with 8GB Ram, Core i3 Processor running Windows 7 64-bit if you want to know.<br />During setup same antenna, RTL-SDR dongle, Gain at 0dB, same SDRSharp settings used throughout.<br />The two upconverters were set up side-by-side, only swapped antenna and signal cables.<br /><div>Tested both day and night, sunshine and rain, strong and weak signals.<br /><b>Offset: I do NOT use offset </b>in SDRSharp, simply enter 125 MHz plus the desired frequency. Tune to 125 MHz, you'll see a huge spike, your real tuned frequency starts from there. 129 MHz becomes 129-125 = 4 MHz and so on. SDRSharp crashes or fails to start for me with - 125 offset, plus some mental arithmetics won't hurt.<br /><h2>Performance<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_XwwoRa6MY__gFyRVAgcAmH2TY-ToHNAGLG2VMOLggU6HeD5dbY3beIBQaU30A0kCCptVhgTUVY-bIgFgAUGsTRN4nhI4JFvi4ecijAdrTZWcvTBOkqkzjAonBSxRwye692FjV3oNPk8/s1600/Nooelec+vs+Up+100+comparison.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="RTL-SDR, shortwave, comparison, shootout, review, Ham-It-Up, SDR Up 100, adapter, SDRSharp" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_XwwoRa6MY__gFyRVAgcAmH2TY-ToHNAGLG2VMOLggU6HeD5dbY3beIBQaU30A0kCCptVhgTUVY-bIgFgAUGsTRN4nhI4JFvi4ecijAdrTZWcvTBOkqkzjAonBSxRwye692FjV3oNPk8/s320/Nooelec+vs+Up+100+comparison.jpg" height="320" title="Ham-It-Up vs SDR-Up comparison testing" width="293" /></a></div></h2></div><h3>Update 2: <i>More pictures with different gain settings at the bottom of the post</i></h3><h3>Update 4: <i>Due to Nooelec's response I feel compelled to insert their observation here (full reply at the end of article)</i></h3><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; line-height: 8px; text-align: justify;">There is no chance that the 'Ham It Up' could possibly perform as well as it should without any gain in front of it. It's not a fair performance comparison. If anything, you should certainly specify as much in the performance section of the article.</span><br /><span style="background-color: white; color: #666666; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; line-height: 8px; text-align: justify;"><br /></span><b>Conclusion: the Up-100 is better.</b> <b>Much better.</b><br /><b>Ham-It-Up: </b>trying to understand speech, fading.<br /><b>Up-100: </b>the room is full of voice, more noise too, but Digital Noise Reduction takes care of that.<br />Weak signals are simply not there with the Ham-It-Up. I can hear them with the Up-100.<br /><b>The difference is so huge</b> that when changing upconverters I stopped double-checking which one is in use, as the Up-100 is so much louder.<br /><b>The Ham-It-Up</b> gave me the impression of a dusty, old shortwave handheld, which tunes the major stations with lots of noise and fading; and you're happy with it, 'cause at least you hear something.<br /><b>With the SDR-100</b> the feel is more of a sensitive, cutting edge equipment, able to receive faraway stations.<br /><br /><h2>Room for Improvement</h2><br /><b>- More power options.</b> Thick Red and Black wires for 9-15 V power when I need them, standard USB extension cord connectors when I want Plug and Hear.<br /><b>- LED for power.</b> SDR-Up 100 needs an indicator to show all is fine; both need flashing LED to remind me to change batteries when the battery starts to die.<br /><b>- Simple enclosure for an extra 5 euros.</b><br />-<b> Two antenna sockets </b>for HF and VHF work, big switch between the two. I don't want to change antennas.<br /><br /><br /><h2>Final thoughts<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAI-m1tXwxVsK5Mov1SIelTiU2gE1A5cJ1VHoZaZLBDg8S9DDXBMoBshOCqpEyzS_v2RW3d9SNi4KCmQc3qkZjAO8QAZ4po__fm_VJVL1uxR2jEsM7hrky1l8id5Kt-r8c6TPBLD2-i-I/s1600/DSC08284.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="RTL-SDR, shortwave, comparison, shootout, review, Ham-It-Up, SDR Up 100, adapter, SDRSharp" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAI-m1tXwxVsK5Mov1SIelTiU2gE1A5cJ1VHoZaZLBDg8S9DDXBMoBshOCqpEyzS_v2RW3d9SNi4KCmQc3qkZjAO8QAZ4po__fm_VJVL1uxR2jEsM7hrky1l8id5Kt-r8c6TPBLD2-i-I/s320/DSC08284.JPG" height="240" title="Ham-It-Up" width="320" /></a></div></h2><i><b>At least, you can receive shortwave.</b> </i><br />The Ham-It-Up is an excellent product for listening to major broadcast stations with an outdoor discone; the pass-through switch enables simple and quick exploration of signals below 30 MHz without the need to change antennas. Powered with an USB cable, the package takes up little space and is easy to use: if you see a signal in SDRSharp chances are <b>you'll hear something. </b><br />Apart from that novel fact there's no reason to buy one.<br /><b>Compared to the SDR-100, the Ham-It-Up is so deaf it needs a hearing aid.</b> To put this into perspective, the Ham-It-Up with a 6m wire is about equal to an ICOM IC-R5 (small communications receiver) with an outdoor discone, and comparatively worse than a Grundig G3 with a built-in telescopic antenna. Simply put, the SDR-100 is light years ahead for weak signals, at the cost of noise pickup. At half the size a suitable enclosure is easier to find, and 9 and 12V power options are just the cherry on the cake.<br /><b>If you are new to shortwave</b> radio spend your 50 dollars on a second-hand portable from eBay.<br /><b>For everyone else, I recommend the SDR-100 over the Ham-It-Up.</b><br /><br /><h2><i>Update 1: Shielding, Aerials, Settings and Images</i></h2><br /><a href="http://www.rtl-sdr.com/upconverter-comparison-nooelec-ham-vs-sdr-100/#comments" target="_blank">Due to an interesting comment on RTL-SDR.com</a> let me clear a few things... Regarding this post and in general my attitude to testing, usability and, ESPECIALLY, cost.<br /><br /><b>50 USD </b>results in an upconverter from either manufacturers, so you can listen to shortwave signals. Both lets you do that, but due to the built-in amplifier the SDR-UP 100 lets you receive more signals.<br /><br /><b>Neither up-converters</b> were placed in an metal box, so level field here. RTL stick in a metal box plus all the tricks I detailed in the noise suppression post.<br /><br /><b>The aerial question:</b> the maximum I can or will put out is 20 foot wire. The results show a dramatic difference between the two.<br />Obviously, you can improve reception with more wire, as 20 foot wire is far from ideal. Or an UNUN. Or an antenna tuner. Or moving to the countryside, try 40m wire in an urban environment from a third-floor flat.<br /><br /><b>I am interested in utility and value for money out of the box,</b> so a beginner can read understandable information on which one to choose to hear faraway radio stations - and the SDR Up 100 is better for this purpose.<br /><br /><b>The number-crunching game is pointless for beginners:</b> the primary target audience for this blog are yachties without AIS moaning that a receiver is expensive, people on a budget, non radio people exploring the world of RTL-SDR.<br /><br /><b>Leave comments here please</b><br /><br />Comments are much appreciated, especially if you leave them on this blog, so I can reply them here. Unfortunately, you have to have an account for that, with a name, maybe even a face like some of us do.<br /><br /><h2>Update 2: Comparisons with different gain settings</h2><div><br /></div><div>Tested both upconverters on <a href="https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B7Wlic8Bs6AraXZPVl9kZUJEZlk/edit?usp=sharing" target="_blank">5053</a>, <a href="https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B7Wlic8Bs6ArSEVfcGZVa0ZUOWM/edit?usp=sharing" target="_blank">5910</a>, <a href="https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B7Wlic8Bs6ArekljQmJ2N21PUlU/edit?usp=sharing" target="_blank">6134</a>, <a href="https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B7Wlic8Bs6AraGRvTVd5U3NwRjg/edit?usp=sharing" target="_blank">7350 </a>and <a href="https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B7Wlic8Bs6ArV1h4ekh6MkVLV0E/edit?usp=sharing" target="_blank">9419 </a>kHz, with four and five different gain settings. Click on the frequency numbers to download printscreens below, one file is around 13-14 Mb. </div><div>I consistently found the SDR UP 100 better. An example is 5053 kHz: extremely faint Portuguese voice with the SDR Up with lots of noise, short-wave info tells me possibly R Jornal a Critica FM on 5055kHz. Still, playing with Noise reduction and Gain at the same time results in understandable speech. With the Ham It Up, no matter how I tried I could not get the same results, since I have to increase gain in SDRSharp up to a point where noise swamps the signal. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3FfHzKr_ueDSpGM_o1YO7r-sVMKG6BLQkwqYqoOJ_Q_2zKxRPobNDQmJdKUiU1UowFana9z2c0J4jEZYE67VvVsJRlhyphenhyphen55HFyBgGrskrLNuq0on0CcpgBbBmZ8EXIYHRsT-1_5pMmqTM/s1600/Comparisons+5053kHz.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3FfHzKr_ueDSpGM_o1YO7r-sVMKG6BLQkwqYqoOJ_Q_2zKxRPobNDQmJdKUiU1UowFana9z2c0J4jEZYE67VvVsJRlhyphenhyphen55HFyBgGrskrLNuq0on0CcpgBbBmZ8EXIYHRsT-1_5pMmqTM/s400/Comparisons+5053kHz.jpg" height="400" width="236" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMhNMnw7GOt2zeJkA-zDvd92-StNcrw3nYlDMncSwZpYynRvFUa41JC0qbBVK7xeFZDKyZlPg_Rqd61BG4H0mXLZHTRbGhRwAa6atLtcBS_5F4RKiBA9HZ3OTL60COrP1aTG8DzktLYw4/s1600/Comparisons+5910kHz.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMhNMnw7GOt2zeJkA-zDvd92-StNcrw3nYlDMncSwZpYynRvFUa41JC0qbBVK7xeFZDKyZlPg_Rqd61BG4H0mXLZHTRbGhRwAa6atLtcBS_5F4RKiBA9HZ3OTL60COrP1aTG8DzktLYw4/s320/Comparisons+5910kHz.jpg" height="320" width="231" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbADh7kAuQSEPaGukX2_Xvz3XMoMFgf0xbSgLk1jZ9Eb3ruZu-4TsIeaRTUhrewJ1GoBH-ZRkXgXf6hnGpsqy_g74McbSfwHMZ8F-UOOrw542WC2hvqUKSx7uGplVES1xp0Xt9VfJZ50M/s1600/Comparisons+6134kHz.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbADh7kAuQSEPaGukX2_Xvz3XMoMFgf0xbSgLk1jZ9Eb3ruZu-4TsIeaRTUhrewJ1GoBH-ZRkXgXf6hnGpsqy_g74McbSfwHMZ8F-UOOrw542WC2hvqUKSx7uGplVES1xp0Xt9VfJZ50M/s320/Comparisons+6134kHz.jpg" height="320" width="195" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqwRQ72ld9iGm9UNocy6L6_tT0wwQJAEyYnvbNybG3V0Dw4_KJIxuaoazEIZQg0YKg2_oJGnPBZiIZbJY6qfS4-7Gs9icvPa4E8q4YMxGyn9tDdR1S6_61YUQ_PX8mgQ7jZyqKzzahs8o/s1600/Comparisons+7350kHz.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqwRQ72ld9iGm9UNocy6L6_tT0wwQJAEyYnvbNybG3V0Dw4_KJIxuaoazEIZQg0YKg2_oJGnPBZiIZbJY6qfS4-7Gs9icvPa4E8q4YMxGyn9tDdR1S6_61YUQ_PX8mgQ7jZyqKzzahs8o/s320/Comparisons+7350kHz.jpg" height="320" width="196" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8e7kKJhlzwxBQvmF-cfwHImGE0FH98adznnnQvvGdyMvGTzaydXNmImLxa895KyfCay7XXu8kBxXzDCiMQqK7RV0nRGZJYuu6tbX5iHpBDL5Z3D6k7qs2Oje9Yx6xlD-pvq1Ckd7Fj40/s1600/Comparisons+9419kHz.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8e7kKJhlzwxBQvmF-cfwHImGE0FH98adznnnQvvGdyMvGTzaydXNmImLxa895KyfCay7XXu8kBxXzDCiMQqK7RV0nRGZJYuu6tbX5iHpBDL5Z3D6k7qs2Oje9Yx6xlD-pvq1Ckd7Fj40/s320/Comparisons+9419kHz.jpg" height="320" width="192" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><h2>Update 3: Reply from Adam, the maker of SDR UP 100.</h2><br />Adam has to say about my suggestions:<br /><br /><span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;">"Regarding your notes for the improvement, they are all in place.</span><br /><span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;">The guide line when constructing the upconverter is to have the unit with costs up to 50 USD.</span><br /><span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;">I have plenty addons and improvements that can be included in the design but then, it will not cost the 50 USD but 100 USD and then we are entering another price level.</span><br /><br clear="none" style="font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;" /><span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;">I agree, with a small investment, the various power connector system can be added.</span><br /><span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;">The cost of the led diode is minor and all gadgets are not so expensive.</span><br /><br clear="none" style="font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;" /><span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;">My first idea was to have a descent reception using the peace of wire, because this is the unit built for those users who will use a peace of wire, and the unit shoul be able to receive the signals with that antenna.</span><br /><span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;">If the unit require full size resonant antenna, than this is not the product for everyday user.</span><br /><br clear="none" style="font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;" /><span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;">If you compare this upconverter together with the stick against the expensive 800USD sdr receivers the difference is only that they have the dedicated bandpass filters, attenuator and a better AD converter."</span></div><div><br /></div>Many thanks for the above. Adam can be reached at adam9a4qvwashington@yahoo.com, remove the US capital to get his proper email.<br /><br /><h2>Update 4: Reply from Nooelec, the maker of the Ham-It-Up.</h2><br /><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;">Your review is thorough and well-written. I find it great that you covered aspects other than performance.</span><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /><br /><span style="background-color: white;">However, the performance review is not even close to apples to apples. As you are aware, there is no LNA on the 'Ham It Up' upconverter itself. There are quite a few reasons for that.<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span></span><br /><br /><span style="background-color: white;">1. An LNA on-board limits options as it would be fixed-gain. Variable-gain would be exceedingly expensive.</span><br /><span style="background-color: white;">2. An LNA should really be placed near the antenna if the antenna run is long. That cannot be done if it is built into the upconverter.</span><br /><span style="background-color: white;">3. The appropriate gain should be dependent on the frequency or frequencies of interest and antenna being used.</span><br /><br /><span style="background-color: white;">There is no chance that the 'Ham It Up' could possibly perform as well as it should without any gain in front of it. It's not a fair performance comparison. If anything, you should certainly specify as much in the performance section of the article.<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span></span><br /><br /><span style="background-color: white;">If you really wanted to do a better comparison, you would either insert the same amount of gain in front of the Ham It Up, or take the signal from after the LNA on the Up-100 and insert into the Ham It Up upconversion path. If you need assistance with this please contact us.<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span></span><br /><br /><span style="background-color: white;">You also fail to note that there are advantages to a socketed oscillator, as on the Ham It Up, insomuch as it can be very easily replaced with an even better clock-source for those who have one at their disposal. We ship the oscillators off-board so that it is more likely to survive international transit.</span><br /><br /><span style="background-color: white;">The Up-100 is a good upconverter, much better than other designs we've seen. We have one here at the lab that we have used to compare performance. The performance is very similar with the same amount of gain in front. This is not surprising, since the actual frequency mixing is done by the same ADE-1 and the Up-100 uses quality filtering components as does the Ham It Up. The only differences you should see when doing a legitimate comparison test is the differences between the filtering components used on the two upconverters.</span></span></span><br /><br /><h3>Update 5: Thoughts after manufacturer's responses</h3><div><br /></div><b>Deep respect to both manufacturers </b>for replying to this review; it shows that both truly care about their product. I added Nooelec's response to the performance section as suggested as it was a good idea.<br /><b>The reason I did this review </b>is to find out which upconverter is better for 50 USD; I define better as more enjoyable, easier to use, capable of providing a signal I can listen to, out of the box.<br />Some readers fail to grasp the fact that both upconverters cost 50 dollars, so they are competitors. LNA or no LNA. A friend asks me which one to buy: I point to the SDR Up 100. Ham It up for 30? Sure. Same price? SDR Up 100.<br /><b>Out of the box, you hear more</b> with the SDR UP 100. Even after playing with gain settings, I could not get the same performance out of the Ham It Up.<br />At the end of the day you pay your money and you take your chances: order both, enjoy both.<br /><br />Ham-It-Up technical information and user Guide here: <a href="https://code.google.com/p/opendous/wiki/Upconverter#SDR_Software_Tuning_Instructions">https://code.google.com/p/opendous/wiki/Upconverter#SDR_Software_Tuning_Instructions</a><br /><br /><h3>If you enjoyed this article, or wish to support this blog, </h3><br /><u>... <a href="http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HCIPSQY" target="_blank">go to Amazon and buy my book</a>. </u> Tips and tricks in the book will save time and money, reduce frustration with computer settings and help you build the best antenna system from shortwave to microwave. Detailed and illustrated step-by-step descriptions on easy-to-do antennas, from shortwave to microwave.<br />Basically all you need to know <u>to enjoy radio.</u></div><br />Akoshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04062652939032964739noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4253307684293817917.post-13489478383538281562013-09-13T09:10:00.000-07:002016-02-25T14:35:02.739-08:00Review: SDR UP 100<meta content='3;URL=http://rtlsdr4everyone.blogspot.com/p/sdr-up-100-review.html ' http-equiv='refresh'/>
<b>What you need to know:</b> for 50 USD you get the same performance as a dedicated shortwave receiver, easier to use with better sound quality. Recommended.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0fklKe_lm_av2DIoBKi-kVvFuzE6j0dNh_qdiM_Ei3L-wlW_6hiIY0V7-_31u4VTekzPqquGd7namt55yxBTEklsxL9IfdXHyDtw8g1twME0j4bFxMhsG-axMzftADZRCQjVuX9CSr-M/s1600/01+Upconverter+Size.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="RTL-SDR, shortwave, Upconverter" border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0fklKe_lm_av2DIoBKi-kVvFuzE6j0dNh_qdiM_Ei3L-wlW_6hiIY0V7-_31u4VTekzPqquGd7namt55yxBTEklsxL9IfdXHyDtw8g1twME0j4bFxMhsG-axMzftADZRCQjVuX9CSr-M/s320/01+Upconverter+Size.jpg" title="Upconverter SIze comparison" width="218" /></a></div>
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<h2>
HF Upconverter SDR Up 100</h2>
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<b>Available from </b>the following website: <a href="http://upconverterup-100.blogspot.com/">http://upconverterup-100.blogspot.com</a>.<br />
Works by adding 125 MHz to the signal received, so your RTL stick will understand signals below 30 Mhz. It also has a filter, so signals above 55 MHz will not bother your reception.<br />
<b>Costs 40 euros / 50 USD delivered </b>to your door, delivery to Ireland took 5 days. You pay for the item via PayPal when it arrives, so no worries for shipping.<br />
<b>It is physically small</b>, about the size of a Zippo lighter. Antenna IN and antenna OUT connectors are SMA female.<br />
<b>Amplification </b>is built-in, automatically increases the received signal 63 times (18dB). It is so effective gain in SDRSharp must be set very precisely, even one move on the control panel will kill all received signals (called overload).<br />
<b>Power </b>is supplied via two pins, in the bubble wrap envelope an A4 page shows schematics, so you can identify positive and negative. Soldering and antenna connectors are first-rate, looks and feels solid. In over six weeks of testing and after connecting antennas many times there is no play, no movement.<br />
<b>Works with </b>9 to 15 volts, so a brick 9V battery or a 12 V car battery works. Manufacturer says 50mA draw, real-life mobile performance is 7-8 hours from an unbranded 9V battery. There is no visual indicator, no LED to show if power is OK, battery dies = stops working.<br />
<b>At home </b>I power it with a dedicated car 12V battery. No top-up charge for the last six weeks - still works OK.<br />
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<h2>
Testing Setup</h2>
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<b>6 meter (20 foot) wire </b>from a window, connected to coax cable - Upconverter - RTL stick. City center location, electrically very noisy.<br />
Noise reduction as per the precious entry on this blog, ferrites on the coax going to the antenna wire.<br />
Automatic Gain control turned off in SDRSharp, set in Configuration between 2-5.<br />
Set the frequency at 125 MHz plus the frequency of interest, so 132 MHz displayed will be 7 MHz.<br />
<b>Sampling rate at 1.024 MSPS</b> so I see 1 MHz chunk of the radio spectrum. Broadcasting signals are continuous, easily identifiable from the waterfall display.<br />
<b>Digital Noise Reduction </b>is your friend with strong stations: click on a peak or line in the waterfall display, set pleasurable noise limit, get astonishing voice quality.<br />
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<h2>
Performance<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNcXMQkfhMCwIbWmUaj4-YIpIQvsZr9QXcgbK79Yzia3e5oRWYrIRx9Hj5IOXlr1jws7YZFVPZd_pBA7Ggc_wNJukJDdvVkLHcJMImGHN5js2vi_b561spiB-Fb0FPQEbjW67xs70_6t8/s1600/02+6089+Caribbean+bacon+English+voice+6112+km.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="RTL-SDR, shortwave, Upconverter" border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNcXMQkfhMCwIbWmUaj4-YIpIQvsZr9QXcgbK79Yzia3e5oRWYrIRx9Hj5IOXlr1jws7YZFVPZd_pBA7Ggc_wNJukJDdvVkLHcJMImGHN5js2vi_b561spiB-Fb0FPQEbjW67xs70_6t8/s320/02+6089+Caribbean+bacon+English+voice+6112+km.jpg" title="Signal received from 6112 km. " width="244" /></a></div>
</h2>
<br />
<b>No number crunching here;</b> I go by my ears. All the usual players come in easily, propaganda from Radio China International, Voice of Russia / America / Korea etc are like FM broadcast. You do not have to turn a dial or remember a setting - save the frequency, set noise reduction and enjoy.<br />
<b>Tired of speech? </b>Ethnic music from the Middle East, religious programming from the States, man hitting stuff with kitchen utensils from the Far East all booming in. I have the adapter for over six weeks, still every night I sit down with expectation and a "what tonight" attitude - the ease and accessibility, combined with easy station saving rekindled my interest in shortwave.<br />
<b>Filtering works, </b>the strongest local FM station barely audible when tuned.<br />
<b>Looking for distant signals? </b>With only a 6 meter wire I got understandable speech from the Caribbean, Caribbean Beacon from Anguilla on 6090 kHz.<br />
<b>Fun for a long time; </b>Morse code and digital mode transmissions are a possibility, if you're into fiddling with software. For HF Fax I recommend JVComm32, thought the local fishermen and NOAA satellites at 137 MHz are more colorful.<br />
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<h2>
Standalone vs software defined - price, usability, fun</h2>
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<b>Standalone: </b>80-100 USD for a good one, 200 is top-of-the-range, 5000+ USD for pro equipment. With bargain basement 20 USD wonders you buy frustration.<br />
<b>RTL stick advantages:</b> huge screen to see signals, easier tuning, better speech quality.<br />
<b>Standalone radio advantages:</b> compact and portable solution, works off cheap batteries, no learning curve. Turning dials instead of clicking a mouse, more intimate "what-comes-next" feel.<br />
<b>Buy a shortwave adapter if</b> you're happy with computer-based solutions or you need to use capabilities for a goal, e.g. Weather charts or decoding digital modes.<br />
<b>Order a good shortwave receiver</b> such as the <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Grundig-Globe-Traveler-Portable-Shortwave/dp/B001QTXKEW" target="_blank">Eton G3</a> for 100 USD if you need standalone capability, a backup or wish to listen to far-flung signals without a laptop or the hassle of mating radio and a laptop.<br />
<div>
<b>The best is both: </b>get this upconverter for home, especially if you have suitable space for antennas, and enjoy your portable while out and about. For nature outings (I hate city electrical noise) I always have a laptop with the discone and the QFH taking up the back seat, so the upconverter and wire is not a factor. For a shorter period the portable soothes the withdrawal and good enough with the telescopic antenna. </div>
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<h2>
Competition</h2>
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<b>Direct competition </b>is Nooelec's Ham-It-Up upconverter for the same price, thought the Nooelec one has a pass-through switch so you only have to connect a different antenna (or use an antenna switch) for frequencies above 30 MHz. Watch this space, I have one on order for a direct comparison.<br />
<b>Around 70 USD </b>you'll get upconverters with two or three antenna inputs.<br />
<b>100 USD and up </b>RTL stick and shortwave adaptor integrated into a USB stick, but I think at this point the primary advantage of software defined radio (Price) disappears.<br />
<b>200 USD</b> buys a stick (Funcube Dongle Pro) for all signals this side of microwave, better performance then an RTL stick (at 15x cost)and no hassle with drivers.<br />
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<h2>
Final thoughts</h2>
<br />
For half the price of a good shortwave receiver the same performance on your laptop - you give up buttons and tactile feel, and gain ease of use and accessibility.<br />
The number of broadcasting stations, amateur operators and digital modes on shortwave is staggering; for the 50 USD admission fee you get an easy-to use adapter with good performance. On expensive and dedicated shortwave receivers the frequency display screen and the buttons are small; with this setup I can see 1 MHz worth of signals in Full HD on a 24" screen.<br />
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<h2>
Further reading and useful websites</h2>
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<b>Shortwave background </b>info if you're new to the topic (Wiki): <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shortwave_radio">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shortwave_radio</a><br />
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<b>Available HF upconverters </b>glossary here: <a href="http://blog.kf7lze.net/2012/09/14/round-up-of-rtlsdr-upconverter-choices/">http://blog.kf7lze.net/2012/09/14/round-up-of-rtlsdr-upconverter-choices/</a><br />
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<b>To know what you're hearing see </b><a href="http://www.short-wave.info/" target="_blank">Short-Wave Info</a>.<br />
<b><br /></b><b>English shortwave broadcasts</b> are listed on <a href="http://www.primetimeshortwave.com/" target="_blank">Primetime Shortwave</a>.<br />
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Shortwave antenna info at <a href="http://www.w8ji.com/long_wire_antenna.htm">http://www.w8ji.com/long_wire_antenna.htm</a>Akoshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04062652939032964739noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4253307684293817917.post-55218896084540631522013-09-04T18:10:00.000-07:002016-02-25T14:36:55.734-08:00Reducing electrical noise<meta content='3;URL=http://rtlsdr4everyone.blogspot.com/p/reducing-electrical-noise.html ' http-equiv='refresh'/>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><h2><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsI9hyesDIs9xxzrxCwq41YP5YgAZfmX3vizcAerzep3_3Y1IOr3X7KyINEcuVvLiES5Q0bOx4BcmNGkWB4wbErIbDKuU9MOLjgf_b3_W55-u8TuW0MK9dzagiwFQBDQQKGMqwNzo_rdM/s1600/00+comparison+chart.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img alt="RTL-SDR, EMI, RFI, Noise reduction, noise suppression, SDRSharp, " border="0" height="217" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsI9hyesDIs9xxzrxCwq41YP5YgAZfmX3vizcAerzep3_3Y1IOr3X7KyINEcuVvLiES5Q0bOx4BcmNGkWB4wbErIbDKuU9MOLjgf_b3_W55-u8TuW0MK9dzagiwFQBDQQKGMqwNzo_rdM/s640/00+comparison+chart.jpg" title="RTL-SDR noise reduction methods comparison chart" width="640" /></a></h2>- You can use alu foil, but make sure it touches the metal part of the USB plug.<br />- Remove the metal support from the USB extension cable on the end where you connect the RTL stick. This will eliminate noise picked up by the USB extension cable.<br /> - If you have a spare car battery, connect the metal part of USB plug to the negative terminal.<br />- Mobile operation or no car battery? Wrap the center conductor of coax around the metal part of the USB plug, then place the stick in the middle of coiled coax.<br /><br /><h2>Testing setup</h2>Your antenna receives noise and signal. Without an antenna any signal received is by the RTL stick and the cables, and you do not want that.<br /><b>For this test:</b> Nooelec RTL-SDR 820T stick, max gain, no antenna. Weak local FM radio station signal 5/5, clear and enjoyable. That is unwanted signal entering the reception chain.<br />On the images the middle signal is the radio station - that should not be there, smaller peak is better.<br />Also note the waterfall display for received signal strength.<br /><h2><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQUAz5D0kUUgIKgQnU_FdaNQWrWGLRk3s4zKxIkyJG-WGhHsKqjHWBLQITAuhfglzjk1WfKn2BbN-I-j7Dck2OQ0RNIppmDeR0ohKRQNXMTyHgsX47RbSEk-iKKCrI_AXFM7mWrRFUWMo/s1600/10+RTL+stick+nesting+inside+coax.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="RTL-SDR, EMI, RFI, Noise reduction, noise suppression, SDRSharp, " border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQUAz5D0kUUgIKgQnU_FdaNQWrWGLRk3s4zKxIkyJG-WGhHsKqjHWBLQITAuhfglzjk1WfKn2BbN-I-j7Dck2OQ0RNIppmDeR0ohKRQNXMTyHgsX47RbSEk-iKKCrI_AXFM7mWrRFUWMo/s200/10+RTL+stick+nesting+inside+coax.jpg" title="RTL stick nesting inside coax" width="200" /></a>Results</h2><br /><b>Direct vs USB cable connection:</b> USB cable (76cm) increased noise by 13 dB.<br /><b>USB plug metal connected to 1m coax:</b> coax cable center conductor connected to the metal support of the USB plug. Decreased noise by 7db.<br /><b>USB plug metal connected to 10m wire:</b> further noise reduction by 5dB.<br /><b>USB plug metal connected to 12V car battery negative (-) terminal:</b> noise almost completely eliminated.<br /><b>USB plug support connected to 10m coax, RTL stick nesting in the middle:</b> noise completely eliminated.<br /><b>Aluminum foil, metal cans, metal enclosures:</b> aluminum foil NOT touching either the antenna jack or USB connector, half roll of aluminum foil: no effect. Metal from Seven 0.5 l cans wrapped on top of the alu foil: no effect. Metal enclosure: no effect. Note that if the alu foil/metal/enclosure is connected to the metal part of the USB plug, immediate noise reduction of 15-20 dB, station still heard, speech distinguishable.<br /><br /><h2>USB connector mod<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP-WWVGckVx_OjA_U2yNwGvj7IxSWnnVkfjepsKM_gyBSVDrtVsS5aiZoB5-1sq0-xNevA_N8RLkp8bl0MqXNmLGeyQ-mUtVNzC5Bd7Wqx_zFH12sj3Ib-sxKWhsaBsqGz4Q6v0ukY8AM/s1600/11+usb+metal+support+removed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="RTL-SDR, EMI, RFI, Noise reduction, noise suppression, SDRSharp, " border="0" height="191" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP-WWVGckVx_OjA_U2yNwGvj7IxSWnnVkfjepsKM_gyBSVDrtVsS5aiZoB5-1sq0-xNevA_N8RLkp8bl0MqXNmLGeyQ-mUtVNzC5Bd7Wqx_zFH12sj3Ib-sxKWhsaBsqGz4Q6v0ukY8AM/s320/11+usb+metal+support+removed.jpg" title="USB extension cable mod" width="320" /></a></div></h2>A reduction of 10 dB, stick still safely connected.<br /><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Roboto, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.333333969116211px; line-height: 20px;">Remove the USB metal part that keeps the RTL stick in place, from the end of the USB extension lead where you connect the RTL stick. </span><br />Only USB signal and power connectors remain. Mow shielding in the cable is not connected to the signal chain.<br />Do not remove the other end of the USB extension lead, the one going into the computer USB port, no further reduction realized, but the extension cable will easily come out of the port.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: right;"></div><h2>Organize cables at home<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqqW2CPvKSBcBS1ItA849itxQXDk7QQnAdOe4oaIvA9GYT6hwiFOuyiTygegE6oDCNYgCFY-DmaKcnkunGrO6pRGF0FPmkkQjvLFxEM5hBryEct6JNl6_N_q3190uMpj7jNTTzq8FAAIg/s1600/Cable+cabinet+open+and+closed+comparison.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" height="291" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqqW2CPvKSBcBS1ItA849itxQXDk7QQnAdOe4oaIvA9GYT6hwiFOuyiTygegE6oDCNYgCFY-DmaKcnkunGrO6pRGF0FPmkkQjvLFxEM5hBryEct6JNl6_N_q3190uMpj7jNTTzq8FAAIg/s320/Cable+cabinet+open+and+closed+comparison.jpg" title="PC Case Noise Containment" width="320" /></a></div></h2><br />If it has a plug or battery, it will radiate electrical noise, either the cable / power lead or the actual device itself.<br />A simple solution is to place cables and extension leads into a computer case or a similar metal enclosure.<br />In the following example, unmodified original RTL stick, no antenna so it only picks up noise, connected with 1.24m (5 foot) USB extension cable. Stick resting on the edge of the PC case where I keep cables/extension leads.<br /><b>PC case panel off: </b>Local station washed away in electrical noise, audibly louder noise.<br /><b>PC case </b><b>panel on:</b> Relief from the loud noise, local station understandable.<br /><b>If I'm after a distant signal: </b>laptop unplugged, electricity turned off in the house, candles on. Optionally: LNA and shortwave upconverter running off batteries.<br /><b>Best is no electricity</b>: listen to a far-flung Caribbean station in candlelight with your significant other.<br /><br /><h2>Ferrites<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDn8Wyo3f-VLbsOR7PU1ElyMJSJg_9E96nIczQr6FuIiTS6XSAPFGZKvGJMog8-P06l5jTxtRvPW8DB5y5wrtavxVwG8I6syB-FzVmRruUHciKPNTJNmGFntyBN78FGF_HUOb7ylAG2Wo/s1600/USB+cable+with+and+without+ferrites.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="196" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDn8Wyo3f-VLbsOR7PU1ElyMJSJg_9E96nIczQr6FuIiTS6XSAPFGZKvGJMog8-P06l5jTxtRvPW8DB5y5wrtavxVwG8I6syB-FzVmRruUHciKPNTJNmGFntyBN78FGF_HUOb7ylAG2Wo/s400/USB+cable+with+and+without+ferrites.jpg" width="400" /></a></div></h2><br /><b>Ferrites are </b>rings, beads or clip-on pieces of iron used to reduce noise.<br />Coil the USB cable around a ferrite ring, or use clamp-on ferrites.<br /><b>Use ferrites </b>at the terminations of your<br />- USB cable between computer and stick,<br />- on the cable between stick and antenna.<br /><br /><b>6-7 dB reduction of noise </b>visible, audible decrease of the FM station with 4 turns on a ferrite ring and ferrite beads on the USB cable (USB plug metal removed both ends).<br />Also did experiments with turns around ferrite rings - 8 turns made no difference.<br /><b>Conclusion: </b>invest in clamp-on ferrites, the bigger and more, the better.<br /><br /><h2>Maximum noise reduction</h2>Stick wrapped in alu foil, foil touching the metal part of the USB plug, connected by an USB extension cable with the metal removed. Stick inside a metal enclosure, in the middle of 10m coax coil.<br /><b>Result: </b>no signal whatsoever, FM band is clear, waterfall is uniform blue.<br /><b>Optional:</b> ferrites if you have them.<br /><h2>Closing thoughts</h2>If you chase very weak signals, such as shortwave with an upconverter, or a weather satellite just on your horizon you need the best noise reduction solution.<br />In all of the above tests I had gain to the maximum, so any reduction is clearly visible.<br />Noise as called here (same thing, complicated words): electromagnetic interference (EMI) or radio frequency interference (RFI).<br />You know a better option? Curious to hear from you, use the comment section here.<br /><b><br /></b><b><br /></b><b>Note on Nooelec:</b> As their customer support might recommend the hardware guide on this blog, Nooelec sent a free RTL-SDR stick to my former high school physics lab.<br />I like this attitude.<br /><br />Akoshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04062652939032964739noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4253307684293817917.post-47401168661237200552013-08-30T10:39:00.000-07:002016-02-25T14:38:03.896-08:00Review: LNA4ALL Antenna Amplifier<meta content='3;URL=http://rtlsdr4everyone.blogspot.com/p/summary-buy-one-works-as-advertised.html ' http-equiv='refresh'/>
<h3>Summary: buy one, works as advertised.</h3><div><br /></div><h2>What is it?</h2><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIYT9H2xh1iA1Js-WTbQIdzpj9HMIfagoHLqy30WoilIZVsakwqgZHX8WSlXwnmN3aIjz4MYqITmzNpPgt9yorhfjCYi48evil38bV4lUTl_mHZb_QDgGCAtpM49169GeF56LYEaXpOOM/s1600/01+LNA+Board+original.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="LNA, RTL-SDR, SDRSharp, ADSB, Weather Satellites, AIS, antenna, setup, testing, review, comparison, DIY, Homebrew, " border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIYT9H2xh1iA1Js-WTbQIdzpj9HMIfagoHLqy30WoilIZVsakwqgZHX8WSlXwnmN3aIjz4MYqITmzNpPgt9yorhfjCYi48evil38bV4lUTl_mHZb_QDgGCAtpM49169GeF56LYEaXpOOM/s200/01+LNA+Board+original.JPG" height="136" title="LNA board" width="200" /></a></div><br />A small electronic device making radio signals 100-150 times stronger.<br />Officially called a low-noise amplifier, LNA for short.<br />Costs 25 euros delivered,<br />helps you hear and see more targets of interest.<br /><br /><h2>Why?</h2><br />- To run the RTLstick with less gain,<br />- To get the maximum from your antennas,<br />- To add range to your reception ability.<br /><br /><h2>Testing setup</h2>Commercial radio, airplane speech, Weather satellite signals, AIS and airplane position signals are tested. If the LNA delivers as promised on these frequencies, we can assume that it will also perform in the band of your interest.<br />Antenna is a broadband, commercially-available discone to eliminate antenna errors.<br />No number-crunching for the review, check the images for exact dB values.<br />I paid for my LNA, and have no business connection with the manufacturer.<br /><br /><h2>Commercial radio / Upconverter range<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7g9q6sCUZWklDpcRCfmrUHkYiOdcO6VNYPvEFs0ab4TTqP8q_MPVeQ11r2q76cK6QPvNuvq7P5jAqqT53Zgjl40LqAphK5VqqBpAhGcRezqwWnpjJuF1Yzfycbh324l9s0j2XU7Z51IQ/s1600/02+Commercial+radio.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="LNA, RTL-SDR, SDRSharp, ADSB, Weather Satellites, AIS, antenna, setup, testing, review, comparison, DIY, Homebrew, " border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7g9q6sCUZWklDpcRCfmrUHkYiOdcO6VNYPvEFs0ab4TTqP8q_MPVeQ11r2q76cK6QPvNuvq7P5jAqqT53Zgjl40LqAphK5VqqBpAhGcRezqwWnpjJuF1Yzfycbh324l9s0j2XU7Z51IQ/s320/02+Commercial+radio.jpg" height="161" title="Commercial radio Performance Comparison" width="320" /></a></div></h2>Signal strength increase as promised.<br />This band if of particular interest to those who have an upconverter for shortwave reception.<br /><br /><h2><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEiwaSYwDjjnPIOqzyEpTziiQnBnHXaQ1WfuIB5lcp3ekzPCue_cdODcSF9nvmGqzW087yq9Se3dQsf8-fSsPo42JztuE8HwZM4ItZVd9y-WkWQeU1hPYHng0q5ycUmif9E8AbiGVfE7A/s1600/03+Airband.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="LNA, RTL-SDR, SDRSharp, ADSB, Weather Satellites, AIS, antenna, setup, testing, review, comparison, DIY, Homebrew, " border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEiwaSYwDjjnPIOqzyEpTziiQnBnHXaQ1WfuIB5lcp3ekzPCue_cdODcSF9nvmGqzW087yq9Se3dQsf8-fSsPo42JztuE8HwZM4ItZVd9y-WkWQeU1hPYHng0q5ycUmif9E8AbiGVfE7A/s320/03+Airband.jpg" height="159" title="Airband comparison" width="320" /></a>Airband</h2><div><br /></div><div>Performance slightly better than expected.</div>Airplane chatter between Plane and Approach/Tower/Ground comes booming in, much better audio, pilot seems talking to you.<br />Also tested with an Icom IC-R5 handheld receiver, no need to use outside discone as clear reception indoors.<br /><br /><div><h2><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwJ3QUCb0eldw6LlLvyXngewEXIM79GPzaR5gOGQlwQzSzahNZ-hTTWRJFP9P21qzOXXCCBJjcYLRQSUZdJUbT0uaVVcVWXJmq7s2fMktsHNsERdyi6RTA1xE4284ob0oUFstsAiagTKo/s1600/04+Weather+Satellites.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="LNA, RTL-SDR, SDRSharp, ADSB, Weather Satellites, AIS, antenna, setup, testing, review, comparison, DIY, Homebrew, NOAA, APT" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwJ3QUCb0eldw6LlLvyXngewEXIM79GPzaR5gOGQlwQzSzahNZ-hTTWRJFP9P21qzOXXCCBJjcYLRQSUZdJUbT0uaVVcVWXJmq7s2fMktsHNsERdyi6RTA1xE4284ob0oUFstsAiagTKo/s200/04+Weather+Satellites.jpg" height="200" title="NOAA APT signals with and without LNA" width="199" /></a>Weather Satellites / NOAA APT reception</h2></div><div><br /></div><div>Signals are visibly stronger in the waterfall display (quickly connected the LNA during a recent pass), less banded noise in images, same noise floor requires less gain in SDRSharp. </div><div>As less gain is required, the stick runs cooler, less internal noise is generated, images are clearer. </div><div><br /></div><h2>Marine Band / AIS<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvF_a5IFh16Cte-FcZv6JJTX6hScsLhYfZ8D-UnKY9BrKBL-BiTxwEuHH_LW55_kBXVsZRW1NGxgcvjEv5_jz1YVv-a2RsqPRVEhrCgQvMtkJbZreDXoAqfisQYUx4e4iUhM1_uZC9c28/s1600/05+AIS.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="LNA, RTL-SDR, SDRSharp, ADSB, Weather Satellites, AIS, antenna, setup, testing, review, comparison, DIY, Homebrew, AIS" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvF_a5IFh16Cte-FcZv6JJTX6hScsLhYfZ8D-UnKY9BrKBL-BiTxwEuHH_LW55_kBXVsZRW1NGxgcvjEv5_jz1YVv-a2RsqPRVEhrCgQvMtkJbZreDXoAqfisQYUx4e4iUhM1_uZC9c28/s200/05+AIS.jpg" height="117" title="AIS Signal Path" width="200" /></a></div></h2><div>Increased gain step-by-step until all four vessels in port showed up in Shipplotter, first by MMSI, then by name.</div>Amplifier connected only half the gain was necessary, performance on par with manufacturer specification.<br /><br /><br /><h2>Airplane position signals / ADSB<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjKjn1QnSCvnylkddRaQD7g7siRsyfjLac2AZOQpHdyyNkF-PTiXZYs_7AIroqb8x5TJfCBUxVYAkVoF-A8L6O_u2jXozJF5i8_ZP394MCTac2skUj0SRQwUAcjrZZcuSez6xXDwfL-24/s1600/06+ADSB.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="LNA, RTL-SDR, SDRSharp, ADSB, Weather Satellites, AIS, antenna, setup, testing, review, comparison, DIY, Homebrew, NOAA, APT" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjKjn1QnSCvnylkddRaQD7g7siRsyfjLac2AZOQpHdyyNkF-PTiXZYs_7AIroqb8x5TJfCBUxVYAkVoF-A8L6O_u2jXozJF5i8_ZP394MCTac2skUj0SRQwUAcjrZZcuSez6xXDwfL-24/s320/06+ADSB.jpg" height="320" title="Planeplotter with LNA - max range 52nm" width="304" /></a></div></h2>Without ampifier, maximum range is 46nm (83km).<br />With the LNA, maximum range is 52nm (94km).<br />ADSB Sharp with Tuner AGC on, adsbScope for monitoring, maximum range and aircraft not dropped selected. Monitoring local traffic for few hours and using range rings to establish maximum range, all equipment including antenna height (4 metres or 12 foot) the same during testing.<br /><br /><br /><h2>Ordering and customer service </h2><br />The LNA under review is <a href="http://lna4all.blogspot.ie/" target="_blank">available from this website: LNA For All.</a><br />Contact the seller, Adam directly via email for orders: adam9a4qvwashington@yahoo.com/ Remove the capital of the USA to get his real email: name (4letters) and callsign (5 characters).<br />Seller only charges you when the item arrives, no worries over items getting lost. Payment via Paypal.<br />Shipping to Ireland took 5 working days, amplifier in a bubble wrap envelope with drawings.<br />Communication is good, questions via email answered quickly, technical shortcomings revealed openly.<br />Amplifier worked out of the box. <br /><br /><h2>What you get</h2><br />A small circuit board, no power supply, no instructions where goes what, no clue how it works except for a diagram showing components and performance.<br />If you know radio, soldering and electronics, it will make sense, if not, you will turn your 25 euros around, wondering what to do with it and where to start.<br />The manufact<span style="font-family: inherit;">urer states that a "Turn a key solution is delivered" - that's not true. You have to provide power to it.</span><br /><span style="font-family: inherit;">Note to manufacturers: Please send boards - or make it an option - with a red and black wire for power connector. This nonsense with USB connectors, pins and holes should stop. </span><br /><br /><h2>How to make it work</h2><h2><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div></h2><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhOeBNoOjVZ1MjJ9WaDIY8S4sdYcTpTTCNxu4PvXucZD0S6XRDi3CObYxVGCOwXtuQyCeChj-X8JwftZSstNpwgNasBLOiLbtAOLefNSacrmYQLU3AUvF90NcNL4UZfAbFkbD87izIgws/s1600/01+LNA+Board.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; display: inline !important; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img alt="LNA, RTL-SDR, SDRSharp, ADSB, Weather Satellites, AIS, antenna, setup, testing, review, comparison, DIY, Homebrew, NOAA, APT" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhOeBNoOjVZ1MjJ9WaDIY8S4sdYcTpTTCNxu4PvXucZD0S6XRDi3CObYxVGCOwXtuQyCeChj-X8JwftZSstNpwgNasBLOiLbtAOLefNSacrmYQLU3AUvF90NcNL4UZfAbFkbD87izIgws/s200/01+LNA+Board.jpg" height="200" title="LNA connection" width="200" /></a><i>(This is my solution, LNA operational in 10 minutes. Solder if you can or want to)</i><br />In the envelope you get a drawing, bottom left of the page shows a picture of what you have, with writing such as GND and + 8-15VDC.<br />Get a small screw, screw it into the third hole from the left BY HAND.<br />Too much power = too big screw.<br />Screw goes through = small screw.<br />Easy does it, should be just a little bit of resistance as you turn.<br />That screw is electrical power, plus on your battery.<br />All the holes in the four corners are negative, minus sign. Use screws, this time falling through the hole, to create four legs, similar to an oil rig.<br />Create support so the screws to hold the board in place - use a non-conducting material. Ideas: cigarette filter tips (works), scrap plastic from coax cables (might need multiple layers), wall plug fixings (currently in use).<br />Connect a wire to the screw sticking out from the positive, third hole from top left, by wrapping the wire around it. Write plus sign on it so you know later.<br />Connect a wire to one of the screws in the corner, this will be negative.<br /><br />The above method is in use for the last three weeks, the four legs are perfect support for mounting inside a junction box or on a piece of wood.<br /><br /><br /><h2>Power and mobile operation <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8nRQMTmkwVSOOGRWKiX1_iRhYqkwfT6mhikNQIb6Fwotxc9tCwF1tEfWMSP3EN5mqGMwkY-pKyekyVvh0DWL_SMhsmmoUERWGWTo-Gs04bPKka0dM35FaQKkO00EvMew-XQkG_kVbYvg/s1600/02+Working+setup.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8nRQMTmkwVSOOGRWKiX1_iRhYqkwfT6mhikNQIb6Fwotxc9tCwF1tEfWMSP3EN5mqGMwkY-pKyekyVvh0DWL_SMhsmmoUERWGWTo-Gs04bPKka0dM35FaQKkO00EvMew-XQkG_kVbYvg/s320/02+Working+setup.jpg" height="303" width="320" /></a></div></h2>Works with 9 to 15 volts.<br />Officially no over-voltage or wrong polarity protection. <i>My experience is:</i><br />It seems indestructible: if the preamp receives 9V to 15V, connected properly, it will operate.<br />Seems to survive user errors:<br />- 12V car battery, connected the wrong way: amplifier survives.<br />- 12V car battery, short-circuited during operation, sparks everywhere: survives.<br />- Amplifier mounted on top of antenna, no enclosure nor protection, heavy rain: works.<br />- Rain on amplifier: all works fine.<br />A great advantage is that either inexpensive 9V batteries can be used for mobile operation, or directly powered by 12V car batteries; no converter needed.<br />Mount it inside an electrical junction box, power it with a 9V battery and you're ready to go.<br /><br /><h3>If you enjoyed this article, or wish to support this blog, </h3><br /><u>... <a href="http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HCIPSQY" target="_blank">go to Amazon and buy my book</a>. </u> Tips and tricks in the book will save time and money, reduce frustration with computer settings and help you build the best antenna system from shortwave to microwave. Detailed and illustrated step-by-step descriptions on easy-to-do antennas, from shortwave to microwave.<br />Basically all you need to know <u>to enjoy radio.</u>Akoshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04062652939032964739noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4253307684293817917.post-91862509326776126192013-08-23T20:21:00.000-07:002016-02-25T14:40:29.736-08:00Weather Satellites - Software<meta content='3;URL=http://rtlsdr4everyone.blogspot.com/ ' http-equiv='refresh'/>
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For about 25 euros you can receive a weather satellite image like this one.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVBN1YteX9uzm-NFAzAOT1r-lln6YAvpvivuK9kQ08cOC1hG0tNOfj0LWV2ixLSE2uCI5YtGEw0zvstKI1uAqmzJ3LvynvwV1zO9BcPX7rzNpuQKUn_WE8Iwen1_bfsVEaZVWEInpEy7A/s1600/01+NOAA+19+N+Atlantic+QFH.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="RTL-SDR, SDRSharp, WXtoImg, QFH, Software Defined radio, weather satellite image" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVBN1YteX9uzm-NFAzAOT1r-lln6YAvpvivuK9kQ08cOC1hG0tNOfj0LWV2ixLSE2uCI5YtGEw0zvstKI1uAqmzJ3LvynvwV1zO9BcPX7rzNpuQKUn_WE8Iwen1_bfsVEaZVWEInpEy7A/s400/01+NOAA+19+N+Atlantic+QFH.jpg" height="400" title="NOAA 19 WXSat image" width="253" /></a></div><br /><h3>What is this all about?</h3>Around 800 km / 500 miles above your head, weather satellites circle Earth, continuously sending back what they see. You can receive this signal with an RTL stick and create a similar image to the one on the right.<br />Setting up software is just as important as a good antenna, so this guide details software settings.<br />Please read Weather Satellites - Antennas for a suitable antenna and construction tips.<br /><br /><h3><b>Why?</b></h3><br />- Real-time observation of weather systems in your area<br />- Confirmation of other data received, such as WEFAX or NAVTEX signals<br />- Promotes understanding meteorological phenomenon such as lows and highs in colour<br />- Receiving an image from a satellite 800 km above your head is fun, educational (Doppler shift, atmospheric propagation...) and lets you view Earth in glorious detail.<br /><br /><b>What you need</b><br /><br />To create an image you need an antenna to receive the signal, software to understand this signal (SDRSharp, free), and imaging software to create an image from this signal (WXtoImg, free).<br />I assume you have an RTL-SDR stick and installed the software to use it. If not, read the Software Guide on this blog.<br />The imaging software, WXtoImg can be downloaded from here:<br /><br /><a href="http://www.wxtoimg.com/downloads/wxinst21011.exe">http://www.wxtoimg.com/downloads/wxinst21011.exe</a><br /><br />Installation is easy, and once the work flow is understood works very well.<br /><br /><br /><h3>Weather Satellites Background information <table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNPE-ev6fSbr0kpTiOlTLLEyAwjF1PGuScWwm8eO2VlHjSxJoEhlfs6oGatAMxh5qa36u6Tt9YAhy6BoMJLxNS9QhNw49RXuSwyzv2Fi5CrPbzKzbK-EXxJEHqAm-D14v5RHP09rLt4kU/s1600/02+POES+orbit.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="RTL-SDR, SDRSharp, WXtoImg, QFH, Software Defined radio, weather satellite image" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNPE-ev6fSbr0kpTiOlTLLEyAwjF1PGuScWwm8eO2VlHjSxJoEhlfs6oGatAMxh5qa36u6Tt9YAhy6BoMJLxNS9QhNw49RXuSwyzv2Fi5CrPbzKzbK-EXxJEHqAm-D14v5RHP09rLt4kU/s320/02+POES+orbit.gif" height="161" title="Polar Orbiting satellite diagram" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Polar Orbit - Image from NOAA</td></tr></tbody></table></h3><i>(no need to read this to get an image, but good to know)</i><br /><br />Officially called NOAA 15, 18 and 19, they are truck-sized digital cameras with a radio link to Earth. Imagine your digital camera circling an orange, always over the top and bottom of the orange, the North and South Pole. The orange, Earth, is also spinning, so the camera always sees a different part.<br />Satellites continuously take a picture of the earth beneath them, sending this signal back to earth in a way similar to TV signals in the 80's.<br />Because satellites constantly move, you can only see them at a given time.<br />It's a very simplified explanation, read References at the bottom for more info.<br /><br /><h3>Computer tips and setup</h3><br />I use a mid-range laptop with Core i3 processor, 8 GB RAM, running Windows 7 64-bit.<br />Also tested laptops with 1 and 2 GB RAM, was unable to receive images.<br />Weaker computers can not process the signal and decode said signal at the same time.<br /><br />Get better images by<br />- disabling any screen savers (Right click on Desktop, Personalize, bottom right corner)<br />- disabling programs running in the background - small arrow pointing up next to Speaker icon at the bottom right of your screen shows you what you're running.<br />- disconnecting wireless mouse and keyboard<br />- NOT fiddling the touchpad or playing with settings in SDRSharp.<br />Wireless routers had no influence on received images.<br />The RTL stick is covered in 5 layers of cut up aluminum cans, connected to the laptop with a 1 metre extension cable.<br />Antennas are connected with 5 metres of 75-Ohm cable. Tested reception with 17 metres of cable, no difference in received images.<br />Connectors are BNC, or cables twisted together. Makes no visible difference.<br />For antennas read the Weather Satellite Antennas section.<br /><br /><br /><h3>SDRSharp Settings</h3><br />This software uses the signal from the antenna and sends it to the imaging software. You need the following settings:<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_D91i0bjswCfmLmbF24NeXwyo2w4Zcz6AZU0vsEIKPYY81dXohTEI8hhmUkz6FXaYQZwIPtsbjKwG_DvIbaPW7hNVX1OMA6ZrczTjEi_Hh-8CCUVey7JMM4axYy3aGDUk7Jxc9ghnfqY/s1600/02+SDRSharp+NOAA+Radio+Settings.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="RTL-SDR, SDRSharp, WXtoImg, QFH, Software Defined radio, weather satellite image" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_D91i0bjswCfmLmbF24NeXwyo2w4Zcz6AZU0vsEIKPYY81dXohTEI8hhmUkz6FXaYQZwIPtsbjKwG_DvIbaPW7hNVX1OMA6ZrczTjEi_Hh-8CCUVey7JMM4axYy3aGDUk7Jxc9ghnfqY/s400/02+SDRSharp+NOAA+Radio+Settings.jpg" height="228" title="SDRSharp Radio settings for Weather Satellite Reception" width="400" /></a></div><br /><b>Mode: </b>WFM. Others will NOT work.<br /><b>Bandwidth:</b> Write 40000 here, 50000 maximum.<br /><b>Squelch:</b> Off<br /><b>Audio Slider:</b> set it to about 70 percent.<br /><b>Input: </b>Cable Output<br /><b>Output:</b> Cable Input<br /><b>Frequency:</b> You can enter it directly or use the buttons on the top of the screen. Only three frequencies are used - you get them from the imaging software.<br />Satellites are only visible for your radio from a given time, so run SDRSharp 5-10 minutes before the satellite appears. Always double check WFM, 40000, and the Audio settings.<br /><b>Sample Rate:</b> Selecting 1,024 MSPS in Configuration works better.<br /><h3>Gain settings</h3><br /><i>(Explaining how to get the best signal-to-noise ratio. Skip if you're familiar with this)</i><br /><br />Setting up gain in Configuration is the difference between good and bad images. <br />Open up Configure (right to Play and left of the numbers) and see the slider - this controls gain of the stick. More gain (slider to the right) - more signal and noise.<br /><b>Noise is</b> electrical signal you're not interested in - the waves at the bottom of the screen are noise.<br /><b>Signal is</b> what you want - usually a peak in the top display and coloured dots in the bottom screen.<br />Now move the slider slowly to the right and watch the waves (noise) at the bottom rise. Just about when they start to rise is a good starting point.<br /><b>Find a local signal</b> - if you have a big airport nearby google "Airport Name" ATIS - this should give you the airports' info broadcast frequency, tune to it with the big numbers. Hear a voice repeating Landing Runway 30? Good. No airport? Find a local radio, the signal must be continuous.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkVyfFL-KKfVLsDZDecmrEOkIaUhWpvgeUuC_2F9N7WBdNI53dF_3SEMsY2oUkMqfhOQYgFVP30CVYXVPlgk3xjyJMWKQlV_tfXjQMhDFqhlJDlyhQpM3iVJnw3O79kG7uAOWbhHP5_t4/s1600/03+SNR+Ratio+Maximalization.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="RTL-SDR, SDRSharp, WXtoImg, QFH, Software Defined radio, weather satellite image" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkVyfFL-KKfVLsDZDecmrEOkIaUhWpvgeUuC_2F9N7WBdNI53dF_3SEMsY2oUkMqfhOQYgFVP30CVYXVPlgk3xjyJMWKQlV_tfXjQMhDFqhlJDlyhQpM3iVJnw3O79kG7uAOWbhHP5_t4/s640/03+SNR+Ratio+Maximalization.jpg" height="208" title="Maximizing Signal to Noise ratio in SDRSharp" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b>Note the height difference</b> between the signal (the mountain) and the noise (the waves). Increase gain (move the slider to the right) and find the point where the height of the mountain in relation to the waves are the biggest. Stop there.<br />Congratulations, you've set up SDRSharp for the maximum signal-to-noise for that frequency.<br />For weather satellites use this as a starting point, check the image (description on how to below) and increase/decrease according to the image.<br /><b>Increasing gain to maximum </b>will also increase noise, decreasing the height difference between the mountain and the waves. You do not want that.<br /><br /><h3><b>WXtoIMG settings</b></h3><br /><b>Get the latest satellite information:</b> go to File, then to Update Keplers. This gives you the times of satellites. With WiFi it was automatic for me, if not working, go to Options - Internet Options. <b>Information what the software is doing:</b> Bottom left of screen (above blue Microsoft circle) shows you what's happening.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6M3uoL9nLn9tCAZ1VcQpVtmpTwwgSlhjiQVIWWXpook9iFGK875Wzq0Z6ZXjFAGhzCiB-qOpOkkZHThC4iF5t0TScNjRJb_SglYHkkzIP3g5iF9YIvl5wAutsLKdPl4eUGg-RkeDXtFM/s1600/04+WXtoImg+screen+bottom+info.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="RTL-SDR, SDRSharp, WXtoImg, QFH, Software Defined radio, weather satellite image" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6M3uoL9nLn9tCAZ1VcQpVtmpTwwgSlhjiQVIWWXpook9iFGK875Wzq0Z6ZXjFAGhzCiB-qOpOkkZHThC4iF5t0TScNjRJb_SglYHkkzIP3g5iF9YIvl5wAutsLKdPl4eUGg-RkeDXtFM/s320/04+WXtoImg+screen+bottom+info.jpg" height="320" title="WXtoImg screen bottom information" width="289" /></a></div><b>Satellite Pass List,</b> important is the time and frequency of the satellite. The program gets the Time Zone and Date from Windows Settings.<br /><b>Selecting a good satellite pass:</b> the MEL in Satellite Pass list shows the maximum height of the satellite for your location. Zero is the horizon, 90 is directly above you - higher the number, more signal, better image.<br /><b>Location setup:</b> Under Options - Ground Station Location enter your location. Latitude: North is plus, South is Minus. Longitude: East is Plus, West is Minus. Unsure of your location? Google the name of your town with coordinates added after the name of town, e.g. Dallas Coordinates gets you 32.7758° N, 96.7967° W. That will be Lat 32.7758, Long - 96.7967 (West = minus)<br /><b>Audio setup:</b> Under Options - Recording Options Select Cable Output, so the imaging software can hear what the radio software is saying.<br /><br />You're ready to go.<br /><br /><h3>Checklist before receiving your first satellite</h3><br /><b>Do the startup checks 15 minutes before</b> each satellite. During the satellite pass no Facebook, no movies, or you will get horizontal bands in the picture.<br /><b>Connect your stick to the laptop.</b> Run SDRSharp with no antenna attached, test local radio stations - if you can hear them, you need to block the signals by adding more layers of metal around the stick.<br /><b>Connect your antenna,</b> check again local radio stations. You should see peaks, indicating that the antenna is properly connected.<br /><b>Start WXtoImg,</b> check the next satellite pass time and frequency.<br /><b>Tune to</b> the given freqency in SDRsharp. Mode WFM, Bandwidth 40000, No Squelch, Audio to almost maximum, Cable output In and Out selected.<br />Press play in SDRSharp.<br /><b>Switch to WXtoImg</b>, File (top left), Record (seventh from top), bottom of the screen press Manual test.<br /><b>Check signal level.</b> Bottom right of the screen, small meter with number in the middle should be green colour, number should be between 50-60. <br />If yellow, audio is not loud enough - Increase in SDRSharp.<br />If red, audio is too loud - Decrease in SDRSharp.<br />All good? Go to File, then press Stop - second from the bottom.<br />Check complete, peace of mind that software is working properly.<br /><br /><h3>Receiving the image<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFV6i7Cz8oPEfYnI6ic9JX9UwJpGteU17QkG0nnwc5Ia-VYSHylonO0jYY5nq4-0aIK0Pk4lyBV8pchQ89KVsD5PTbkjjoGq7MI7zPo6KVQQ_4yxLyTMdXDrmqjz2pOrFMwc_feSpPCVM/s1600/05+SDRSharp+Receiving+Signal.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="RTL-SDR, SDRSharp, WXtoImg, QFH, Software Defined radio, weather satellite image" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFV6i7Cz8oPEfYnI6ic9JX9UwJpGteU17QkG0nnwc5Ia-VYSHylonO0jYY5nq4-0aIK0Pk4lyBV8pchQ89KVsD5PTbkjjoGq7MI7zPo6KVQQ_4yxLyTMdXDrmqjz2pOrFMwc_feSpPCVM/s200/05+SDRSharp+Receiving+Signal.jpg" height="187" title="SDRSharp Receiving Signal" width="200" /></a></div></h3><br /><b>SDRSharp should be running,</b> check again for WFM, 40000, Audio level and CABLE settings.<br /><b>Start imaging software,</b> go to File, then record. Second option is Record and Auto Process, Check the square next to Create images.<br />Press Auto record. WXtoImg waits for a satellite, bottom left of screen tells you the name, time, and frequency.<br />As soon as the satellite appears on the horizon the bottom of the screen changes, program starts recording and you'll start to see something.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBAz7hLzlo8tT30YIWDod2HuhB596hxbP7SzYG_fLykT1ojcl260tT3tZJDu55b4I9HMDn7N7OxgY7sY2So-dm0rRYy9vlOBI_i7mQpGYL2tCFho-4dd8kaUojOCG6YtZ5xv1mIv_A-NQ/s1600/06+WXtoImg+Enabling+Color+Images.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="RTL-SDR, SDRSharp, WXtoImg, QFH, Software Defined radio, weather satellite image" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBAz7hLzlo8tT30YIWDod2HuhB596hxbP7SzYG_fLykT1ojcl260tT3tZJDu55b4I9HMDn7N7OxgY7sY2So-dm0rRYy9vlOBI_i7mQpGYL2tCFho-4dd8kaUojOCG6YtZ5xv1mIv_A-NQ/s200/06+WXtoImg+Enabling+Color+Images.jpg" height="119" title="WXtoImg Enabling Color Images" width="200" /></a><b>First you'll see</b> only black and white dots, then black and white rows, adding up to something hopefully resembling a satellite image.<br /><b>Let the software finish,</b> then check your final image.<br />Final image is always black and white, you can add color with Enhancements - MCIR Map Colour IR.<br /><br /><h3>Problems</h3><b>Black image only -</b> signal from radio software is not reaching imaging software. Squelch is turned on, or proper CABLE settings are not selected.<br /><br /><b>White and black dots</b> - something is in the way of the antenna so it can not hear the signal. <br />- Place the antenna higher up, or move somewhere with a clear view of the horizon.<br />- If you can not see the picture at all maybe 1) the antenna is not ok 2) not WFM selected 3) wrong frequency.<br /><br /><b>Small bands or rows in the image</b><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbOQDdhdQ1letStn6doQOnsDscTOrGidgKiEErL6Sy3yJdcr2191xOCOvQ7gWWzdiv45e8BR750hnoIkGOxvjkcHy-TsK_cwU2KBRGNTlr4WUn78VcC1NcGEcFedLLan-MK1g7xwTjyqw/s1600/07+WXtoImg+Resulting+Image+and+Problems.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="RTL-SDR, SDRSharp, WXtoImg, QFH, Software Defined radio, weather satellite image" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbOQDdhdQ1letStn6doQOnsDscTOrGidgKiEErL6Sy3yJdcr2191xOCOvQ7gWWzdiv45e8BR750hnoIkGOxvjkcHy-TsK_cwU2KBRGNTlr4WUn78VcC1NcGEcFedLLan-MK1g7xwTjyqw/s400/07+WXtoImg+Resulting+Image+and+Problems.jpg" height="160" title="WXtoImg Resulting Image and Problems" width="400" /></a></b></div><br />- Antenna hears an other transmitter. Move to an electrically quiet place like a forest park, nature reserve or a field. <br />- Your computer generates noise. Use ferrite beads on the USB cable for the stick or coil the cable in a small circle.<br /><br /><b>Image is too white or too dark (usually too dark)</b><br />The gain in SDRSharp is too much - decrease it slightly. The small bands at the edge of the screen is a good place to start, ideally you should see different shades of gray.<br /><br /><b>Image is shifted, lines on the sides not vertical</b><br />In WXtoImg, go to Options (fourth from left), then press Resync (sixth from top). One or two lines out of sync might remain, you can't help that.<br /><br /><br /><h3>Tips and tricks</h3><br /><b>- Print off the satellite pass list</b> in PDF format and keep it on your desktop. Install PDF printer software (doPDF recomended, download from <a href="http://dopdf-free-pdf-converter.soft112.com/quick-download.html" target="_blank">here</a>, opens in new window),then you won't need to open WXtoImg to check the times of the next pass. Saves time for a quick check.<br />- Check, then <b>double-check settings</b> in both SDRSharp and WXtoImg, because the two programs must work together for best results.<br />- <b>WFM </b>gives you the best picture. <br />- <b>40000</b> as it is a nice big number and only requires two buttons. I've seen no difference with 45000. It can not be less than 37000.<br /><br /><b>Noise-free images are a result of:</b><br /><b>A good antenna</b> - build a QFH (read Weather Satellite Antennas to find out how)<br /><b>Clear view of the sky -</b> no trees, buildings between you and the antenna<br /><b>No electrical noise -</b> cover the stick in metal, move out of the city.<br /><b>Satellite high on your horizon -</b> choose a satellite from the Satellite Pass list with a MEL as close to 90 as possible. MEL Numbers less than 30 are usually full of banding and noise. Image on top of the page is from a pass with an MEL of 87.<br /><b>Pre-amplifier - </b>also called a low-noise amplifier, it increases the signal more than a hundred times. The gain in SDRSharp is only needs to go up to 28 db, so less internal noise is generated in the stick. A good one costs 25 euros, currently testing one.<br /><br /><h3>References and Further Reading</h3><b>Satellite info</b><br /><br />NOAA 19 on <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NOAA-19" target="_blank">Wikipedia</a>.<br />National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration <a href="http://www.oso.noaa.gov/poesstatus/spacecraftStatusSummary.asp?spacecraft=19" target="_blank">NOAA 19 Spacecraft Status Summary</a><br />A <a href="http://www2.ncdc.noaa.gov/docs/klm/html/c4/sec4-2.htm" target="_blank">technical description</a> <span id="goog_538136617"></span><span id="goog_538136618"></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/"></a>of how the satellite sends the signal to Earth by NOAA.<br />Satview - <a href="http://www.satview.org/?sat_id=33591U" target="_blank">lets you track where is your satellite in real time.</a> Combine with SDRSharp to show you signal strength, WXtoImg for the transmitted image, then resize program windows so they fit on the same screen and watch in real time. Image will be probably ruined, but still, great entertainment.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4MIkYzG4V6m28btMJ9L6exWLE2-MdBYNjN9HxfYhjzzXgyBFu0eNcIdNXX7M7Bl-VUFp6F0yo_FzbLobLiDnz1pBRwNRPQmPq3TjoxgFte4w6c1NWBj3rW4W09ij0NIWpAQ2sf5zUMzg/s1600/Live+monitoring.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="RTL-SDR, SDRSharp, WXtoImg, Turnstile, Software Defined radio, weather satellite image" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4MIkYzG4V6m28btMJ9L6exWLE2-MdBYNjN9HxfYhjzzXgyBFu0eNcIdNXX7M7Bl-VUFp6F0yo_FzbLobLiDnz1pBRwNRPQmPq3TjoxgFte4w6c1NWBj3rW4W09ij0NIWpAQ2sf5zUMzg/s640/Live+monitoring.jpg" height="300" title="Live Weather Satellite" width="640" /></a></div><br /><br />Some <a href="http://satelliteconferences.noaa.gov/Miami04/docs/tues/Dave_Cawley.pdf" target="_blank">historical background</a>, an interesting read, people were already chasing satellites with large handheld antennas in the 70's.<br /><br /><b>WXtoImg</b><br /><br /><a href="http://www.wxtoimg.com/support/quick.html" target="_blank">WXtoImg Installation and Quick Start Guide</a><br /><br /><b>Similar guide</b><br /><br />RTL-SDR NOAA Guide: <a href="http://www.rtl-sdr.com/rtl-sdr-tutorial-receiving-noaa-weather-satellite-images/">http://www.rtl-sdr.com/rtl-sdr-tutorial-receiving-noaa-weather-satellite-images/</a><br /><br /><h3>If you enjoyed this article, or wish to support this blog, </h3><br /><u>... <a href="http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HCIPSQY" target="_blank">go to Amazon and buy my book</a>. </u> Tips and tricks in the book will save time and money, reduce frustration with computer settings and help you build the best antenna system from shortwave to microwave. Detailed and illustrated step-by-step descriptions on easy-to-do antennas, from shortwave to microwave.<br />Basically all you need to know <u>to enjoy radio.</u><br /><br /><br /><br />Akoshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04062652939032964739noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4253307684293817917.post-2166306091094799892013-08-23T20:20:00.000-07:002016-02-25T14:39:29.222-08:00Weather Satellites - Antennas<meta content='3;URL=http://rtlsdr4everyone.blogspot.com/p/weather-satellites-antennas.html ' http-equiv='refresh'/>
<b>Summary: </b>two meters of wire and a meter of coax for a good antenna, 5 meters of wire and<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPpl4zyZKY90vqss3E2jQw5lU6cj6Ijt2W6cBuK1eG4tFkXKs3V3GyxXFa7TrfO11wNN9ZOmkrvTzNjSW-JZfh_-8-VgC2BbOjYE83NBzxeA4m7M7cuXt3C5PcO9xF25Qhfe58fWWTeHU/s1600/QFH.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="RTL-SDR, SDRSharp, WXtoImg, QFH, Software Defined radio, weather satellite image" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPpl4zyZKY90vqss3E2jQw5lU6cj6Ijt2W6cBuK1eG4tFkXKs3V3GyxXFa7TrfO11wNN9ZOmkrvTzNjSW-JZfh_-8-VgC2BbOjYE83NBzxeA4m7M7cuXt3C5PcO9xF25Qhfe58fWWTeHU/s320/QFH.jpg" height="320" title="QFH antenna" width="168" /></a></div>a wood frame for an excellent antenna.<br />Cost is less than 10 euros, construction time is maximum one hour for the example here.<br /><span style="text-align: center;">Read on to find out how.</span><br /><span style="text-align: center;"><br /></span><br /><h3>Your antenna choices for Weather Satellites are:</h3><br /><b>1. Monopole with 4 radials.</b> Construction detailed in the AIS antenna guide, elements are 54.5 cm long. Not discussed here.<br /><b>2. Turnstile.</b> Four wires plus two coax cables. Portable version discussed here, takes 30 min to build.<br /><b>2a. Eggbeater</b> - add more wire to the turnstile. Tested, better signal strength. Option if don't want to build a QFH.<br /><b>3. Double Cross / Lindenblad:</b> Complicated to build, not suitable for marine use.<br /><b>4. QFH</b>, short for quadrifilar helix. A support with four arms, holding 5 metres of wire. Weather satellites use this type - build this.<br /><b>5. Yagi-Uda:</b> the TV antenna type found on chimneys, requires manual tracking. Not discussed.<br /><br /><h3>Materials</h3><br /><b>Wire -</b> the thicker the better. Center conductor from cables work, better results with house grounding wire. I use 3mm (No 6-10 AWG for metric readers) solid copper wire with insulation left on. Some guides use 1/4" or 8mm copper tubing, needs special tools.<br /><b>Support -</b> your choice. I use wood as it's easy to work with, cheap and readily available.<br /><b>Connectors</b> - screw terminal blocks are great to hold wires in place.<br />NOTE: WEAR EYE PROTECTION!<br />Grounding wire comes as two or three 3mm cables combined in one cable. When uncoiled for measuring / cutting, it can hit you with sufficient force to take your eye out. Pieces being cut also fly to surprising distances.<br /><br />I've built and tested different versions of the following antennas, best performance with easiest construction is discussed here. Form follows function, so the results might not be aesthetically pleasing, but they work.<br /><br /><h3>Portable Turnstile<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpxBgh059D49K1V_8LAD0zqlJL1wAH9BcVLmwdvxPpn97IPMLBQN5jE-VQEr2LmeSqN9xrkE_TiHYG5RYMbhU4ngP_NQzfnC7ynrMS-9EN-V9OgIpPQuxINCv6itC26ABXYMe6bDLF-Hg/s1600/02+Turnstile.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpxBgh059D49K1V_8LAD0zqlJL1wAH9BcVLmwdvxPpn97IPMLBQN5jE-VQEr2LmeSqN9xrkE_TiHYG5RYMbhU4ngP_NQzfnC7ynrMS-9EN-V9OgIpPQuxINCv6itC26ABXYMe6bDLF-Hg/s320/02+Turnstile.jpg" height="320" width="211" /></a></div></h3><br />Built and tested six different versions, received the image on the right with the version below.<br />Officially called a crossed dipole, basically four horizontal wires with a phasing harness (more on that later).<br />Wire lengths are either 1.09m (half-wave) or 54.5 cm (quarter wave). Longer length gave no visible improvement and a pain to mount / carry around.<br />Wire diameter can be either center of coax cable (1mm) or grounding wire (3mm). Theoretically thicker is better, this is true, thicker cable gave better signal strength.<br />Phasing harness is coax cable cut to a specific length. Some guides recommend 50 and 75 Ohm cables, tested multiple versions, could not see any difference in received image. If googling turnstile antenna for images, you might notice that sometimes only one cable is used on top of the assembly.<br />I found that having two 75 Ohm cables, four terminal blocks, 3 mm grounding wire and a wood support is a quick, easy and portable solution.<br />Wires are removable with a screwdriver, making for a compact and transportable package.<br /><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-pLSMNwvFSFjjgJRspHkPTMY5phyACuGt2L5Tgl_YdzRRq7NzWU9248oHFJ_aHWCrOABucjxMcYoXAUHanqM0nGUexBH7X_NgHAkZin-NnniWimwUdfxm9Ujjn4TULZVRUTdOSTflVw8/s1600/ready+to+go+package.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="RTL-SDR, SDRSharp, WXtoImg, Turnstile, Software Defined radio, weather satellite image" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-pLSMNwvFSFjjgJRspHkPTMY5phyACuGt2L5Tgl_YdzRRq7NzWU9248oHFJ_aHWCrOABucjxMcYoXAUHanqM0nGUexBH7X_NgHAkZin-NnniWimwUdfxm9Ujjn4TULZVRUTdOSTflVw8/s200/ready+to+go+package.jpg" height="187" title="Turnstile Ready to go" width="200" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><h3>Materials</h3><br /><b>Wire</b> - Cut four (4) 55 cm wire. Remove the insulation for 5mm on only one end.<br /><b>Cable</b> - You need two cables of a specific length. The length required depends on the insulation type around the center conductor. Strip away the braid and check the material surrounding the center wire.<br />If it is plastic, you need 36 and 72 cm long cables.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFGozUPpbrg6WR-OYepgq5o9vhTxbiV2fjAcbVfLz2DFl67STqb_gdHAe3LymxMIU7eLYJqcaeBbi0z79aun77E7pPCVawTbIUjRTp1mNqgx_ZTTOdrx_uClCEb0b-RgPeWsZcZN03qdw/s1600/DSC08190.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="RTL-SDR, SDRSharp, WXtoImg, Turnstile, Software Defined radio, weather satellite image" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFGozUPpbrg6WR-OYepgq5o9vhTxbiV2fjAcbVfLz2DFl67STqb_gdHAe3LymxMIU7eLYJqcaeBbi0z79aun77E7pPCVawTbIUjRTp1mNqgx_ZTTOdrx_uClCEb0b-RgPeWsZcZN03qdw/s200/DSC08190.JPG" height="200" title="Turnstile connections close-up" width="183" /></a>If it is foam (same material as a coffee cup, soft to the touch) you need 43 and 86 cm long cables.<br />Leave space on each end of the cable so you'll have enough cable to work with. Separate braid and center wire. Folding the center wire onto itself makes for a better connection at the block.<br /><b>Screws</b> - self-tapping screws (they make their own hole as you turn them) are great.<br /><b>Wood / mounting block</b> - mount the components on a piece of wood, or inside an enclosure.<br /><b>Terminal blocks</b> - one end holds the wire, other end connects the cable. Screw one of the screws fully in. This will be a stop for the radials, e.g. the 54.5 cm wire. Also test that the wire fits into the terminal end tightly.<br /><br /><h3>Assembly<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjygmKaynIoIE-vRrBeuZeTjsMmZ2wl5EUfECeWw0GxWt3AyeUZN8UNRDUw6wKIT43B6kFVAx_y5csSKQHWwWr_uTcTN8jrXjhcuFYEjz2L2uzHQDtWgpGEBSDYnV5ygRp1ATNxlnkvgyE/s1600/03+Turnstile+Top+Connections.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="RTL-SDR, SDRSharp, WXtoImg, Turnstile, Software Defined radio, weather satellite image" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjygmKaynIoIE-vRrBeuZeTjsMmZ2wl5EUfECeWw0GxWt3AyeUZN8UNRDUw6wKIT43B6kFVAx_y5csSKQHWwWr_uTcTN8jrXjhcuFYEjz2L2uzHQDtWgpGEBSDYnV5ygRp1ATNxlnkvgyE/s400/03+Turnstile+Top+Connections.jpg" height="225" title="Turnstile Top Connections" width="400" /></a></div></h3><br /><b>Mount the four terminals</b> at 90 degrees to each other, like North, East, South and West on the compass rose. Leave enough space in the middle for the cables.<br />Opposing ends of the four terminals are connected, so they form a North-South and East-West pair for each of the coax cables. Push the center of the braid into the hole of the screw connector, and tighten the screw. I find it easier to do the braid first, then the center. <br /><b>Connect the shorter cable:</b> center to West, braid to East. Insulate braid and center as the other cable might come into contact with it.<br /><b>Connect the longer cable:</b> center to North, braid to South. By leaving enough center and braid to work with assembly is much easier.<br /><b>Connect the other end of the shorter and longer cable</b> with the cable going to the RTL stick - connect the three center to center and braid to braid. Insulate braid and center separately.<br />Locate the four 54.5 cm wires, and one by one push into the terminals, fixing them down with the screw.<br /><br /><i>Congratulations, now you have a turnstile antenna!</i><br /><br /><br /><h3>Transform this to an eggbeater antenna:</h3><br />The eggbeater antenna is an improvement on the turnstile, using two loops, each around 220 cm long, so they form a 71 cm diameter circle. The commercial version is used by radio amateurs to communicate via satellite. If you have enough wire give it a go.<br />Connect the ends of the 220 cm loops into the terminal connections. That's it, the phasing harness you made will be fine, same principle.<br />I found that even thought the signal is better, it is too large and does not look nearly as cool as the spiral QFH.<br />Besides, why not build the antenna type actually used on the satellite itself?<br /><br /><br /><h3><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjptHGASP5JjoFe9fbaWTEM-4vMkOaQUd7saceKcVLEVMFbamnXhkFYPDaUGDRHsqPnnLpj7vPz5ve94a9WXL8AQbD7vFzezJ98g_xZT9hqYSnLgaJihXsYgikYQnnC-txIem7x7A02jGM/s1600/qfh+brush+antenna.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="RTL-SDR, SDRSharp, WXtoImg, Turnstile, Software Defined radio, weather satellite image" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjptHGASP5JjoFe9fbaWTEM-4vMkOaQUd7saceKcVLEVMFbamnXhkFYPDaUGDRHsqPnnLpj7vPz5ve94a9WXL8AQbD7vFzezJ98g_xZT9hqYSnLgaJihXsYgikYQnnC-txIem7x7A02jGM/s320/qfh+brush+antenna.jpg" height="320" title="QFH Sweeping brush antenna" width="313" /></a>QFH, the Spiral antenna</h3><br />Built eight versions, easiest to construct with best image quality described here.<br />The image on the right was made with chopsticks taped to a brush to form the frame, with coax cable for antenna elements. Length and distances are critical, materials are not. <br />The antenna is made from a smaller and longer piece of wire, fixed to a frame, connected at the top. Google the term QFH - and a huge number of websites, guides and images come up. Recommended ones are included at the end. However, most guides require the use of power and heating tools and/or soldering.This guide shows you how to build a working version quickly with basic hand tools.<br /><br /><h3>Materials</h3><b>Frame support:</b> Your choice. I recommend wood, with self-tapping screws only a screwdriver required.<br /><b>Coax cable:</b> due to the wide variety of cable around, their different properties and the pain of connection on the top and bottom NOT recommended.<br /><b>1mm wire:</b> the required circular shape is easily lost, signal strength is barely adeguate.<br /><b>3mm grounding wire:</b> RECOMMENDED, keeps its shape quite well.<br /><b>Copper rods:</b> you need heating and soldering equipment, pipe cutters etc. Theoretically the thicker the better, comes down to tools and personal choice.<br />Build one with smaller wire first, then progress to thicker materials.<br /><b>Connectors, screws:</b> as for the turnstile.<br /><br /><h3>Dimensions</h3><br />Use the calculator here: <a href="http://jcoppens.com/ant/qfh/calc.en.php" target="_blank">John Coppen's Online calculator</a>.<br />For 3mm grounding wire, use bending Radius: 5mm, Conductor Diameter: 3mm.<br />Press Calculate - do not press Enter, you'll get an error message.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKb1gqIKs2FZJVN9FKO7OYyLl12ueWlGx7ucGD39LMECr6vHVYwwY0M6mloaZNDRUq1CbRud0UEEPCdWLGGK7rDhyphenhyphenTJgjxRosM0oBcIVGnBoamGPnKosx5M5VWCdG6VabStWCPhr-dHKw/s1600/QFH+dimensions+3mm+wire.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="RTL-SDR, SDRSharp, WXtoImg, Turnstile, Software Defined radio, weather satellite image" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKb1gqIKs2FZJVN9FKO7OYyLl12ueWlGx7ucGD39LMECr6vHVYwwY0M6mloaZNDRUq1CbRud0UEEPCdWLGGK7rDhyphenhyphenTJgjxRosM0oBcIVGnBoamGPnKosx5M5VWCdG6VabStWCPhr-dHKw/s400/QFH+dimensions+3mm+wire.jpg" height="141" title="QFH dimensions for 3mm wire" width="400" /></a></div><br /><br />Note the values for both the small and the larger loop, especially lengths and heights. Adjusting the width at the cross arms can be done later. <br /><br /><h3>Support / Frame</h3><br /><b>Cut six pieces of wood</b>, 360 mm in length - these will form the cross arms.<br />Screw the arms together so they are 90 degrees from each other - use other pieces of wood to get 90 degrees.<br /><b>Cut the middle section</b> to around chest-high - so you can work on the top connections comfortably and the final antenna will be off the ground.<br /><b>Screw the top arm on the top</b>, measure the larger loop height and screw the bottom arm at that distance from the top.<br /><b>Screw the middle arm halfway</b> between the top and bottom.<br /><br /><br /><h3>Antenna elements - wires<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1IO6OgnAfhVdBSzRQRaboiqnzDbumhP_bgSMRPKjDa3W6pZ1_R_cUeouXafjf_0XOjLVaC7-COzoRhyphenhyphennhf1j_zui8KSkMRbehcNP2aHdXLjR141CeQtmGVi1TiqApTSUvF-9ta4RJX1g/s1600/01+QFH.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="RTL-SDR, SDRSharp, WXtoImg, Turnstile, Software Defined radio, weather satellite image" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1IO6OgnAfhVdBSzRQRaboiqnzDbumhP_bgSMRPKjDa3W6pZ1_R_cUeouXafjf_0XOjLVaC7-COzoRhyphenhyphennhf1j_zui8KSkMRbehcNP2aHdXLjR141CeQtmGVi1TiqApTSUvF-9ta4RJX1g/s320/01+QFH.jpg" height="320" title="QFH Antenna Received Image" width="203" /></a></div></h3><br /><b>Cut </b>the required length of wire (WEAR EYE PROTECTION!) plus 5 mm on each end. You'll have two wires, one longer and one shorter. Labeling which is which is a good idea. Mark the midpoint of each wire with tape.<br /><b>Start with the longer loop</b> - tape the end on the top arm, then make a half turn counterclockwise as viewed from the top. If you think of the arms as directions, start at North, make a turn counter-clockwise (to the left) so the same wire ends up on the bottom arm, facing South. <br />By this stage the other end of the wire probably destroyed half the room, a helper pays dividends. Hint: involve your significant other or kids.<br /><b>The midpoint of the wire</b> goes in the center of the bottom arm, tape it securely on both sides.<br />Run the remaining wire up to the top arm, same thing again, half-turn counterclockwise so the two wires will face each other.<br />Repeat the same for the smaller wire, so you'll have four wires coming to the center on the four arms.<br /><b>Measure top and bottom arm distances</b>, remember, top and bottom center must be under each other.<br />Bend the wires into shape, so when you look down on the antenna wires look like a circle.<br /><br /><h3>Top connections and finishing up.</h3><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJFfMjZtyezBrDMD7DHZftb4upDdVTMGopFHMMHpb8gcHCFQE2zv7M41qa1-oKu6S9CuvlAupj5EDKUG_0D5o35S0ZDGFdhyphenhyphenGNmUUqxNKblnbBg0tFgI0nI5ppnpYZzJpGBVRVgwuF0fs/s1600/QFH+top+connections.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="RTL-SDR, SDRSharp, WXtoImg, Turnstile, Software Defined radio, weather satellite image" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJFfMjZtyezBrDMD7DHZftb4upDdVTMGopFHMMHpb8gcHCFQE2zv7M41qa1-oKu6S9CuvlAupj5EDKUG_0D5o35S0ZDGFdhyphenhyphenGNmUUqxNKblnbBg0tFgI0nI5ppnpYZzJpGBVRVgwuF0fs/s640/QFH+top+connections.jpg" height="361" title="QFH Top Connections" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b>Coax cable (the one used to get the signal to the RTL stick):</b> a small distance below the top, wrap it around the mast 5-6 times - this will help with electrical noise suppression (coiling excess cable has the same effect),<br />Separate braid and center on one end - leave sufficient length, 5-6 cm (2") to make connections easier.<br />The center of the coax connects to one side of the small and big loop, the braid connects to one side of the small and the big loop. When viewed from the top:<br /><b>Center:</b> connects North and West<br /><b>Braid:</b> connects to East and South.<br /><br />Using values from the online calculator, measure top and bottom arm distances, center support - arm distances for both bottom and top. Fix the wire in place with cable ties.<br /><br /><i>Congratulations, you've just made a QFH antenna!</i><br /><h3>Antenna placement</h3><br /><b>- View of the horizon:</b> In a city, as high as possible. Trees and buildings block the signal from the satellite. <br /><b>- On a yacht,</b> mount the antenna at a convenient location, there's no need for height. It's an interesting question how a sail, especially a wet sail influences reception. Also, place the top electronics in a weatherproof box, and pay special attention to mounting due to windage.<br /><b>- Away from electrics:</b> try not to have electrical devices nearby.<br /><b>- Preamplifier:</b> if you use one, mount it as close to the top as possible. Cable from the top picks up electrical noise, so go for the shortest length possible. (Amplifiers in a separate post)<br /><br /><br /><br /><b>Optional to read:</b> for the turnstile you're making a phasing harness, a quarter-wave and a half-wave for 137.5 Mhz center frequency. Divide 300 with 137.5 to get wavelength 2.18m, half-wave is 1.09m, quarter wave is 54.5cm. If you have foam cable, google the writing on the shield and "velocity factor", such as "RG 8/U velocity factor".<br />This gives you a number, in this case 0.78. You need to multiply quarter and half wave values with this to get the required length in centimetres.<br />In practice a few mm either way will not make a difference.<br /><br /><h3>References, credits and further reading information</h3>QFH from coax cables, <a href="http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/wxsatellite/cvl-qfh.pdf" target="_blank">an excellent read.</a><br />QFH from plastic pipes and copper tubing, <a href="http://www.gregorystrike.com/2010/05/16/quadrifilar-helix-antenna-137-mhz/" target="_blank">one of the better manuals.</a> Have the tools? Build one.<br />If you wonder if a double cross might be better, <a href="http://noaaport.poes-weather.com/download/jm-dca/MARTES_Double_Cross_Antenna.pdf" target="_blank">read this pdf file</a>.<br />Eggbeater details and construction <a href="http://on6wg.pagesperso-orange.fr/Doc/Antenne%20Eggbeater-Engl-Part1-Full.pdf" target="_blank">here, lots of diagrams.</a><br />Browse around on this page, a variation of the eggbeater, called a <a href="http://wb5rmg.somenet.net/k5oe/Texas_Potato_Masher_2.html" target="_blank">potato masher</a>. What's this fixation with kitchen utensils? <br />Commercial eggbeater antenna for USD 221 + shipping at <a href="http://www.m2inc.com/index.php?ax=amateur&pg=181">http://www.m2inc.com/index.php?ax=amateur&pg=181</a><br /><br /><h3>If you enjoyed this article, or wish to support this blog, </h3><br /><u>... <a href="http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HCIPSQY" target="_blank">go to Amazon and buy my book</a>. </u> Tips and tricks in the book will save time and money, reduce frustration with computer settings and help you build the best antenna system from shortwave to microwave. Detailed and illustrated step-by-step descriptions on easy-to-do antennas, from shortwave to microwave.<br />Basically all you need to know <u>to enjoy radio.</u>Akoshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04062652939032964739noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4253307684293817917.post-7430927316022603732013-08-14T18:18:00.000-07:002016-02-25T14:41:08.792-08:00Software - Beginners Guide<meta content='3;URL=http://rtlsdr4everyone.blogspot.com/ ' http-equiv='refresh'/>
<h2>SDRSharp - Tips and Tricks For The Beginner.</h2><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA6br8etrQlh4Eyrfgc73ZywPBZaxuxCLdHoT4va_QDXo_1fgShgLYnX4wTZV_iPhfGoz0Y6wnhdurgw49YPd4P7DOW4oUInxzDeDmBOO_U1PxEp7HIxRS-ejeJyGk1gqtdzjz4q0Vp38/s1600/10+Start+screen.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="RTL-SDR, AIS, User guide, Quick guide, Installation, beginner, splash screen" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA6br8etrQlh4Eyrfgc73ZywPBZaxuxCLdHoT4va_QDXo_1fgShgLYnX4wTZV_iPhfGoz0Y6wnhdurgw49YPd4P7DOW4oUInxzDeDmBOO_U1PxEp7HIxRS-ejeJyGk1gqtdzjz4q0Vp38/s640/10+Start+screen.jpg" height="329" title="Software guide - Where is what" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><h2>What you need to know:</h2><br />- Make sure you have everything connected<br />- Top left: Airplanes are AM, Human voice is NFM, Music is WFM<br />- Top middle numbers: red is up, blue is down, scroll with mouse changes frequency on the number quickly<br />- Increase power / sensitivity in Configuration (top middle).<br /><br /><b>SDRSharp will work IF:</b><br /><br />- You have Microsoft .NET installed<br />- You have the necessary drivers (Zadig takes care of that)<br />- The RTL stick is connected to your computer.<br /><br /><b>You receive radio signals </b>if you have an antenna connected to the RTL stick.<br /><br /><b>Please read the Installation Guide, </b> with instructions you will be up and running in 15 minutes.<br /><br />Connect the RTL stick to the USB port, then start SDRSharp with the shortcut.<br />- You have to use the USB port used for installation.<br />- You have to start SDRSharp as an administrator (see the end of the software installation guide).<br /><br /><br /><h2>Start screen - what's what</h2><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><img alt="AIS, antenna, RTL-SDR, Software Defined Radio, 820T, testing, review, DIY guide" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW5nCyPxPIC_a7bvvxqLXfkclhM-qDQEa3scSt1QAlF3xmAVkTS1ILWy_rcdg5OpNw62X01cR-uTM0CNrdnZ4xgLrS-1Y65zepyBicNVcX3RthMA5mxIRrJwzp95Ts3lxrFSyaLt8idIM/s400/01+startup+screen.jpg" height="211" title="Startup screen" width="400" /></div><br /><b>Starting from the top left corner:</b><br /><b>Play button</b> - starts the sound / runs the software.<br /><b>RTL-SDR / USB</b> - select this for RTL stick.<br /><b>Configure</b> - how much signal you want.<br />Don't touch for now. See at the bottom of this document.<br /><b>Long Number</b>s - you set the frequency here.<br /><b>Radio- Mode settings</b><br />NFM is needed for AIS and speech,<br />AM is for shortwave radio and airplane chat,<br />WFM is for listening to commercial radio and weather Fax reception.<br />Don't touch the others. You do not need them at this stage.<br /><b>Window with red line, surrounded by gray area </b>- the red line is the center of the frequency you adjust with the numbers.<br />The gray area indicates the amount of signals you receive.<br />Window below red line - this is called a waterfall, shows you signals over time.<br /><h2>Moving down, next window is:</h2><br /><b>Audio - AF gain</b> is volume control. Makes the audio louder or quieter.<br /><b>Output:</b> you want to hear the signal - select Speakers<br />use signals in another software - select CABLE Input - this sends the signal to other software.<br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhwVjGjkAWTrGfx7uz_TZE30NLADn2BrhetH25HgZ5qmIpOCt35MK7zD2sWYWeHIkHNe-Y7Pn5_MDrpDAhJUL-ecQMOVl2KZcJACceLgTcGJS4GW6hwpMhuhYTurGHxIk0JQvMuaw3wCc/s1600/02+cable+output.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="AIS, antenna, RTL-SDR, Software Defined Radio, 820T, testing, review, DIY guide" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhwVjGjkAWTrGfx7uz_TZE30NLADn2BrhetH25HgZ5qmIpOCt35MK7zD2sWYWeHIkHNe-Y7Pn5_MDrpDAhJUL-ecQMOVl2KZcJACceLgTcGJS4GW6hwpMhuhYTurGHxIk0JQvMuaw3wCc/s400/02+cable+output.jpg" height="158" title="Audio output selection" width="400" /></a></div><br /><h2>Now press Play in the top left corner.</h2><b>Congratulations</b>, you started your software defined radio!<br /><br />Magic awaits :-)<br /><br />You will get the following screen, see the picture to identify where is what:<br />(Click on the picture to see it large)<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrVsZmpvu4k8AB_BrOITOJrt79glwW3mg4l6cuq3eCfgHvZ7Oq7yOzut4Sd1_1jHsVZYs60KoKCZuobzmz9G_EYtvqFrKyFeObo93IYSE9RAt29ubQlsWUlz6yh1jLY9hi8JDBM_gpP98/s1600/04+what+you+see.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="RTL-SDR, AIS, User guide, Quick guide, Installation, beginner, splash screen" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrVsZmpvu4k8AB_BrOITOJrt79glwW3mg4l6cuq3eCfgHvZ7Oq7yOzut4Sd1_1jHsVZYs60KoKCZuobzmz9G_EYtvqFrKyFeObo93IYSE9RAt29ubQlsWUlz6yh1jLY9hi8JDBM_gpP98/s400/04+what+you+see.jpg" height="208" title="SDRSharp Install - Main Screen" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><b>The mountain in the middle</b> is the signal. The height of the mountain is called signal strength, the width of the mountain is called the bandwidth. The better the signal, the higher it is, and the more you can hear it.<br /><b>The area of the gray is called the bandwidth - width of the mountain. </b>You can change it by going to the edge of the gray and pushing the left button on the mouse, then moving left and right (keep the left mouse button pressed down to move the gray area).<br />Some signals are only a small peak, some are like Mount Everest.<br /><b>Remember: the higher the mountain - better the signal.</b><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrObZlVkHkPWIEkq-rLo9BR7lfjpjkLVWrPW2PzQabxMZQchgLhuaWjJU3vyvMGufbX-oFLHTh1BAY2Q73AMWoGqJJ3wWAc16T_j4YjdPME7zBJ1jSQlVTy97t10gWI1MEbDkQcIV7kcU/s1600/05+adjusting+bandwidth.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrObZlVkHkPWIEkq-rLo9BR7lfjpjkLVWrPW2PzQabxMZQchgLhuaWjJU3vyvMGufbX-oFLHTh1BAY2Q73AMWoGqJJ3wWAc16T_j4YjdPME7zBJ1jSQlVTy97t10gWI1MEbDkQcIV7kcU/s640/05+adjusting+bandwidth.jpg" height="377" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b>If you know </b>the area under the gray, you can enter manually in the radio panel.<br />When you change the width on the right, the numbers change in the left, and the other way around. <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFWGfAAIZ8R_-FbyKXfkjr5yEbovSlW5M4HiSC0xEAXyH5GZX0OzwFd_l9Rqntl5VXwd1QpzrG_Gyc-znFOyraf9bAN9E_Nj9j-3l3VnlomX-qhRTLsYnN3mRuajjkTOcKsDhGFJHw-Mk/s1600/06++bandwidth+direct+entry.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="RTL-SDR, AIS, User guide, Quick guide, Installation, beginner, splash screen" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFWGfAAIZ8R_-FbyKXfkjr5yEbovSlW5M4HiSC0xEAXyH5GZX0OzwFd_l9Rqntl5VXwd1QpzrG_Gyc-znFOyraf9bAN9E_Nj9j-3l3VnlomX-qhRTLsYnN3mRuajjkTOcKsDhGFJHw-Mk/s640/06++bandwidth+direct+entry.jpg" height="424" title="SDRSharp bandwidth direct entry" width="640" /></a></div><br /><h3><b>Useful numbers: </b></h3><b><br /></b><b>People talking </b>(Marine channels, taxi): 12500 (12.5 kHz, k=100)<br /><b>AIS signal:</b> 25000 ( you see the width when you adjust the gray area)<br /><br /><b>If you do not know </b>the number, you see the signal, and see how wide it is.<br />Then you can adjust with mouse left click down until the colours are under the gray area.<br /><br /><h2>Changing frequency</h2>- Go to the long numbers at the top of the screen, so when you move your mouse, the number under the pointer will turn either blue (down) or red (up).<br />You can click, or use the wheel (the middle stuff between left and right click) to change the frequency you want to hear.<br />- You may use the direct frequency entry, it is on the left called "Frequency Entry (Plugin)"<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw9EjcLjryrwgTfTN9xs55Piy4ldR99upVNKrZxWLw-FmMuoDj33A3dvm_ChhvED9dxpumzkKckwDCheXHEkVpAHncl1DzASmeCdtQvc-0hF8M2E2LZXwLu15bGVfrqLdTOIbakBHoUZA/s1600/07+changing+frequency.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="RTL-SDR, AIS, User guide, Quick guide, Installation, beginner, splash screen, quick start guide" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw9EjcLjryrwgTfTN9xs55Piy4ldR99upVNKrZxWLw-FmMuoDj33A3dvm_ChhvED9dxpumzkKckwDCheXHEkVpAHncl1DzASmeCdtQvc-0hF8M2E2LZXwLu15bGVfrqLdTOIbakBHoUZA/s400/07+changing+frequency.jpg" height="146" title="SDRSharp Changing frequency" width="400" /></a></div><br /><br /><br /><h2>Adjusting the power of the stick / adjusting sensitivity</h2><br /><b>If you can't hear it, you need to make it louder.</b> You can adjust the power of the RTL stick (sensitivity) by going to Configure (top left, left to the numbers) and moving the slider left and right.<br /><b>Configuration slider - Move to the right - more signals, more to hear.</b><br />If the top of the mountain touches the top of the screen you have too much power, move the slider to the left.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq1H-ghWsokBDZda2RnW0ytPy_2DfAZWpNvAXNd-Frw92ThaY1rMoQ2Wy4RIzEQZDhkw8E3X-4osONGRaM8hV7FjSuI3x-rWYGghrag6I5rUmzuZ8wmytiNl26eUi5gQmO0C_DFgyNvpE/s1600/09+sensitivity+settings.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="RTL-SDR, AIS, User guide, Quick guide, Installation, beginner, splash screen" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq1H-ghWsokBDZda2RnW0ytPy_2DfAZWpNvAXNd-Frw92ThaY1rMoQ2Wy4RIzEQZDhkw8E3X-4osONGRaM8hV7FjSuI3x-rWYGghrag6I5rUmzuZ8wmytiNl26eUi5gQmO0C_DFgyNvpE/s400/09+sensitivity+settings.jpg" height="255" title="SDRSharp Sensitivity Settings" width="400" /></a></div><br /><br />So for now you know what to do:<br />- <b>Change</b> frequencies<br />- <b>Experiment</b> with different modes<br />- <b>Tune across</b> the spectrum.<br />- <b>Use the sliders</b> on the right hand side of the screen:<br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwvFcJAEEMH6B5Okst__FtJxOaSiq9wr-mXxkLiDBCdnYyFlqlr-1xoFUk30y4-tfNUl2HLD1dLcKFUT6IQDd6FWoaJjuxRCCPymQ7THxJpGu8DX4xzjKSocWBJP_VdCvGJ-3Aq3IZ0mM/s1600/08+RHS+settings.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwvFcJAEEMH6B5Okst__FtJxOaSiq9wr-mXxkLiDBCdnYyFlqlr-1xoFUk30y4-tfNUl2HLD1dLcKFUT6IQDd6FWoaJjuxRCCPymQ7THxJpGu8DX4xzjKSocWBJP_VdCvGJ-3Aq3IZ0mM/s400/08+RHS+settings.jpg" height="329" width="400" /></a></div><br /><br /><h3>If you enjoyed this article, or wish to support this blog, </h3><br /><u>... <a href="http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HCIPSQY" target="_blank">go to Amazon and buy my book</a>. </u> Tips and tricks in the book will save time and money, reduce frustration with computer settings and help you build the best antenna system from shortwave to microwave. Detailed and illustrated step-by-step descriptions on easy-to-do antennas, from shortwave to microwave.<br />Basically all you need to know <u>to enjoy radio.</u><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Akoshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04062652939032964739noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4253307684293817917.post-47561536626616798862013-08-08T20:59:00.000-07:002016-02-25T14:42:02.260-08:00AIS Antenna Shootout<meta content='3;URL=http://rtlsdr4everyone.blogspot.com/p/ais-antennas.html ' http-equiv='refresh'/>
<h2>Testing five homemade antennas and a rubber ducky for AIS reception.</h2><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPw_UyhHQMtGGDR1zvC4xVWqUYSjwz__6FXVcv-qCijr80l8daShYT3bamBd1CDV58-O5PA1cIVGlQiinxxn61VgD8BDUpIVHicDoZLMa3bSAh87od9fm_duQ1IRAgw_yvx5_khDMUw0Q/s1600/03+discone+2+radials+plotted.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPw_UyhHQMtGGDR1zvC4xVWqUYSjwz__6FXVcv-qCijr80l8daShYT3bamBd1CDV58-O5PA1cIVGlQiinxxn61VgD8BDUpIVHicDoZLMa3bSAh87od9fm_duQ1IRAgw_yvx5_khDMUw0Q/s320/03+discone+2+radials+plotted.jpg" height="132" width="320" /></a><strong>What you need to know: </strong>monopole with 2 radials is best value / performance.<br />Read on to find out why.<br /><br /><h2>Introduction</h2>The antenna is the most important part of your receiving system.<br />To get better performance, you can:<br />1) increase the height of the antenna, or<br />2) use a better antenna and / or better equipment.<br /><br />Equipment being the same and height being the same, you need the best antenna, hence this review of available easy-to-do choices.<br /><br /><br /><h3>1) Increasing antenna height increases range</h3>On top of a mountain you see further away - it is the same with an antenna (called line of sight). That's why your existing VHF aerial is at the top of your mast - it's up high. The way radio waves travel might increase range an extra 10-30 %, but do not depend on it.<br />Nm is short for 1 nautical mile, equals 1.852 km or 1.15 land mile.<br />An inch is 2.54 cm. Divide cm by 2.54 to get inches.<br /><br /><strong>Height of antenna above sea level - distance to horizon:</strong><br />3 metres (fixed to cockpit railing) - 3.3 nautical miles<br />10 metres (small yacht mast) - 6.1 nautical mile<br />20 metres - (large yacht mast) - 10 nm<br />50 metres (large merchant ship) - 13.6 nm<br />From experience, AIS or VHF signal range is greater due to the fact that the antenna is also on top of the other vessel.<br /><br /><h3> 2) Better antenna and/or equipment</h3>At home or on a yacht, you can only change the antenna location until you reach available maximum, then you must get a better, more efficient antenna and / or more sensitive equipment.<br />Commercial equipment costs a lot as they are made by people doing radio all their lives, equipment works out of the box and you have less worries.<br /><strong>The choice is yours:</strong> pay 300 dollars for an AIS receiver or pay 30 dollars for a solution on your laptop.<br /><br /><h2>AIS vs VHF antenna</h2><strong>If you have a Marine VHF antenna / aerial it will be fine for AIS.</strong><br />Radio signals come to your antenna in waves, like sea waves rippling in a quiet anchorage. The distance between the top of the waves is called wavelength, and can be calculated by dividing 300 with the frequency in question. Marine band is between 156-162, AIS is around 162, so AIS wavelength is 1.85 metres, Marine VHF is 1.88 metres.<br />Wavelength is important to us, as most antennas are either Quarter-Wave (0.45m - 0.48m) or Half-Wave (0.9m, 3-foot whip as you know it) or variations, e.g. 5/8th wave, 1.5 wave etc.<br />For the reasons above, your antenna will work on AIS frequencies. <br /><strong>Antennas work not only at the "designed frequency":</strong> the quarter-wave 46 cm monopole, essentially a piece of wire and the worst performing in the test, received Commercial Radio at 96 MHz, Airport information at 121.85 Mhz and Taxi driver chat around 164 MHz.<br /><strong>Don't worry, give it a go, it will work.</strong><br /><strong><br /></strong><br /><h2>Antenna testing setup and materials / cost</h2><strong>Location:</strong> top of a mountain, no building/trees in the way of the signal from the harbor, no clear view of the Celtic Sea.<br /><strong>Mid-range laptop,</strong> 15 meters of cheapest coax to simulate cable run to cockpit mounting, RTL stick connected via 60 cm (2 foot) USB extension lead. Antennas 3 meters above the ground.<br /><strong>Materials</strong> were 3 mm diameter copper wire (ask house grounding wire in Europe or No 10 wire in the USA), radials are 1 mm center conductors from a coax cable.<br /><strong>Material costs:</strong> grounding cable at 2-3 euros per meter, coax cable between 1-2 euros per meter.<br />A working setup, consisting of an RTL stick, 15 meters of cable and a homemade antenna works out to around 30 euros (I assume you have a laptop). A standalone AIS receiver costs around 120-130 euros plus shipping from Ebay.<br /><strong>Get in a "make-do" attitude and use what's available.</strong><br /><strong><br /></strong><br /><h2>Monopole (fancy name for a piece of wire)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-K0huGqlQiwXtcDy805rYV41v7b7U2RseD-0JQ_gOcEX06y_AAH7P6ZT6riO8nW4T5m7s-1Cz6kuD1K92kjsO_N9fQliAGcnQ9pCTW-u4wCSrWEVdmy5a0aQ81JRwl7l10X4sBh4qFZM/s1600/01+monopole+diagram.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="AIS, antenna, RTL-SDR, Software Defined Radio, 820T, testing, review, DIY guide" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-K0huGqlQiwXtcDy805rYV41v7b7U2RseD-0JQ_gOcEX06y_AAH7P6ZT6riO8nW4T5m7s-1Cz6kuD1K92kjsO_N9fQliAGcnQ9pCTW-u4wCSrWEVdmy5a0aQ81JRwl7l10X4sBh4qFZM/s200/01+monopole+diagram.jpg" height="153" title="Monopole Diagram" width="200" /></a></div></h2>A 0.46m long wire (1/4th wavelength) connected to the center of the signal cable. 3 versions tested, 1 mm diameter wire from coax cable center, 3 mm diameter wire from house grounding cable, and wire from an extension power lead.<br />Electrical noise pickup was the lowest with the 3 mm diameter wire, so used that for more testing.<br />Furthest AIS target is 2.87 nm away.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiErT0BkjUsWeN1CGhMDokQOnW0LrpX97APPnxD-E6UHzjNIMrtaoyetQfrNBAC4rt1sUxbkvyPaZH1eOiSD4H2U9d0IxGpponH2StX4PlNzKR1Sv2bDpp73uHjkhhvFd0lvQo5zqah0B0/s1600/01+monopole+results.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="AIS, antenna, RTL-SDR, Software Defined Radio, 820T, testing, review, DIY guide" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiErT0BkjUsWeN1CGhMDokQOnW0LrpX97APPnxD-E6UHzjNIMrtaoyetQfrNBAC4rt1sUxbkvyPaZH1eOiSD4H2U9d0IxGpponH2StX4PlNzKR1Sv2bDpp73uHjkhhvFd0lvQo5zqah0B0/s400/01+monopole+results.jpg" height="240" title="Monopole Results - Max 2.87nm" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><h2>Dipole (two wires in opposite direction)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXspn7bOxya5V5Bm8y8SWRpMqm7v6rOn5flE89jiJEQZgYIgyeKSUQp0HOm2rTXqMZwtk2E5xj7mngGqu7GuCgIBItl97snxI_wIRsZrd5vSY28ktZivWzdnVQ_baSYpC1rqOTDLGrWLI/s1600/02+dipole+diagram.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="AIS, antenna, RTL-SDR, Software Defined Radio, 820T, testing, review, DIY guide" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXspn7bOxya5V5Bm8y8SWRpMqm7v6rOn5flE89jiJEQZgYIgyeKSUQp0HOm2rTXqMZwtk2E5xj7mngGqu7GuCgIBItl97snxI_wIRsZrd5vSY28ktZivWzdnVQ_baSYpC1rqOTDLGrWLI/s200/02+dipole+diagram.jpg" height="153" title="Dipole diagram" width="200" /></a></div></h2>0.46m length of wire connected to the braid of the coax, so they now form a 92 cm (3 foot) antenna. <br />Range doubled to 7 nm.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3j0ENcQ9ica8XF9ISssCQr17WEjEweTtKBOFuR0OM1MOAd1Hj22IzU57jLWqn5fJeyd_SLcrwFKo9a6PumJLmtsHOf9JE3CwFETXNm9ReP17fvdQcJ3KWMdtd69i5WF7MbTVZQWAkhxE/s1600/02+dipole+map.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Dipole, AIS, antenna, RTL-SDR, Software Defined Radio, 820T, testing, review, DIY guide" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3j0ENcQ9ica8XF9ISssCQr17WEjEweTtKBOFuR0OM1MOAd1Hj22IzU57jLWqn5fJeyd_SLcrwFKo9a6PumJLmtsHOf9JE3CwFETXNm9ReP17fvdQcJ3KWMdtd69i5WF7MbTVZQWAkhxE/s400/02+dipole+map.jpg" height="96" title="Dipole results on a Map" width="400" /></a></div><br /><br /><h2>Monopole + 2 Radials<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIgAOk2-p78sR4Q4P_EXvQv1KfnnUU746wKuHShvZJVHWiOo1nQ15V7b7viUQlhfbkc5SAQxMu6Lme9tVtU2FImsxPbOqGuHMq9fMZltFR7WfjOAnu2oVuKSM2FOEh0sossCfgUACjCZw/s1600/03+monopole+2+radials+diagram.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="AIS, antenna, RTL-SDR, Software Defined Radio, 820T, testing, review, DIY guide" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIgAOk2-p78sR4Q4P_EXvQv1KfnnUU746wKuHShvZJVHWiOo1nQ15V7b7viUQlhfbkc5SAQxMu6Lme9tVtU2FImsxPbOqGuHMq9fMZltFR7WfjOAnu2oVuKSM2FOEh0sossCfgUACjCZw/s200/03+monopole+2+radials+diagram.jpg" height="153" title="Monopole + 2 Radials Diagram" width="200" /></a></div></h2><h2></h2>The center wire of the coax cable is connected to a 46cm wire, then two more wires are added, each 45 degrees down from horizontal / 45 degrees up from vertical.<br />Radials are wires connected to the braid. Braid are wires circling the hard center wire, when you cut up a coax cable this is the first you meet below the plastic shell.<br />The antenna looks like a Mercedes sign, or a peace symbol without the circle. All wires are quarter-wave, 46 cm long. The up part is the center wire, the wires connected to the braid are the two wires going down left and right.<br />Dramatic improvement over a dipole, signal strength up, noise down, maximum range 21 nautical miles, 100% valid signal ratio. Picked up 3 vessels in port 8.27 nautical miles away (line of sight over the city centre, LOTS of electrical interferece) and a ship 21 nautical miles away.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj5bvSqoX6HfnO7wA8CuPOcXft-qt2hkdSGgPSeRNX3jwo-smJDn3e-_eZQo16-veN-pzjQWqPWXINWU0pWX861LQhAsJ_Xj10UQrbW0cSJAZRUnSqLcjAuR8-xd4ugZJjLD9BVboks84/s1600/03+discone+2+radials+plotted.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="AIS, antenna, RTL-SDR, Software Defined Radio, 820T, testing, review, DIY guide" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj5bvSqoX6HfnO7wA8CuPOcXft-qt2hkdSGgPSeRNX3jwo-smJDn3e-_eZQo16-veN-pzjQWqPWXINWU0pWX861LQhAsJ_Xj10UQrbW0cSJAZRUnSqLcjAuR8-xd4ugZJjLD9BVboks84/s400/03+discone+2+radials+plotted.jpg" height="166" title="Monopole 2 Radials AIS targets" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhla1O1NN_fMSgQ_V-4YQd5Zupw8iv7MWD5Pe0TGaRsKtKEq4S96ep4RWoA6hIzu3U483yIhkAs7l0FaUaC0RqM0ZhYtsqZI8VbhI-xchZ4HhnyHFu0rcd4kZryA5WOWWFIAepIOa8jyfQ/s1600/03+discone+2+radials+shipplotter.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhla1O1NN_fMSgQ_V-4YQd5Zupw8iv7MWD5Pe0TGaRsKtKEq4S96ep4RWoA6hIzu3U483yIhkAs7l0FaUaC0RqM0ZhYtsqZI8VbhI-xchZ4HhnyHFu0rcd4kZryA5WOWWFIAepIOa8jyfQ/s400/03+discone+2+radials+shipplotter.jpg" height="101" width="400" /></a></div><br /><h2>Monopole + 4 Radials</h2>Two more pieces of wire added, so four wires stick out 45 degrees from horizontal, each spaced 90 degrees when viewed from the top. Wires point like North, East, South and West when looked from above, with the receiving element at the center of the compass rose.<br />Maximum range 19 nm, less targets received than monopole + 2 radials.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_p7kzh9aTMFE4m0G9x4rCfqp3kLU6PZj-eqbpCVOJONGKPjUrJAFb168D0_eglizJ9rje47OQHTqHWIhc4Qvo4IJU4wRG4qyXdEOnGO9S9YaRGRG04XtA8uqLkfQD3gxmZGFMk2LAYtE/s1600/04+discone+4+radials+shipplotter.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="AIS, antenna, RTL-SDR, Software Defined Radio, 820T, testing, review, DIY guide" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_p7kzh9aTMFE4m0G9x4rCfqp3kLU6PZj-eqbpCVOJONGKPjUrJAFb168D0_eglizJ9rje47OQHTqHWIhc4Qvo4IJU4wRG4qyXdEOnGO9S9YaRGRG04XtA8uqLkfQD3gxmZGFMk2LAYtE/s400/04+discone+4+radials+shipplotter.jpg" height="88" title="Monopole 4 radials" width="400" /></a></div><br /><br /><h2>Coax Collinear (two pieces of coax connected the wrong way)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmki2ULx1FrYIM5FIp2L_gvs9X-HJKSZrzzVSwrVVPuNwD46JPygsB42OEk5NSSM-SVli7tkhvJk1x0DjBWHle5i9j_4JheuClKqW1GpDXqSrFkWRSU4O7TZE3db5nSW2mW0L5EP2WnsU/s1600/Coax+collinear+diagram.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="AIS, antenna, RTL-SDR, Software Defined Radio, 820T, testing, review, DIY guide" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmki2ULx1FrYIM5FIp2L_gvs9X-HJKSZrzzVSwrVVPuNwD46JPygsB42OEk5NSSM-SVli7tkhvJk1x0DjBWHle5i9j_4JheuClKqW1GpDXqSrFkWRSU4O7TZE3db5nSW2mW0L5EP2WnsU/s200/Coax+collinear+diagram.jpg" height="200" title="Coax collinear Diagram" width="52" /></a></div></h2>See detailed construction instructions in the <a href="http://sdrformariners.blogspot.ie/2013/07/sdr-rtl-hardware-guide-for-ais.html" target="_blank">hardware guide</a>. <br />Gave a maximum range of 16 nautical miles with a container ship passing out at sea, but picked up less targets inside the harbor. <br />This might be a good backup / secondary antenna as extremely easy to make, can be coiled up for transport.<br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDwXBh8gfUWWfqnP1vLCTX8XdyJGCTKxBZga8nQILlhh_UrIWDGNY-zZ0DWqaa-Oyy3x0kH8-uA8LATiRqgWoaPwyiTvf7VWoggrHOgeRk2zupwZ1BHZrJ0VKU0LSkGiuKVNRFaNcFqYA/s1600/05+coax+collinear.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img alt="AIS, antenna, RTL-SDR, Software Defined Radio, 820T, testing, review, DIY guide" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDwXBh8gfUWWfqnP1vLCTX8XdyJGCTKxBZga8nQILlhh_UrIWDGNY-zZ0DWqaa-Oyy3x0kH8-uA8LATiRqgWoaPwyiTvf7VWoggrHOgeRk2zupwZ1BHZrJ0VKU0LSkGiuKVNRFaNcFqYA/s400/05+coax+collinear.jpg" height="46" title="Coax collinear AIS Targets" width="400" /></a><br /><br /><br /><h2>Rubber Ducky Antenna<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgET_4jtZcaBFJum25zan9t91xvKnyHZ9N7YggWomZ2FEnSv8u6LPlpdpFlvEzw6OO7MKf-c7pqmVoNB0ozec1MN94_VM7mWf0c-PEHYlhuymQhnYwiS8kkCyQcWEwVNa7jeS0ntvOK6nI/s1600/Uniden+Rubber+Ducky.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="AIS, antenna, RTL-SDR, Software Defined Radio, 820T, testing, review, DIY guide" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgET_4jtZcaBFJum25zan9t91xvKnyHZ9N7YggWomZ2FEnSv8u6LPlpdpFlvEzw6OO7MKf-c7pqmVoNB0ozec1MN94_VM7mWf0c-PEHYlhuymQhnYwiS8kkCyQcWEwVNa7jeS0ntvOK6nI/s200/Uniden+Rubber+Ducky.JPG" height="200" title="Uniden Rubber Ducky" width="78" /></a></div></h2>Your handheld VHF probably has a similar antenna, this was from a radio scanner. Picked up, then lost Navaids and passing vessels, with 24 percent of signal error not the best here. <br />Usable if you have to.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH1Uq43z_k8032a5u5EO7Np9bnJv5MIUdz0yvXbX3ykUL1vPEKXaLvIF-qfLSK6tn9xG99d7XwDQ2BOnWJ11JZ8eskBIheeHlqK4ginJ3gOqqSz6L0dqCp3-uKoiGcQfvPr_HJ58k88y8/s1600/06+rubber+duckie+shipplotter+aismon+74+26+perf.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img alt="AIS, antenna, RTL-SDR, Software Defined Radio, 820T, testing, review, DIY guide" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH1Uq43z_k8032a5u5EO7Np9bnJv5MIUdz0yvXbX3ykUL1vPEKXaLvIF-qfLSK6tn9xG99d7XwDQ2BOnWJ11JZ8eskBIheeHlqK4ginJ3gOqqSz6L0dqCp3-uKoiGcQfvPr_HJ58k88y8/s400/06+rubber+duckie+shipplotter+aismon+74+26+perf.jpg" height="45" title="Rubber Ducky AIS targets" width="400" /></a><br /><br /><h2>Conclusion</h2>Three 46 cm wires arranged as a peace-sign / Mercedes emblem offers the best value for money. Existing antennas, whether a rubber ducky, VHF whip or a scanner antenna will work with strong signals, for example a commercial ship within 2-3 miles.<br />Larger / more expensive antennas and equipment will increase your reception range - but the question remains: 10-20 times the cost for a slight increase in range?<br /><br /><h2>Read more:</h2><br />Monopole Antenna Wikipedia at: <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monopole_antenna">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monopole_antenna</a><br />Dipole Antenna Wikipedia at: <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dipole_antenna">https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dipole_antenna</a><br />Line of sight Wikipedia at: <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Line-of-sight_propagation">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Line-of-sight_propagation</a><br />Antenna Comparison Charts - note lengths of antennas: <a href="http://vtronix-antennas.com/antennachart.asp">http://vtronix-antennas.com/antennachart.asp</a><br /><br /><h3>Read even more...</h3><br /><u>... <a href="http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HCIPSQY" target="_blank">go to Amazon and buy my book</a>. </u> Tips and tricks in the book will save time and money, reduce frustration with computer settings and help you build the best antenna system from shortwave to microwave. Detailed and illustrated step-by-step descriptions on easy-to-do antennas, from shortwave to microwave.<br />Basically all you need to know <u>to enjoy radio.</u><br /><br /><br /><br />Akoshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04062652939032964739noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4253307684293817917.post-47785523625103739372013-07-30T05:05:00.000-07:002016-02-25T14:42:49.532-08:00Hardware Guide for AIS reception <meta content='3;URL=http://rtlsdr4everyone.blogspot.com/p/blog-page.html ' http-equiv='refresh'/>
<h2><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">What is Software Defined Radio / RTL-SDR?</span></h2><br /><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">In Software Defined Radio your computer is doing the hard work; an RTL-SDR is a small TV-tuner stick, which you can use to receive signals between 50 MHz and 1700 MHz. </span><br /><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">MHz is the number you see on your car radio, it is the frequency of the signal. When you listen to Radio 96FM you are “tuning” to 96 million Hertz (M is million). <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">You can use the stick for AIS reception, weather satellite reception, scanning marine channels, local music radio and many other uses. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><h3><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">What is AIS?</span></h3><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">AIS tells the world the vessel’s name, where they are, where they’re going (destination), speed, heading (which direction they’re going) and a few extra info. More and more targets of interest are also equipped, e.g. buoys. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">If you have an AIS transmitter, big commercial ships see you from about 15-20 miles as a green triangle on their radar screen, even if you do not show up on radar. It is good for them (they can go around you) and good for you (they don’t hit you). <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTL2UYwOZpYuEYY0K5rHgG0zadcFzbV-eL8nX3kbeaIBb_BzTsM24HKlnqFka0reIewBl2wb46vK2I0nxGsQ0e9uN_apAGF4d6nBURa6W__HVmw2Tum2JzKiDEJQ2bJBp5wP3InBWwq7o/s1600/AIS+Colliner+Cork.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="AIS, antenna, RTL-SDR, Software Defined Radio, 820T, testing, review, DIY guide" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTL2UYwOZpYuEYY0K5rHgG0zadcFzbV-eL8nX3kbeaIBb_BzTsM24HKlnqFka0reIewBl2wb46vK2I0nxGsQ0e9uN_apAGF4d6nBURa6W__HVmw2Tum2JzKiDEJQ2bJBp5wP3InBWwq7o/s640/AIS+Colliner+Cork.jpg" height="52" title="AIS information, Port of Cork, RTL-SDR with Coax collinear antenna" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">AIS information, Port of Cork, RTL-SDR and Coax Collinear antenna</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><h3><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">How does it work?</span></h3><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">AIS transmitters sends out a signal 161.975 MHz and/or 162.025 Mhz; this signal is digital so if you listen you only hear a small blip. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Your existing antenna for VHF can receive this signal, but it is easier / cheaper than a splitter to build a dedicated AIS antenna.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">From your antenna, cable brings the signal into your RTL stick. This eats the analogue signal from the antenna, chews it so it becomes digital, and gives it to the laptop for processing. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">A software called SDRSharp shows you the received signal, then sends it to a free software called AISMon, which shows you ships' data or forwards it to your chart plotter software. It can also send this data to your navigation instruments e.g. Chart plotter.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">All software used are free, but basic. Alternatively, you can buy Shipplotter with more features, which is reasonably priced at 25 euros.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"> <o:p></o:p></span></div><h3><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">What you need</span></h3><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">1. Computer / Laptop<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">2. USB cable and RTL Stick<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">3. Antenna adaptors<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">4. Coaxial cable<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">5. Antenna<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">6. (Optional) Items to reduce radio interference / noise<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">If you wish to get a ready-made package, do not want to make an antenna or interested in radio scanning, get the following items:<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">- RTL-SDR stick<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">- MCX-SMA adaptor<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">- SMA-BNC adaptor<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">- Scanning antenna<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">This is enough to receive AIS and marine channels, plus basically all frequencies, all modes between 30 and 1100 Mhz. About 50 euros total.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><h4><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">1. Computer / Laptop</span></h4><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">It can be a laptop or a desktop, all it needs is an USB port. For example, I tested all equipment and software on a 7-year old Dell laptop with Windows 7 - all works fine. </span><br /><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">On my main laptop the fully functioning setup uses around 1 GB Ram with 7-10 % processor usage. If you bought your laptop in the last 3-4 years, chances are all software will run smoothly. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">The word “laptop” is used as most likely you will have one. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><h4><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">2. RTL – SDR Stick (RTL2832U & R820T Tuner)</span></h4><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">The RTL stick puts the signal into your computer using your USB port. The one you need is the R820T tuner, from Nooelec. Other sellers on Ebay also sell it, the Nooelec version has extra protection (= read Safety). It is 2-3 dollars more expensive. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">- You need this: Newsky TV28T v2 USB DVB-T & RTL-SDR Receiver, RTL2832U & R820T Tuner, MCX Input.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">- The company is called Nooelec, and they will help you if you have problems. Delivery to Ireland took 8 working days. Jeff is the name of the problem-solving guy.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">- An USB extension cable, so the stick is away from your computer. A one-metre one is OK, but use less than 2 metres. It is recommended, everything will work better with it. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><h4><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">3. Antenna Adaptors / Cable ends</span></h4><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Adaptors connect the dongle, cables and the antenna to each other. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">If you want to disconnect the antenna you will need adaptors. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">You can meet the following types:<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><b>MCX:</b> This is the one used on the dongle. You push it in. If you have no adaptor you can cut the small antenna cable you have with the stick, and splice it into your antenna cable – see below.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmsAr9ZOVmWVh9_FBWaewSNStpb1Q6CUgYoHZX3QiwADe4BYo2FDTEW63p-lBEblB9ul-ln0I1-e-gpPDMdbq9GBT0tj60qkLQrESWipyniB65veQ90ZEvE6i3oRErPKr4kWnphnmwSf8/s1600/Connector+MCX.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="AIS, antenna, RTL-SDR, Software Defined Radio, 820T, testing, review, DIY guide" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmsAr9ZOVmWVh9_FBWaewSNStpb1Q6CUgYoHZX3QiwADe4BYo2FDTEW63p-lBEblB9ul-ln0I1-e-gpPDMdbq9GBT0tj60qkLQrESWipyniB65veQ90ZEvE6i3oRErPKr4kWnphnmwSf8/s320/Connector+MCX.jpg" height="153" title="MCX Connector" width="320" /></a></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"> <o:p></o:p></span><br /><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><b>BNC: </b>Bayonet type, ready-made scanner antennas use this. You push, then turn this. CCTV also uses this, so if you have a wholesale / electrical shop in town they might have them.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbvG2axyKN3E_xlNfoXw-DI1Hoch0qt5_wZlXhapgnJuiejtJFYkpEd_1sCME0S8M9gO3Ft9DztdvWXw7Fq9x3r3F3Ed6teaU4ZsmAmZErdvV9Sj-qnitjbcOJBeKrAF1HCkRDwWwiU_U/s1600/ConnectorBNC.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="AIS, antenna, RTL-SDR, Software Defined Radio, 820T, testing, review, DIY guide" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbvG2axyKN3E_xlNfoXw-DI1Hoch0qt5_wZlXhapgnJuiejtJFYkpEd_1sCME0S8M9gO3Ft9DztdvWXw7Fq9x3r3F3Ed6teaU4ZsmAmZErdvV9Sj-qnitjbcOJBeKrAF1HCkRDwWwiU_U/s320/ConnectorBNC.jpg" height="166" title="BNC Connector" width="320" /></a></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"> <o:p></o:p></span><br /><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><b>F-type:</b> Screw-type, used for satellite TV, UPC/Sky modem connectors. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7Vy4TGNPvmfolFE_nX-RhOEU8TOpqZ2DkvO8MbFmJ35mHfEp-AyERTfjOjvRuj9LWYWe7Je3h39ubmiBdFg27lYRRJn-H6HbJwrnznr6KVXx3fZBIF3NMEtUETPNqiktZCnL0Qi2f-o0/s1600/Connector+F-type.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="AIS, antenna, RTL-SDR, Software Defined Radio, 820T, testing, review, DIY guide" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7Vy4TGNPvmfolFE_nX-RhOEU8TOpqZ2DkvO8MbFmJ35mHfEp-AyERTfjOjvRuj9LWYWe7Je3h39ubmiBdFg27lYRRJn-H6HbJwrnznr6KVXx3fZBIF3NMEtUETPNqiktZCnL0Qi2f-o0/s320/Connector+F-type.jpg" height="182" title="F-Type connector" width="320" /></a></span></div><br /><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><b>SMA:</b> Screw-type, used on marine radios, Icom equipment etc.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk1zdLfFGemPyU3QtYIXtJJxJesHzJRUAS24dQ_eCXcVRfIRdJyTlRgfa-7LZ4tjGyuwYiEaLM7JbnXiu1oYfzjhlsRFwJXWNi44VEgAIFjeh709evUI1GmEnhJmXSdxy75hcWZZikqjA/s1600/Connector+SMA.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="AIS, antenna, RTL-SDR, Software Defined Radio, 820T, testing, review, DIY guide" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk1zdLfFGemPyU3QtYIXtJJxJesHzJRUAS24dQ_eCXcVRfIRdJyTlRgfa-7LZ4tjGyuwYiEaLM7JbnXiu1oYfzjhlsRFwJXWNi44VEgAIFjeh709evUI1GmEnhJmXSdxy75hcWZZikqjA/s320/Connector+SMA.jpg" height="136" title="SMA Connector" width="320" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"> <o:p></o:p></span><br /><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><b>Others (SO-239 and N-type):</b> myriad variations exist, most common are SO-239 and N-type. They are super-sized screw-type connectors. If you can get them, use them. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">BNC and F-Type can be bought everywhere because they are used for CCTV, TV and Satellite installations. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">PAL is not discussed here as it easily comes apart. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><b>Difference between male and female: </b><o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Male: you see wire in the middle inside.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Female: you see a hole, where the wire in male goes into. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><b>Use what you got</b> or available in your area. If you have nothing or you have to, use the following trick:<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">- The stick comes with a small antenna. Cut that it half, so now you have a piece of cable with the small adaptor that goes into the RTL stick on one end.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">- About 7.5 cm/3 inches from the other end (this is the one with no connector) cut the plastic cover along its length.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5fJGXCdybvCErRjpmkNlplpTljh11q_lqtMyuwz7pPjBCQlQ2L3GTVK9AuUlvXd16pkszDLX4x-eKoHK2YBJAemBMPumSeyP1l2SH1_f0kEc-lkBHAZ0bvsxLuj4jcyO_pofMa2c7bzY/s1600/Coax+collinear+make+a+cut.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="AIS, antenna, RTL-SDR, Software Defined Radio, 820T, testing, review, DIY guide" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5fJGXCdybvCErRjpmkNlplpTljh11q_lqtMyuwz7pPjBCQlQ2L3GTVK9AuUlvXd16pkszDLX4x-eKoHK2YBJAemBMPumSeyP1l2SH1_f0kEc-lkBHAZ0bvsxLuj4jcyO_pofMa2c7bzY/s320/Coax+collinear+make+a+cut.jpg" height="140" title="Opening a coax cable" width="320" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><o:p></o:p></span><br /><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">- Take off the plastic outer connector. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">- The small wires you see are called the braid. They surround the center wire, which carries the signal.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn_KzJy5qVTr_YMxH0z_Qp4_NK5LO6vKmepFLlO7W58oXtSpOPU7SO1Yu3GIwiYzjk4usIE8ijsj2JMvHjAH_svfZlhcsgym05vDKMai-AxBAzIWOYA4h0W4oFFoPeJqFWSwd-K0FYToU/s1600/Coax+disassembled.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="AIS, antenna, RTL-SDR, Software Defined Radio, 820T, testing, review, DIY guide" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn_KzJy5qVTr_YMxH0z_Qp4_NK5LO6vKmepFLlO7W58oXtSpOPU7SO1Yu3GIwiYzjk4usIE8ijsj2JMvHjAH_svfZlhcsgym05vDKMai-AxBAzIWOYA4h0W4oFFoPeJqFWSwd-K0FYToU/s320/Coax+disassembled.jpg" height="320" title="Coax cable what is what" width="312" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"> <o:p></o:p></span><br /><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">- Peel back these wires so you can see the center wire (it is inside a plastic tube)<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">- Twist the braid together. Do this on paper so little bits can be cleaned up easily.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEt7Rrtjat5s61aAFqEkfXASX55JJGHe3BUNhTp9lRh5jvLmkhVxOvry5PkEAmeasXzoBol_kh6NrLvur1jDVS6QWY4tzH9bf1tzAl7nWZ_u83NCZd59Ue_Bhr22dWa9qrCosQPD4iNKM/s1600/Coax+collinear+prepared+for+twisting.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="AIS, antenna, RTL-SDR, Software Defined Radio, 820T, testing, review, DIY guide" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEt7Rrtjat5s61aAFqEkfXASX55JJGHe3BUNhTp9lRh5jvLmkhVxOvry5PkEAmeasXzoBol_kh6NrLvur1jDVS6QWY4tzH9bf1tzAl7nWZ_u83NCZd59Ue_Bhr22dWa9qrCosQPD4iNKM/s320/Coax+collinear+prepared+for+twisting.jpg" height="182" title="Coax separating center and braid" width="320" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"> <o:p></o:p></span><br /><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">- Next, cut the plastic surrounding the center wire with knife very gently, so you can pull this plastic sleeve down. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">- Now you have the braid and the center wire. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">- Do this with the coax going to your antenna too, it is similar but with more braid and thicker center wire. Pictures are of a coax here.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">- Connect the braid to the braid and the center to the center.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9x3HRCIL3e1elLoMonaHhmg5fgPBgtjeUXJiD366yZzshT-TInDWvBnIjJ2rrIEFKuliEDLOL5C5lXASTsutmHty4r6-y780avR_TZJe9LFIQDh1fjRZDmDmYf3U5-mZxwImcVFyo8tQ/s1600/coax+connecting+two+cables.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="AIS, antenna, RTL-SDR, Software Defined Radio, 820T, testing, review, DIY guide" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9x3HRCIL3e1elLoMonaHhmg5fgPBgtjeUXJiD366yZzshT-TInDWvBnIjJ2rrIEFKuliEDLOL5C5lXASTsutmHty4r6-y780avR_TZJe9LFIQDh1fjRZDmDmYf3U5-mZxwImcVFyo8tQ/s320/coax+connecting+two+cables.jpg" height="262" title="Joining coax cables" width="320" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"> <o:p></o:p></span><br /><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">- Twist them together.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">- Be careful so that the center and the braid so not touch each other.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">- Electrical tape them separately.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"></div><h4><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">3. Cables (called coaxial cables or coax)</span></h4><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxMWT3mxm-shxfydysyVoHssHEfrqA7CE3FMaSfXSElTrop6JfsSrhzJ6Bck4DAU-rjWj55lQPHzUnIM9lVoOI6M-tj_oZJoIsAYxUNiWzChiH4CWNXkHbS1VRnMqyDUI01T4JydvMj-Q/s1600/coax+markings.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="AIS, antenna, RTL-SDR, Software Defined Radio, 820T, testing, review, DIY guide" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxMWT3mxm-shxfydysyVoHssHEfrqA7CE3FMaSfXSElTrop6JfsSrhzJ6Bck4DAU-rjWj55lQPHzUnIM9lVoOI6M-tj_oZJoIsAYxUNiWzChiH4CWNXkHbS1VRnMqyDUI01T4JydvMj-Q/s320/coax+markings.jpg" height="72" title="59U coax cable markings" width="320" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><o:p></o:p></span><br /><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><b>Every cable has numbers written on it,</b> like RG 59U, and/or 75 Ohm. You need 75 Ohm cable to connect antennas to the stick – luckily, satellite and TV cable is fine. Unless you ask specifically for radio cable you will probably get 75 Ohm cable, called RG59.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><b>If the area you’re in has TV you can buy coax cable somewhere.</b> 10 metres/30 foot works out to around 10 - 15 euros, but shops also sell it by the metre. Electrical wholesalers are the cheapest. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><b>The Ohm thing:</b> the resistance of the cable. Try to use 75 Ohm. Scanner antennas, your marine radio and handheld VHF antennas are also 50 Ohm – they work with the stick. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Thicker cable with better shielding/less signal loss is more expensive, and normally used for long cable runs e.g. mast-mounted antennas. If you mount the AIS antenna somewhere around your cockpit it is unlikely you’ll see any difference between 1 and 10 euro cable.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrJmZl3mBhJdaGyQSWY-VG6kfwrkyURAdAa2IvxmRZY38YZalx6KHEomZdvHbp0dmo7PCTL5Q2IJRthUY5DUgaryp135fi-ibgeTm6BbID-Oxp6ZCY8LJyvk4kbGMAA1NC3AJmb3KjXyo/s1600/Coax+types.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="AIS, antenna, RTL-SDR, Software Defined Radio, 820T, testing, review, DIY guide" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrJmZl3mBhJdaGyQSWY-VG6kfwrkyURAdAa2IvxmRZY38YZalx6KHEomZdvHbp0dmo7PCTL5Q2IJRthUY5DUgaryp135fi-ibgeTm6BbID-Oxp6ZCY8LJyvk4kbGMAA1NC3AJmb3KjXyo/s320/Coax+types.jpg" height="304" title="Coax types" width="320" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"> <o:p></o:p></span><br /><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Do not lose sleep over cable; use what you can afford or get locally. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><h4><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">4. Antennas / Aerials</span></h4><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">NOTE: It is THEORETICALLY possible to transmit with these antennas – I only tested them for reception. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><b>The antenna receives the signal from the AIS station.</b> Your “marine antenna” at the top of your mast is designed to operate between 156 and 162 Mhz, AIS is around 162 Mhz. Your VHF Aerial works fine for AIS, with a splitter, but the splitter costs more than a dedicated AIS antenna. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Testing done 1 nm from the nearest commercial port and 2.5nm from the local VTS, in both cases buildings/trees/power cables in the way, in the heart of a city centre, half a mile from a big transmitter tower, next to a WiFi router. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><b>If an antenna works here, </b>it will work out at sea as there are less electrical noise and less signal loss due to buildings.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><h4><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">DIY / Homemade AIS Antennas - few tips:</span></h4><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">- <b>Use a blunt knife,</b> so you will not cut into the center wire.</span><br /><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">- <b>Place a paper</b> under the cable you’re working on, this catches the small copper wires.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">- <b>Mark lengths with tape</b>. This keeps the coax together and provides a reference point. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">- <b>Only a knife and (electrical) tape is required</b> for construction; permanent installations need more attention, but the above is enough to make a working antenna. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">- <b> If you have no tape measure, </b>an A4 page is 210x297mm. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=3080779588006146564" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=3080779588006146564" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div><h4><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Collinear Coax AIS antenna - Recommended <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div></span></h4><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEt5M6tPvkaWov05VjgyiJUnDBQu4cJovNiER2vN_v1PijSv7Fp6yVn_3ivxSHEyGhk5rg6rngRPl1cLDmWvarAvvgZGUfZiPN49Nm29WE-U4kJ2blC1ivlAgyi0ajVnslslimHMo64IU/s1600/Coax+collinear+diagram.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="AIS, antenna, RTL-SDR, Software Defined Radio, 820T, testing, review, DIY guide" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEt5M6tPvkaWov05VjgyiJUnDBQu4cJovNiER2vN_v1PijSv7Fp6yVn_3ivxSHEyGhk5rg6rngRPl1cLDmWvarAvvgZGUfZiPN49Nm29WE-U4kJ2blC1ivlAgyi0ajVnslslimHMo64IU/s640/Coax+collinear+diagram.jpg" height="640" title="Coax Collinear Diagram" width="172" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEt5M6tPvkaWov05VjgyiJUnDBQu4cJovNiER2vN_v1PijSv7Fp6yVn_3ivxSHEyGhk5rg6rngRPl1cLDmWvarAvvgZGUfZiPN49Nm29WE-U4kJ2blC1ivlAgyi0ajVnslslimHMo64IU/s1600/Coax+collinear+diagram.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=3080779588006146564" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=3080779588006146564" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><b>Length about 120 cm, costs 1 euros,</b> works just as good as an 80 euro discone antenna. The antenna and the RTL stick fits into your pocket for AIS reception anywhere you can bring your laptop with you.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">The best is that you only need to buy enough coax to reach from your laptop to your antenna site, plus 1 metre for the antenna, and you have a working AIS receiver. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><b>The antenna is</b> basically two 61 cm long coax cables, connected the wrong way for the antenna bit (center to braid and braid to center). You need to make four connections, two in the antenna proper and two at the bottom of the antenna to the coax cable you use to bring the signal to the RTL stick. </span><br /><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><b>Twist the connections</b> or use quick connectors; both work. For permanent installations you’re advised to use shrink-wrap (plastic tube that melts with a lighter) or lots of electrical tape. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">As the antenna is flexible you need some form of support: the bottom half of a two-piece fishing rod or a PVC pipe sealed at one end is a permanent solution.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">- <b>Top section</b>: measure 616 mm from end of coax, <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">- Mark with electrical tape, plus about 5 centimetres one end to have enough wire for connections.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">- <b>Bottom section:</b> 616 mm for the antenna, plus enough both ends for connections. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">- Cut the outer plastic cover lengthwise, carefully not to cut the center of the cable. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">- Remove the plastic outer shell.</span><br /><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">- Separate the braid from the center cable.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">- Twist the braid. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">- Cut off enough plastic cover from the center that you can wrap the braid around it. Cut it above the braid end so you can keep them separate.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">- If you bend the center a little bit out from the cable that makes wrapping easier.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4aHaoLD3VIvE9tHNNu7XT3u0S7tWPsiiukrfvkbQzDS5mLnHsIceS_iM0M3HyFsAyVziOGMV1bI6kzilsrfZ8LVc33YusO0q2U3Q4h8Ujha9aV9SE4w32J7uiJ_H81XeCJWxBsvbZMa4/s1600/Coax+collinear+ready+for+twisting+X-shape.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="AIS, antenna, RTL-SDR, Software Defined Radio, 820T, testing, review, DIY guide" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4aHaoLD3VIvE9tHNNu7XT3u0S7tWPsiiukrfvkbQzDS5mLnHsIceS_iM0M3HyFsAyVziOGMV1bI6kzilsrfZ8LVc33YusO0q2U3Q4h8Ujha9aV9SE4w32J7uiJ_H81XeCJWxBsvbZMa4/s320/Coax+collinear+ready+for+twisting+X-shape.jpg" height="320" title="Joining coax cables for coax collinear" width="268" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"> <o:p></o:p></span><br /><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">- Connect braid to center and center to braid.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">- Pay attention for the small wires used in the braid not to be near the center wire.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">- Use electrical tape to insulate the different bits.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><h4><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Copper wire Whip antenna – cost of 1 metre copper wire. </span></h4><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">You need either 1.85m (Full wave), 1.15m (5/8th wave) or 0.925m (half wave) length of copper wire. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">I used a 0.9m piece coax conductor as the actual wire and 4 metres of coax to RTL stick. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">AIS signal from 2 vessels in port and VTS 2.5 nm away comes in strong enough for AISMonitor to work. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><b>Construction: </b><o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"></div><ol><li><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Measure from the end of the coax the required length.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Cut the insulation lengthwise.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Peel off the braid and outer plastic shell, then cut it off. </span></li><li><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Only the centre wire inside the plastic shell remains. </span></li><li><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Connect the other end to the RTL stick, start receiving signals.</span></li></ol><div><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div><br /><h4><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Centre-loaded Magnetic Antenna</span></h4><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><b>I’m talking about this:</b> <a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/SCAN-MOBILE-MAGNETIC-ANTENNA-FOR-SCANNERS-25-1300MHz-/320892331099?pt=UK_ConsumerElectronics_SpecialistRadioEquipment_SM&hash=item4ab6ac645b" target="_blank">Scan Mobile MagneticAntenna for Scanners 25-1300MHz. </a><o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Works flawlessly; being wide-band means that you can receive from CB radio 30 MHz to Airplane ID signals at 1090Mhz. An antenna for 90% of the signals you want to receive, stealthy. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Being a ready-made antenna it comes with a BNC connector. Connect to RTL stick with MCX-SMA and SMA-BNC adapters.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div><h4><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Discone antenna</span></h4><div><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><a href="http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=discone&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1311.R1.TR2.TRC1.A0.Xdiscone+antenna&_nkw=discone+antenna&_sacat=0" target="_blank">Looks like a hedgehog</a>, but offers the best sensitivity. Windage might be an issue, other than that it is the best / most expensive option for reception. A bit conspicuous, also a good antenna for terrestrial digital TV reception. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><h3><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">5. (Optional) Eliminating Radio Interference / Noise / Shielding</span></h3><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><h4><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">1. Shielding the RTL Stick – you need aluminium cans</span></h4><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Even without an antenna the stick can receive local music radio stations, so you need some kind of metal around it to block radio waves. Aluminium cans work. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Cut off the ends from an aluminium can (soda can / beer can, the bigger the more material to work with). 3 cans of Coke is enough material. Wrap the stick in several layers of aluminium, leaving the USB connection and the antenna connection free. This significantly improves your signal.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">If cutting up aluminium cans is above your paygrade aluminium enclosure boxes can be bought at most electronic shops. But really, 4-5 layers of metal is more than enough and you can finish the job in 5 minutes.<o:p></o:p></span></div><h4><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">2. Eliminating interference – you need clamp-on ferrites</span></h4><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Electricity escapes around the ends of electrical cables; that is why you have a small cylindrical shape at the end of your laptop charger. That is called a ferrite bead or clamp-on ferrite; costs around 1-3 dollars each. A ferrite bead is a ring, you slide that onto the cable. Clamp-on ferrites open. <o:p></o:p></span><br /><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Put clamp-on ferrites on both ends of cables, the more the better. And I mean all cables ideally, if you have only a few fwrrites, treat power lines first, then radio equipment. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><h4><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">3. Shielding cable and lowering electrical noise </span></h4><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">The cable carrying the signal from your antenna to the RTL stick picks up environmental noise. Even if you buy 10 euros/metre quad-shielded coax cable, chances are you can improve cable shielding and/or the quality of the signal reaching the stick. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">- Mount the stick as close to the antenna as possible. This reduces the amount of coax required. The quality of the signal can be only influence between your antenna and the RTL stick (analog signal), from the stick it is digital (stick sends either 1 or 0). <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">- Try not to have power cables and signal cables next to each other.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">- Coil the coax 4-5 times in a small diameter circle, this helps with noise.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div><h2><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">References and Further Reading</span></h2><div><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">(All open in new window)</span></div><div><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><br /></span></div><h4><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">RTL stick</span></h4><div><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Largest website with many alternative uses and software installation guide is <a href="http://www.rtl-sdr.com/" target="_blank">RTL SDR.com</a>.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Technical details and many more at the <a href="http://sdr.osmocom.org/trac/wiki/rtl-sdr" target="_blank">Osmocom SDR site</a>.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><h4><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">AIS</span></h4><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Read the Wikipedia entry <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automatic_Identification_System" target="_blank">here</a>.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div><h4><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Antennas and cable</span></h4><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><b>Cable characteristics</b> for RG cables are <a href="http://home.swipnet.se/27mhz/rg.html" target="_blank">here</a>. Velocity factor is required from the table if you use different cable for the coax collinear.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><b>Coax Collinear</b> construction tips are <a href="http://www.rason.org/Projects/collant/collant.htm" target="_blank">here</a>. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=3080779588006146564" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=3080779588006146564" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=3080779588006146564" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=3080779588006146564" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><b style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Coax Collinear</b><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> with diagrams are </span><a href="http://www.srgclub.org/CollinearAnt-HomeBrew.html" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;" target="_blank">here</a><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">. Note that radio amateurs use RG-58 (50 Ohm) cable, but the stick needs 75 Ohm. Also, hams (short for radio amateurs) love to solder.</span><br /><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><b>Coax Collinear,</b> with useful technical info and pictures <a href="http://www.balarad.net/" target="_blank">here. </a> That is for 1090 Mhz, concept the same. Very intriguing ideas for static protection and 75/50 Ohm transformer, for those of you wishing to impedance match antenna and equipment. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><b>Frequency calculator</b> is <a href="http://www.csgnetwork.com/freqwavelengthcalc.html" target="_blank">here</a>, if you're into cutting stiff wire into a resonant length. Or divide 300 with Frequency in MHz, get the full wavelength, then decide what antenna you want. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><h2><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Legal Disclaimer and Final Thoughts</span></h2><div class="MsoNormal">Safety at sea is the most important factor taken into consideration in the decision-making process; consequently <b><i>please use the information here with safety in mind.</i></b> </div><div class="MsoNormal">My favourite part of the ColRegs, "or of the neglect of any precaution which may be required by the ordinary practice of seamen" applies here: do not rely on anything, especially information from a single source such as AIS information.<br />The purpose of this blog is to demonstrate the use of a relatively new and inexpensive equipment for marine / yachting purposes; a device designed as a cheap DVB-T tuner will never be equivalent to a professional dual-channel AIS receiver, quad-shielded cable, a quality antenna and professional installation. </div><div class="MsoNormal">A working RTL-AIS system uses a minimum of four physical connections, and runs a minimum of three separate applications under Windows 7. With <i>one</i> component failure it stops. </div><div class="MsoNormal">Ideally, use the info here to see what AIS is all about while bobbing along at anchor, in the safety of a marina. </div><div class="MsoNormal">If you like receiving AIS information, perhaps think that an AIS transmitter might improve the safety of your vessel and your off-watch sleep on passage, buy a professional product and have it installed by a professional. </div><div class="MsoNormal">I am not responsible for the use, misuse or abuse of the information contained in this guide. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"><h3>If you enjoyed this article, or wish to support this blog, </h3><br /><u>... <a href="http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HCIPSQY" target="_blank">go to Amazon and buy my book</a>. </u> Tips and tricks in the book will save time and money, reduce frustration with computer settings and help you build the best antenna system from shortwave to microwave. Detailed and illustrated step-by-step descriptions on easy-to-do antennas, from shortwave to microwave.<br />Basically all you need to know <u>to enjoy radio.</u></div><h2></h2><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><br /></span></div><br /><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div>Akoshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04062652939032964739noreply@blogger.com0